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I think you guys are on the right track here. What I believe is happening is that after you replace a strut rod or any other suspension member which was worn or loose then you have now created a firm or solid joint which was previously absorbing the tire and/or balance imperfection. The new firmer/stiffer suspension components are now directly transferring the load and that's why it's becoming so evident after the suspension work. It's now more critical to have a correct tire balance as any imperfections would be transferred and felt right away. If you feel vibration in the steering wheel then this indicates a poor wheel balance job, however if you feel front end vibration without steering wheel vibration then this could also be caused by an out of round tire or bad belt as nc211 has (Lexus manual calls for checking this, don't have the number handy but I can tell you 3 out of 4 of my Goodyear’s Eagles were out of spec which is causing my problem). Also, I think it's important when replacing a strut bar to inspect the lower ball joint by removing it from the hub, and to inspect the lower and upper control arm bushings. You really need to disconnect the ball joint from the upper control arm and the lower ball joint from the hub to be able to do an accurate inspection. Good luck.

nc211, I'm going to go against everyone's recommendation and tell you stay with what you have. Don't get me wrong I love my 98, but as with any used vehicle you will have to spend time and money "fixin" it up to your standards and correcting some really poor past maintenance repairs. Since you have already paid up and went through this with your 95, I doubt you want to do this again. The main significant gain you will get is the cool Xenon lights (although not all of them have it), and slight power gain. The wood steering wheel on mine is already cracked at 12 different locations (I also have 110K on mine). So if you want to make a significant change, wait till the prices drop and go with a LS430, otherwise I would say it's more trouble then its worth.

Baja, on my 98 I can run any grade fuel, however I've noticed that it runs smoother and it gets better MPG with 93 octane so this actually offset the added cost for me. Lexuslooker, I was also getting MPG in the high 20's range when I first got my car however I quickly realized the reason, my fan clutch was "free spinning" as it had lost it's internal clutch oil! Once I replaced the fan clutch my MPG went down by 2 to 3 MPG especially during the summer when it's engaged most the time. Just something to look for (my temp gauge never went above half despite that!!). Also, regarding MPG, your driving style can really make a big big difference, I tend to cruise at 75 to 80 mph which really eats up the fuel.

nc211, you got me curious about that, as I was not aware of this recall on the 95 model LS (I'm sure it's already been discussed on the forum here but I have yet to search it). Anyway, your absolutely right about the recall and I did manage to get the complete recall information from the NHTSA.gov recall database site, very interesting! This of course proves that no manufacturer is perfect (even Denso who I believe has the industry's lowest defects per million rate). Despite this issue, I would still go with Denso whenever possible. RC_98V016_NN.pdf

I'm actually very disturbed that you would need to replace your starter on 98 model, which is what I have! Under normal usage they should last past 200K as in my previous Lexus. In any case, Denso is OEM supplier for Toyota and is not a lower price option. The OEM components are Japanese made Denso (previously called NipponDenso ND). The ones you get in the states are US made Denso components and sometimes might have minimal variations from the original (air filter element might be colored). To get to the point, if you’re going to go through the trouble of removing the intake manifold to replace the starter on this vehicle then go with the best rebuilt starter you can buy and that would be Denso. I would only go with Bosch if I was intending on selling the vehicle in the real near future!

I've had work done at Sewell of Dallas, no problems there. Now Sewell of Fort Worth was an absolute mess I don't recommend them at all from my two visits there. Then there is Park Place of Plano which does good work but the service was very very poor for the three times I went there, never again! The best repair service and customer service has consistently been at Park Place of Grapevine. I also have used Davenport before and they messed up my front wheel bearing job pretty bad ( the inside steel cap wasn't seated right and water leaked and rusted the bearings within 2 months, also nut reinstalled on upper control arm ball joint was one size too large and was only being held in place by the cotter pin). I have not tried JPimportz. These are just my personal experiences and I should mention that I am very very picky!

Ouch! I would have to say that it would be best to stay with T-IV on this one. The vehicle shifts and operates perfectly fine with this fluid and it is specifically designed for the Aisin transmission so what would you really gain from any alternate synthetic in this case? The trick is to call around and find the cheapest Toyota dealer to buy this from (Leuxs in my area wanted $9 a quart, I got it from a Toyota dealer for $3.50). This to me is just to critical and expensive a component to take a chance on.

