sha4000

Your best bet is to find one in the junkyard. http://www.car-part.com/index.htm What's wrong with yours?

I get what your saying. My fob would not lock/unlock just now and it seems to happen more when it's raining for some reason.

It was raining too much and I forgot to take the pic. I never had tanabes so I can't comment on it. The Eibachs are nice and give a decent drop without going crazy. I'm running 245/40/19. The fronts rub on the fender cover at full clock though which is a common issue with the 245. A 225 would have eliminated that but I wanted to be able to rotate tires so I sucked it up.

Well I have Eibach springs with the KYB-GR2 shocks and 19in G35 rays on and it looks nice. Like Landar said the ride is drastically different from stock but I can live with it for the most part. I'll get a pic when I go back out to the car but it's raining right now. I'm in the process of doing some body work so don't mind the condition of the car.

My money is still on the battery Billy.

Go through this WHOLE thread and filter your results. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/260772-ls400-owners-post-your-wheel-setup.html

Yeah I know but seeing as though the OP has been riding around with the locks in this condition for some time I did not think he would fix it now. This should be a wake up call though.

That's just for the factory CD and you will lose that capability once you put an aftermarket stereo in your car.

Glad it was a simple and most importantly free fix.

Come back and let us know how you resolved the problem so future owners can gain some knowledge.

Yes try what Landar but make sure all doors are closed but not locked when you reconnect the battery.

I would take anything the dealer said needs fixing with a grain of salt. They are notorious for recommending repairs just cause they think you will pay. With that said, the only thing on the list that I know you might need is the timing belt service as well as the power steering pump since they tend to leak and will eventually kill your alternator if not fixed. Now I'm not saying the pump is bad since I don't know. How long have the couple owned the car before selling it to you? At the very least you need to change the TB/WP, etc... for peace of mind but I would find an indie shop and let them look over it before I kick out that kind of dough or better yet give it back to the couple and continue your search.

I can't really understand what exactly is going on here. You have to slow down and be a little clearer about what's happening.

Check the 4th post in this thread for a less expensive option. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/727233-water-in-the-trunk.html

Please increase your font. Do you mean the level in the reservoir has dropped considerably? How much coolant did you loose when removing the hoses and rear coolant bridge when you changed the starter? Depending on how much that could be your coolant loss right there if you did not top it back up.

Sounds like your all set.

Sure sounds like the famous trunk seal.

First i would find out when was the last time the timing belt and water pump were done on this car and ask to see the maintenance records if it was dealer maintained. See if the starter has been replaced and what suspension work has been done to date. Ask if the alternator changed was due to a leaking power steering pump. If everything checks out take it for a nice drive in the city and highway and make sure to get it up to speed. If it rides good I would consider buying for the stated price but I would try to get it down some more.

Did you get it off?

Your misunderstanding, 1200 is cold start idles which gradually goes down to 500-600 when it reaches operating temp.

My car even when it's not in tip top shape idles around 1200 consistently at cold start up for the 11 years that I have owned it. 1600 is not normal.

Good for you.

No problem let us know how it turned out.

The trim is just clipped so is easy to remove to access the loom. Remove a section of the black tape insulation to expose the wires within the loom. Locate the thinner of the plain black wires then cut the wire.Trim the insulation back on the black wire nearest the trunk then extend the wire with another suitable piece of wire long enough to reach the battery positive terminal. Briefly touching the other end of the wire to the battery positive will activate the trunk lock solenoid and the trunk will then pop open. Once you have opened the trunk remove the temporary wire extension and rejoin the two ends of the black wire preferably by soldering and heat shrinking insulation, rewrap the loom and refit the trim. It sounds complicated but should take no more than 15 minutes from start to finish. The reason why the wire is cut first is to avoid any possible damage to the control unit by feeding 12 volts into it the wrong way.

If the connectors that are at the bottom of the drivers side footwell near the bottom of the door are still there maybe you ca bring a battery and try this method. After fighting with this for 4 hours. I figured it out. Leave the battery connected and let the alarm stop (let it run for one minute till it stops). Remove the carpeting from the drivers kick panel. There are three connectors vertically, the top one being blue. Remove the blue connector and look at the bottom row of pins, the third pin pops the trunk with a positive (+) signal. Connect a wire from the positive battery terminal and briefly touch it to the third pin. Hope this helps. G/L -Trini