alsalih

It's your starter, it will be fine for a few days and then give you a no start suddenly. If you open and close the hood the shock from that will allow it to work ok for a few days. Let me guess you have between 110K to 120K miles on your car? It almost always occurs at this mileage on the 98+ for some reason.

There is nothing wrong with your water pump. Before you going tearing into the vehicle replacing it you should first replace your thermostat and reservoir cap before anything else. Water pump bearing failure will give you a constant noise while seal failure will start leaking consistently through the weep hole.

In addition to what lenore mentioned, there is also an oxygen sensor thread repair kit made by Heli-Coil. Some NAPA stores carry it or you can order it online.

Spiral cable they are talking about is the cable that goes from the fixed portion of the steering wheel (column) to the rotating portion (actual steering wheel) where it connects to the airbag. Mine was making a clicking noise and was replaced under the CPO warranty. The cable is installed in spiral configuration which I guess is where the name comes from.

Thanks so much for updating us. Please let us in know in a week if that does in fact solve the problem, I'm very curious to know!

Interesting info thanks for sharing that. I’m kind of surprised because the TPS will normally trigger a check engine light when it fails and then the car would go into the fail safe mode you noted. You did get the check engine light but it appeared to clear up. The TPS is not expensive and replacement is fairly easy except that they need to clock it (adjust it) right in order to get the correct idle speed. Please let us know if that does in fact fix it your problem.

This would not store a code. You could try a fuel pressure test however there is the possibility that it might actually still be within specifications and lead you to believe that it’s ok. The simplest thing to do is to listen for the fuel pump “buzz” when you turn the ignition key from position 1 to 2 without starting. When the car fails to start after being warm you should notice that when turning the ignition key you will not hear the fuel pump buzz. Actually, with the LS you might almost want to have someone turn the ignition while you stick your head in trunk listening for the fuel pump sound as it’s so quiet you might not hear it in the cabin. Anyway, there is the remote possibility that your fuel pump relay is bad, so check that first just to make sure, however those hardly ever fail on the LS so I really doubt it would the cause.

These symptoms are related to the fuel pump failing. That’s exactly what it starts doing before eventually going out completely. Make sure you also replace the fuel filter after doing this job.

What you’re describing is a typical symptom of the throttle control motor going bad. On the ’98 and newer models you have an electric motor attached to the side of the throttle body which controls the opening and closing of the butterfly as opposed to the older and more reliable method of using a direct cable. The electric motor retails for just for around $160 last time I checked. Let us know how it goes.

Sounds like a simple screw up from the shop doing the work. The rod which has the single nut on it has two flat spots (just below the threads) which sit inside the strut mount, and that keeps the rod from rotating when you tighten the center nut. Make sure the car is resting on it’s tires i.e. not lifted, then try to slowly tighten the center nut which will turn the complete rod until it matches up with the key/slot in the strut mount at which point it will push up into it and lock (which is what the shop should have done during install). Once that happens then you should be able to torque the nut to 20 ft-lbs. After a week of driving try retorquing those center nuts because the rubber will compress further leading to slack and a popping noise from the strut.

I think folks sometimes forget the many differences that the 98+ LS have over previous models. Your throttle body can and will get dirty but this will not cause the problem you noted. The 98+ LS does not have an EGR system as the earlier ones do, they’re able to reduce emissions through the use of VVT-i. You have an electric motor mounted at the throttle body which controls the throttle, and is most likely what caused your intermittent problem. That still doesn’t justify replacing the complete throttle body, rather the motor assembly only, which runs about $290.

OEM from the dealer ONLY, unless you want to change the feel of the ride. The OEM are made by KYB, however you might also find aftermarket KYB, they’re not the same part. The aftermarket ones are stiffer (do a search this is a common surprise for many). Only the ones from the dealer will give you back the original ride. FYI I paid $83 each for the oem from this site http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808

I just did this on my 98 last week. First you don’t need to remove the steering outer tie rod, unlike what the manual tells you. Second, only remove the upper control arm ball joint. You use a ball joint remover (I used the small fixed size one) for that just as bicol-ini noted, from Autozone, NAPA, or any other store. If you have done this before then this should be straight forward for you. It took me 3 hours to do both sides using all manual tools and spring compressor. I highly recommend you replace the isolator boot (the one the spring seats against) when doing this job. It will be badly compressed and needs replacement, plus it is known to have caused pop noises when the spring hits the strut mount.

SW03ES, man that's too funny, I died laughing here at work when I read that!

Thanks SK. Toysrme I did follow a similar method as done on bob's however eveything you see was done by me in my garage last week.