VBdenny

steel toe shoes?

no, the third step is okay.

I'm glad my tach still goes to 6200. Probably a bad electrical connection so I like the smack it hard idea.

2000 --- years mean more than miles

$100-$150?

Whoa, who actually needs so much power that they need to run 4 gauge wire? You all have a difference of opinion is all. If it was me and it was easier, I'd run it under the car. If it wears out, well so what, run more. I think having all that subwoofer would probably prhobit me from replacing it if it did wear out. It's not a perfect world but it ain't bad.

Fuel pumps are inside the gas tank so they are expensive to replace. The best prevention you can have for your fuel pump is to never let your fuel level get near empty. The worse thing you can do for your FP is to run out of gas. The gasoline in the tank cools the fuel pump and when it is empty, it is not cooled very well. Before I trained my wife to not let the tank get low, she ran out a couple times then in the same car, the fuels pump went out on the Jersey Turnpike, on a Sunday night late. Result, $700 and that was in a Chevy Caprice. Fill 'er up

Communication is they key to learning. You say you wish you knew more but you have already taught others. My trunk has never had this problem but in the the event it does I sure would like to know what the problem is. We all learn from each other. Regarding the shifting, I think the computer puts the car into some weird default pattern when this wire is open. My car did all kinds of strange shifts. I guess what worries me more than anything else is why a key won't open a trunk. Was there problems with the key or lock prior?

maybe you could switch it with the one in the back door.

oh yeah, regarding the smell. It has a solvent smell doesn't it. Block off the vacuum lines from you PS pump at the 2 points in the manifold and that will go away and probably let you pass emissions. I didn't know anywhere did emissions on 20 year old cars? but we don't have any emissions tests here.

LIfters? a bunch of hype. Yeah maybe if we were in competition on a rallye circuit but for a 20 year old car, I say the lifters are fine. My 90 has 180,000 and runs so perfect that to spend that much on something I didn't know was real would be ... Nope, won't hurt a thing should they have a slight tap. Remember, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

When the "R" light comes on when you brake, it means the white wire in the pack in the left trunk hinge, is broken. Happens all the time on these. I read somewhere that Lexus made the wire too short but I suspect time and repeated flexing is the main issue. I spliced in a small section and fixed everything. Keep in mind that when that wire is broken, the shift pattern is severly compromised. As far as the trunk issue, that IS your biggest problem. Maybe more than one wire broke and the other one locks you out of the trunk so you are forced to go to a dealer. They wouldn't be that sly, would they?

Just out of curosity, what kind of tires(specifically), how many miles on them, and how old are they. When the struts go, the car pulls more than it vibrates.

the RC guys? what is a good double sides tape to use to attach these?

I would replace the pan. Just be very careful to follow torque specifications as most oil pans leak due to overtightening the bolts. I certainly would not use thicker oil, very bad move.

When my ES330 hit 60,000 miles, I had a local Toyota dealer replace the front pads and turn the rotors for $300. I know some people advocate waiting until they are worn out but changing the fronts at 60K isn't unreasonable. Brakes are kind of important to me.

I once had a Buick 225 that did the same thing. The ring gear around the flywheel had a bad spot where the teeth were damaged. I replaced the flywheel and no more trouble. Terrible job though.

I guess it is different in Virginia and Carolina since we have junkyards all over the place. although I am in NJ right now, I expect to be back in Tidewater friday and I might go down to a yard this weekend so if you find out which relay, I'll look and see if I can find one.

exactly. When the wire(s) break, it causes all kinds of shifting problems. Problems which have sent many a Lexus owner to their friendly local dealer who proceeds to bend them over sharply. Easy fix on your own, expensive fix at the dealer.

The things you describe usually indicate a battery or a battery terminal connection problem. If you battery is more than 4 years old, replace it. While you are at it, clean the terminals well.

Look at the very top post on this page.

Hey thanks Marion, I just went on and ordered one.

Yup, exactly your problem and luckily for yoy, an easy and free fix.Carefully pry the wire pack out of the left trunk hinge. It will take you awhile to unwrap all the tape but when you are done, you will see a broken white (I think) wire). I used 2 crimp style connectors and fused in a short piece of wire. Tape it back up and everything should be fine. The first time I did this, I pushed all the wires carefully back into the hinge but it continued to flex and broke again. Now I just leave the curved part of the wire pack loose. As far as the clogged transmission filter, I doubt it. Try this fix first. Should take under an hour.

I would take a stethescope (engine type) and put a piece of electrical tape over the end then probe around inside the fusebox placing the sensor on the relays until you locate the one making the noise. Then I would go to the junkyard and dig around in Toyotas to see if I find the same one. You might get lucky. Wouldn't cost you a thing (well maybe a couple bucks for the relay if you are honest).

Although I have never had the O/D light blink, I experienced similar symptoms when one of the wires in the left trunk hinge was broken only the "R" light illuminated when the brake pedal was depressed. Also before the engine is up to temperature, you often see the same hanging RPM'sThe transmissions on these cars hardly ever fail so I doubt you have a major issue.