sha4000

Maybe this will help. Lots of posts concerning emergency brakes and master cylinders. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-third-generation/714057-strange-beep-every-15-minute-or-so.html

I'm glad your back up and running.

Ok we are just glad it was something simple.

You are indeed right Paul.I found my program instruction from when I bought an eBay key a couple of years ago and it has both procedures but it's just in one document. The OP probably just programmed the remote and not the key.

Well landar you have done lots of work that has helped plenty of us out in a jam. I wish I was able to squeeze a tool in the back on my 98 so i did not have to remove the coolant bridge but like others have mentioned previously for the 98-00 model it's just not possible. My starter lasted to 192,500 miles and went out while sitting parked. I tried to just change out the contacts like billy has mentioned so much but the starter would just spin and the gear would pop out sometimes. I tested it before re-installing EVERYTHING and it worked fine but once I tried to crank it would just spin and not engage the flywheel. I googled real quick and this told me that the solenoid was probably the culprit. This was about 12pm Thursday afternoon so I just jumped on (Amazon Prime has been great to me) and ordered a re-manufactured Denso with next day shipping that I was eyeing from the beginning. I had the starter in my hand by 10am the next morning. I tried the inexpensive route but alas It did not work for me. I was not about to mess with the old starter, which is now sitting in the Amazon box with new contacts. I popped the new one in and did a test crank before I put the manifold back on and I heard that very pleasing sound. This is an easier job than most ppl think ( once you have done it a couple times lol ). The most time consuming thing IMO is taking the drivers side bolt off and back on.

As far as I know there is no separate way to program the key to lock/unlock the doors and to get it to start. It's just one procedure which the attached pdf outlines. The OP stated that he has an original preprogrammed key. If its not working I would just program it all over again or make sure that you have room in the system to add another key. Maybe all 10 spots are filled up and you might have to delete some of the keys in the system.

Yes you did post in the wrong forum but I dont know if you have enough posts to put it in the for sale forum though.

Hey billy I'm actually basing my decision off of all your posts relating to starter repair. My friend just confirmed what you have been saying. If it does crap out later on the repair and down time will be much quicker and easier. Thanks.

I actually have my manifold off right now doing this job on my 98 which is a little different from your 91 because you have the EGR to deal with. I removed the manifold as one piece so I did not have to remove the fuel rails and deal with all of those extra pieces. If you remove the manifold in 1 pieces it would be nice to have a helper to lift it out since it is kind of heavy. My manifold gaskets were in great shape so I cleaned them up and will be reusing them. I had to remove the coolant crossover pipe and will be replacing those 2 gaskets as well as changing the contacts in the starter instead of replacing. I have a friend that's a very competent mechanic/body guy that is straightening up the body for me so I can get it painted. When I got the starter out he tested it and it was not spinning so he took it and cleaned up the brushes and greased it and it worked. he said some moisture got into the starter since the 3 gaskets were worn out. I ordered the gaskets and contacts which I'm waiting on now. In hindsight I believe this job is easier than a TB job since there are less parts to remove and if I had to do it again I could have the starter out in about 2 hours. Hey Landar I have not forgot about the Cam seal How-To I've just had a lot going on since then. Oh and those injector plugs are hard to get off so I just used used needle nose pliers with light pressure to unlock the tabs and just pull them off. I did not break any of the clips either I did snap one of the bolts that hold the throttle cable but I don't see that causing any issues.

This should get you started or just google it. There is also a sticky thread at the top of this forum. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/40025-instrument-cluster-circuit-board-is-bad-1000-bucks-24.html

1k to change those sensors is just absurd. I would find a new mechanic also.

landar def gives the best advice on this forum. Come back and let us know what the culprit turned out to be.

Those prices are ridiculous and I'm hoping the dealership did not try to bend you over more. Hopefully you got a good deal wherever you got the work done.

I don't know if it's worth it to you but I would def look into rebuilding the cluster since that seems to be a common issue with these cars.

I have to change the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley also. I get that annoying noise in the front and I changed the fan bracket which helped alot but it's still there.

Usually the drivers side mount is the one that gives fits since there is so little space to turn the wrench. I had a helper and we dropped the cross member down some. I used a crowbar while he did the loosening and tightening of the nut.

Do you mean your car will accelerate on it's own or that the rpms just go higher while in park?Sign up on the other lexus forum and post your problem. You might get more suggestions over there. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400-183/

I've used some *BLEEP*zu honda grease and it has helped some but not eliminated the same noise.

Where did you find someone with an OBD1 scanner? Anyway it seems from a little reading that you timing is out of whack from the code 13. That clipped wire was probably your cam sensor and since it was clipped the car ran rich which in turn most likely fouled up both oxygen sensors. With 229k when was the timing belt last done? I recommend changing both oxygen sensors and checking the wiring and connectors for the camshaft sensors as well as the crankshaft sensors. check this thread out. Maybe yo have the failing ECU but I would check tha LAST and pay attention to the codes first. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/412667-dtc-code-engine-code-13-a.html

Probably because most ppl and shops just change parts but if it is fixable I would like to know for future posters.

How many miles have you driven since the timing belt change? By clunking sound do you mean sputtering? I would take it back to the shop and let them sort it out since they did the prior work and it was not doing this before.

Do you have any check engine codes? You should be getting upward of 400 miles on a tank if the car is running properly. What year do you have, miles on it and when was the last time you had a tuneup?

Did you get the codes yet?

Is your check engine light on? that's terrible gas mileage if I understand you correctly.

Have not forgot about the tutorial. Since I've got the car running I ran it to some other issues. My mothers desktop has been having issues and I'm n the process of re-installing windows.