Acidic

Not a bad idea... junkyards are hard to find in New England but I think there are a couple in Mass...

There is a "taillight relay", I found it on sewell, it is also common to Toyotas... Here's a couple more hints... When going to the first position on the stalk that would turn on JUST the running lights and dim the dash I can hear a relay operating in the fuse box area. I don't know what relay but it seems like the stalk is doing something when I click over to running lights... Does anyone have a troubleshooting flow chart? Like what you'd expect in factory manuals or a wiring diagram? I don't want to throw parts at something that should be easy to troubleshoot

ok, I'll look a little harder... it seemed silly that lexus owners would have to lay upside down on the floor to replace fuses...

Did you check first for the popular fault of breaks in the wiring in the boot[trunk] hinge? Yes yes it was... Does anyone know how to test the relay as well? I suppose it could also be the headlight switch as well.

I'm having a problem with my lights on my 1991 LS400. When turning on the headlights they turn on fine but the running lights in the back don't turn on, the dash doesn't light up and the cluster will not dim. I'm guessing with these problems I need a relay fixed... maybe the tail light or headlight relay. My issue is that I'm showing that the relays are on the TOP of the junction box which are totally unreachable from below. Does anyone know how to reach the top? I've had cars where the j/b will swing down or something like that but I don't see any way to make that happen...

I need sunroof glass... 91 ls400... please PM me if you have one you can ship to 03102 :(, do not put pressure on a small spot of glass as you try to pry off the molding of the sunroof. Sad thing is I was putting it back together, taking it apart went fine...

If you buy an amp it will have crossovers built in and will be adjustable... there are specs with the speakers to say where to xover the low end. The sony deck might work but you'll still be running into the clipping problem... and you only need 4 channels if you want the rear speakers to work... I usually only run front speakers (it's STEREO... which means left/right.. no reason for rear speakers) and a sub so I run 1 4 ch amp, 2 ch for the fronts and I bridge the rear channels for the sub...

It could be a number of things... and it could be any of the systems or just a sensor... if you don't know how to troubleshoot and money is tight take it to a mechanic for troubleshooting then do the work yourself... You can also check the basics yourself... inspect plugs/wires/rotors for anything obvious, check for vac leaks, rips in intake etc.... the fuel pump is plausible as well but I don't know how to test one... If you don't get a good diagnosis you could be throwing parts at it for awhile

First off skip the bass blocker, it's not your speakers distorting, it's the stock amp "clipping" which isn't really a good thing. Secondly I would go 50x4 because these amps are readily available and a little headroom is a good thing. You can just use the controls on the amp to limit the output. Here is a few amps from a good site to order from: http://www.woofersetc.com/p7270/EA4100--Eclipse-4-Ch-400-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6660/PCX4240--Soundstream-4Channel-240-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p3956/ZX2004--Kicker-4-Ch-200-Watt-ZX-Series-Amplifier.htm I'd go with the eclipse.. but any of them would work and are better than the junk brands out there... wiring it into a stock system isn't the easiest thing to do. Are you running the stock head unit?

This was a common mod for the E36 M3 as well, and they have fragile cooling systems. It would probably be fine in most situations but I won't be doing this anytime soon

The best way will be modify and replace... but that won't be the easiest by far. You should really go to a car audio forum to learn these skills. sites like caraudio.com and DIYMA are great places to learn...

I would check the coolant level, then burp the system... if that doesn't fix it find the feeder hoses for the heater core. Use a garden hose or some other sort of water source that provides a little pressure and blow out the core with it... then refill and burp the system.... when you are "burping" sit in the car and moving the heat from full hot to full cold several times while the car is running

Great post, it's great to make such a cheap fix that helps so many but his part of the post simply isn't true... if someone would take the time find the ohm load of the amp and match it up with some modern subs we could EASILY find subs in the sub $100 range that sound BETTER... this is the old Lexus parts are best taken too far... but this fix works so 90% of people should just do this... $500 for this sub is a flat out joke....

Well it has to be the ball joint, the shock mount or the tie rod end as the lubricant I sprayed on them fixed the squeaking/crunching... I have a stuck caliper on the other side too so I imagine the wobble I have at speed can be traced to the warped rotor or the suspension part that is crunching... I got a deal on the parts so I'm just going to go ahead and do it all... I got beck/arnley ball joints for $61 a side and tie rod ends for $92 (both sides). Hurray for advance auto matching rock auto! I'm using run of the mill (wearever) rotors and pads (premium cermaic ones) and cardone calipers (43 each) (rebuilt OE units)... That should solve everything for $415 and a day over the weekend! I've already done the thermostat. coolant temp sensor and a complete timing belt job (lexus belt and WP) with cam seals crank seals, plugs, wires, caps and rotors.... ohh and Arnott UCA's

I've been having a very loud suspension crunch for about a week now. I've narrowed down a sure fire way to reproduce the noise by "bouncing" the front drivers side above the wheel. As I was trying to troubleshoot I put the car on ramps and had my sister (only person avail) bounce the front end. I could tell the noise was coming from the head shield area (not the heat shield). So I take silicone spray and coat the lower shock mount... bounce the car, nothing changes, then I do the same to the tie rod end and lower ball joint. Nothing changes. So I give up and drive home... I decide to go to rite aid to buy batteries, so I can use my camera to make a video so I can get some help from the forum on the sound. When I come out I bounce the front end and guess what.... no sound... So with the sound narrowed to LBJ, Tie rod ends or lower shock mount which would make a crunchy/squeaky sound when loading/unloading the suspension from directly above?