Lexuslvr, I really doubt that you have an issue with your belt. I have also once experienced a "rough" cold start where there was significant lifter/clanking noise which went away shortly and has never reoccurred (mine is also a 98 LS and this happened with 97K miles on the odo). My theory is that the oil drain back valve inside the oil filter (this was a Lexus OEM filter with regular 5-30 oil) got stuck and allowed the oil to flow back therefore leading to a "dry" start until the oil started flowing again. I now have 109K miles on my vehicle with the OEM timing belt and water pump! From what I have researched the possibility of timing belt failure on these vehicles is very very rare. In fact it only occurs if your water pump leaks and then seizes. Let us know what you find. By the way on my previous vehicle a GS300, the belt and pump were replaced for the first time at 160K miles and the belt was in excellent condition and the pump was still not leaking!!

I personally would attempt to get them resurfaced first. Rotors on most vehicle makes (German vehicles being the exception) have enough excess in them to allow you to resurface them. As long as the runout (warppage) is not excessive where they cannot completely machine it without hitting the min thickness limit. The root cause of the problem of rotors warping in the first place (assuming there is not a design deficiency) is strongly related to the brake pads. Older model Lexus vehicles which did not use Ceramic compounds would heat up and transfer too much heat to the rotors causing warppage. Therefore, from my experience (this has worked on a Lexus GS300, a Nissan Altima, and a Jeep) is that you should 1) resurface the rotors if possible 2) replace your brake pads with Akebono Ceramic pads ACT or Pro-ACT line (which are now OEM on many Lexus vehicles). These are the best pads out there and they are not like any other ceramic pads. They give you great braking ability, don't heat up like metallic pads, don't produce dust, and will not warp the rotors. Drilled rotors can develop cracks from the drilled holes, slotted rotors are good but it would be much wiser to use the money on better pads then to get expensive rotors. If you do buy new rotors DON'T buy the cheapest ones you can find! In most cases they are made in China and they don't have the same material strength and corrosion resistance that OEM or good aftermarket (like Mountain) will have. Many of the cheaper drilled and slotted rotors on eBay are base model cheap rotors which are drilled and slotted by a local machine shop, be very careful!

This to me sounds like your shocks are worn. This is really the life of the shocks and I would replace them. Tire vibration would either be due to out of round tires which would present itself as body vibration, or out of balance tires which would be felt in the steering at certain speeds. Bad engine mounts will not cause the vehicle to go up and down and would really be noticeable at idle and under certain other conditions at slower speeds. At this mileage and with the temperatures you have in Saudi I would definitely also replace the engine and trans mounts. My 98 LS with 110K has torn mounts and I operate at slower speeds and lower temperature then you.

Let me give my two cents worth on this. You can play it safe and stick with OEM which I myself might end up doing next week. Or you can go aftermarket with the CMX ceramics that gojo went with which I believe are made for NAPA by either Sumitomo or Akebono. Those are excellent pads which are either equal to or better then OEM. Not all pads are the same and just because they are ceramic does not make them equal. The industry standard for brake performance is now set by a brake coefficient measure (how well the brake grabs or stops you). There are two letters, the first notes the cold "braking" ability and the second the hot. This document is provided by the Society of Automotive Engineers with doc number SAE J866. Basically, to keep from writing to much on this, the Akebono ceramic pads (either ACT or Pro ACT) are excellent and will provide excellent braking, very very little dust, and will last a very long time, and the don't warp rotors easily (they are probably the most advanced ceramic compound available). EBC green stuff I have not tried but they did have initial quality issues with the pad liner debonding from the backing plate which has made me avoid them.

Read the Lexus manual and you'll see that the only thing you actually need (if your not towing or in harsh environment) is the brake fluid flush, coolant flush, and oil change. Eveything else per Lexus is a visual inspection which you can do yourself. I would ask them to perform those items only and if possible go somehwere these guys have to be the most expensive Lexus dealer in the country!

Jacob, you might just want to go with the OEM from the dealer. This roar noise you hear is normal during startup and should go away within 20 seconds. Let the engine warm up and it will go away. I think the OEM does perform better and has less resistance and noise during normal operation.

