alsalih

TexLexus, this most likely is your drive belt idler or tensioner pulley as nc211 noted. Don't go to dealer yet!!

Just to give you guys an idea, today I decided to open the left side cam pulley cover on my 98 LS which has 112K miles, to check the condition of the timing belt as it is still the original. Of course given that it is an interference engine I'm not too comfortable not replacing it yet at the same time I don't have the time to replace it myself nor do I want to spend over $1K to have the dealer do it. In any case, I was able to get to the top of the belt and there were small fine cracks in it. I couldn't see the teeth so I don't know what condition they're in. Although many of you will not agree with me, I'm going to leave it for now as I think I can safely get another 10K miles from it. All the instances of timing belt failures that I have heard of occurred during start up especially when the weather is cold and the engine oil is thick. Despite the fact that several of the broken timing belts were on interference engines, in none of the instances was any valve damage done.

914lps, I didn't realize that! That's all I hear people in Texas call them, now I know where it came from, thanks for the info. By the way, the free shipping is for any order over $50 from drivewire not $75.

norcallexus, this is a great site and I have ordered from them however be careful with what your buying. The filter you noted for $2.71 is an OEM replacement and NOT an OEM filter. The one that is actually OEM is the one for $5.05 made by Denso. This is the OEM supplier and it even comes from the same plant in Thailand (don't worry it's a Jap company they just make them there). I have used the OEM alternate without any problems however given that I do oil changes at 10K mile intervals I now only go with original Jap made filters which I get from www.autohausaz.com

Why keep guessing? If you have a CEL indication then the computer has a fault code stored. I would take it to Autozone (or somewhere similar in your area) and have them pull the code for you (for free). Then go from there.

From my experience when a vehicle dies as you described and then will work after you let it sit, this is usually related to a faulty fuel pump or one that is going out. This difficult to diagnose because as you describe it's intermittent, however it will get progressively more common.

Yeah actually there have been other threads about this exact issue. The problem in my opinion is still the alternator. The voltage regulator inside is not working right, however it does not affect the output voltage and as such when they check the alternator it will show the correct output.

I think you hit it right on Monarch, you mentioned the word Autozone!! I've said this before and I'll say it again, be very very careful what you buy from autozone as they sell the poorest quality rebuilds around (which is also evident with their rock bottom prices). I'm sure there are many out there that have had no problem with a rebuilt unit from this place, but if you do some research (or try it out yourself) you will find that they have the highest failure and return rates on their rebuilt parts. Yes, they do offer a lifetime warranty but that's very misleading. I'm going to bet on this one that your autozone PS pump was the culprit.

I'm assuming that you had the front wheels off the ground and turned the steering wheel to bleed the system before you drove it? It appears that you need to bleed the system by turning the wheel with the front of the vehicle lifted. You will also likely need to add more fluid to it.

If both front brakes are not releasing then this would most likely indicate a brake master cylinder problem. If it's specific to one side then I would consider replacing the caliper and brake hose on that side. Although a stuck slider pin will cause uneven pad wear and warp the rotor it would not normally lead to the condition your describing.

This sounds exactly like an alternator going bad, specifically the voltage regulator inside of it. You’re probably running on the battery reserve so I wouldn't go too far with the vehicle.

Sounds like a bad brake light switch, located behind the brake pedal. It's a simple contact switch which triggers the brake lights once the pedal is pushed.

Craftsman is a great choice, however regradless of what brand you buy make sure it has EVERY metric size with the set! I've been burned too many times with sets that leave out the 18mm metric or 12 metric based on someones assumption that these sizes are not normally used, well they are.

SKperfromance, I don't have any rust on mine in this area or any area for that matter (98 LS with 111K miles). I'm not sure if I would say this is a design weakness. Corrosion is a factor based upon location (how close you are to ocean), temperature, and contaminants. In your case I believe you have contamination as you noted from the road salt which has become the catalyst. I would definitely do a close inspection once or twice a year on your car and in locations such as this seal area I would remove the seal, clean and inspect for corrosion, and if none is found you might want to consider placing a bead of RTV silicon before reinstalling the seal as preventive maintenance.

Remove #10 and inspect it off the vehicle before replacing it. With regards to the possible tire issue I would lift the car and spin the tire and see if it has a wobble or is out of round. The service manual has procedures for checking out of round tires using a dial indicator). I know that feeling you get when you can't get something resolved and you just want to sell the vehicle. Despite the reliability of the LS400 it's not immune from leaks, break downs, and problems (just hopefully less so then other vehicles). If you’re able to diagnose and repair these issues as they arise or if you can afford to take the vehicle to the dealer then this really is one nice ride. If you get burned out from "always" having to fix something then maybe it is time to go buy a new Camry.

It doesn't really make sense but that's the way it's desiged. I just found this out myself from this forum last week!

Denso Iridium usually refers to the high end performance Denso plug (IK20 or IK16) which are not designed for 60K miles service (I think only 30K miles). The OEM plugs are made by Denso and do have Iridium however they have a different design and are made to last (slightly different design). The ones you need are Denso part #SK20R11 or NGK #IFR6T11 (both are equally good).

Don't do it! First, you really should also have the timing belt tensioner pulley and idler pulley replaced and the timing belt tensioner. Second, I’m not sure how easy it is to do the cam seal since you have the VVT-i on your engine (I hope they're familiar with removing it). Third, Denso Iridium plugs are not the best choice (they are made for pure performance and not extended service) you need to go with the OEM specified Denso or NGK plug (your owners manual calls them out). Check with the dealer because I don't think your saving that much money plus you run the risk of having them mess something up plus you don't get a loaner car to drive.

Do you tend to use your parking brake as it sometimes will not release completely especially as the weather is getting colder.

Can you provide some more details on this? Is the noise occurring after start up with the car stopped and transmission in P? I have had similar noises from my 98 and that's why I want to see if it's the same thing. Also, is the noise a crackling noise from the rear or an actual electric type buzzing sound?

Yup, my VSC started going off because one of my front tires had a small leak and had lost 10 psi. Everytime I made a turn it would start beeping. After parking I realized that it was sensitive enough to be affected be a low tire pressure. Repairing tire took care of problem ofcourse.

I think there is something of greater importance that we need to mention. Based upon fengxian's question it's clear to me that he has not replaced a brake hose on his own. Replacing one is not easy for someone who is not familiar with this task. I recommend that you buy the hoses take it to a shop to have them replace them for you. They will have to bleed the brakes and given how critical a component this is you should not attempt replacing them yourself!!

If one of the ears only partially lines up then you need to keep turning the bulb until they all do (another 45 degress or more). I've used the Sylvannia Xtravision and although it has a very slightly brighter bulb it will not burn or damage your socket. Go with the silverstars they are worth it.

blake918, that's pretty impressive, however if you want to feel a power boost, change the fuel filter and then take it out for a ride you will be amazed!! Gumart, if I don't go with OEM then I would go with WIX as they do make excellent filters. I've cut open my fuel filters after 30K and it does capture a significant amount of sediments and I only fill up at brand name stations. I replace mine at 60K miles interval and when I do I can really feel a difference in power.

LexusLooker, thanks for the tip on the side mirror I also had this problem and couldn't figure out what the hell was causing it!! Baja, your display is working fine, you just need to change it to the TANK AVERAGE MPG to avoid the instantaneous reading it's displaying which can vary tremendously. Also, if I'm not mistaken other 98 owners have reported battery drain problems which occur if you leave the interior light on the setting DOOR, even if your door is properly closed! SKPerformance didn't you have this issue??