From Autozone!! Only a few things I would buy from there and they would not be critical components (even if they do give you a lifetime warranty). A properly working fan clutch will have resistance when the vehicle is cold but you should be able to turn by hand. If it feels like it's engaged then yes it has failed and you need to get one from a different place. There are two failure modes for clutch fans, it either locks up and is always engaged, or the the internal oil leaks out and it spins freely all the time (happened in my case). I got a good one for $50 from O'reilly auto which is made by Hayden (also sold at NAPA) and it works very well. Your other option is a Shimahide Japaness sold online ($70), an NPW also Jap ($120), or OEM made by Aisin for $150.

I also use synthetic for my engine, however when it comes to diff's my personal experience is to stick with standard lubricant 80-90. The lower viscosity of the synthetic will give you a louder gear noise. I have had to replace diff bearings on two different vehicles shortly after switching (30K miles) to synthetic Mobil gear fluid. Use synthetic only if it's called out from the factory as some vehicles now have. Yes, very easy drain and fill and you don't really have to replace the washers they can be reused several times without any leaks. Torque the allen bolts to 39 ft-lbs.

Sorry I got this car confused with my Maxima, RX in NC is correct this vehicle does not have any idler or tensioner pulleys. Regardless though, I still think that you have a bearing noise. It's very likly the A/C pulley but just to be sure, spray the belts with a silicon spray and see if the noise goes away.

That's correct it doesn't have an automatic tensioner but it does have a tensioner pulley which is manually adjusted and the bearing on this pulley will wear and make the noted noise.

I'm not 100 positive but P1133 is code for bank 1 O2 sensor which would be the one near the radiator. You need to know for sure which one is causing the code and replace it, I don't think it's the one behind the fire wall that is considered bank 2. Second, a recommendation for everyone out there, NEVER use aftermarket O2 sensors especially on Jap cars. The OEM sensors should be Denso and I highly recommend that you don't use Bosch as I have done this myself only to find the check engine light coming back. The outputs are not exactly the same as the OEM sensor and the computer doesn't like it. If you do it yourself you could buy them from www.oxygensensors.com or many other sites which carry OEM Denso sensors.

jgr7 is correct, you will over tighten the lug nuts if you lubricate them with ANYTHING at all. You must compensate the torque value by reducing it by 15% (from what I've read on this subject). The only approved lubricant I've seen is the one that McGard calls out which is greaseless oil LPS-1 (they sell it at ACE). There are however many people that I know of that have used anti-seize (for over 20 yr) without ever having a lug nut come loose.

This sound is neither the belts nor the alternator. This is typcial drive belt idler and tensioner pulley bearings. If you remove the drive belt and turn the pulley by hand you will clearly feel it being unsmooth and a bit loose when turning.

Any indication of a sticking caliper is not good, even if it's stuck in the retracted position. Personally I would do as dcfish has recommended, the complete tune up on this vehicle in addition to replacing all four calipers. Rebuilt calipers are not too expensive and given the age of the vehicle (and abuse) it would be cheap insurance and very likely the cause of your problem. Also while your at it check the brake master cylinder for signs of a brake fluid leak.

Visually inspect each brake rotor for signs of discoloration (blue) as a sign of a sticking caliper or calipers (if more then one rotor shows this then you have a bad brake master cylinder). Also, lift the back end of the vehicle and try to turn the wheels, hopefully the emergency brake is not misadjusted and grabbing. If nothing there then I would start to look at possible catalytic converter problem. Hit the converter lightly with a mallet and see if sounds like a can with "rocks" in it. If it does then your cat is shot!

Check the basics first, has the fuel filter been replaced in the last 30K miles? Check the fuel pressure regulator with a Mity Vac type pump and also inspect the vacuum line going to it for signs of cracking or being loose at the ends. There is the possibility of a fuel pump issue (although very unlikely). I don't think there is anything wrong with the battery however if your lights are dimming so much during cranking then this would indicate another issue related to the starter, it's drawing too much current which means it will soon need repalcement. Again I think your lack of power is related to a clogged fuel filter. With regards to your concern that it's not charging, I would recommend that you remove the alternator and have it checked at a dependable shop (I prefer NAPA) and don't just go to one shop, have it checked at several shops as they tend to be inconsistent.