DomLee

I use a 3000 lb floor jack from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=40105 For jack stands, I have 3 ton jack stands. Go to your local Pep Boys and pick them up there. I have 2 ton jack stands as well, but I like to go overboard w/ my weight capacity. I keep the jack stands at the lowest setting. The 2nd from lowest setting is the highest I'll ever go. The higher you go w/ the car, the more chance you have of having the jack stand tip over (on a slanted surface). You shouldn't need to raise your car that high for just an oil change.

My own personal opinion is that I would never pay more than $10k for a SC. Why? Because there are plenty of them available. Sure, you might end up w/ an older SC (like my 93), BUT in all honesty these cars are pretty low on maintenance. You have the common items that need replacing: Control arms Heater/Air control unit (blacked out display) Instrument panel needles Suspension (shocks/struts) Your basic leather will need to be repaired in certain spots CD player will probably need replacing (might as well change the whole sound system) But all in all, this is VERY minimal. The engine is pretty stout and sound. Mine happens to burn a little bit of oil, but for a nearly 12 year old car...you kinda have to expect that. The great thing is that there are plenty of engine options available IF you need it. (replace 2JZGE w/ another one, rebuild the current one, turbo it, 1JZ, or 2JZ-GTE).

I would be concerned. It would not surprise me if he had somehow damaged the vehicle (via joyriding, or even borrowing a customer's car), and is now scrambling to get it repaired. Either that, or the scenario that you mentioned...he is trying to just rip you off. Time to pay a surprise visit to the shop. Just drop by. No calls or early warnings. Request that you IMMEDIATELY see your vehicle. Get a printout of everything done to the vehicle and what needs to be done. From there, call the cops to ensure that you can rightfully remove your vehicle from his property. In CA, the mechanic cannot perform any work not authorized by the owner. This is in writing. I don't know how laws work in your state, but you may want to look this up for your own protection.

The decision would be up to you. I heard that it is the lower arms that wear out anyway, BUT keep in mind that the bushings are at least 11 years old on your car. Up to you if you think replacing ALL the bushings would be worth it.

Forced induction. Making sure that your engine mounts/tranny mounts are in excellent condition to put that power to the ground.

And both doors fail to open? I find that extremely odd.

For that short period of time, your cat is fine.

This is an old topic...

Eh? Both doors fail to open? Starting off, are on the inside or outside of your car? Assuming outside, are you using a key or a remote to lock/unlock the door? Are you pulling the handle and the door not opening? Assuming inside, are you using the door lock/unlock feature? Are you pulling the handle and the door not opening? It really depends on the situation whether you are outside or inside your vehicle. Please clarify.

Some times, OEMs change the rubber compound based on customer feedback. Example: 93 Mazda RX-7s had very stiff rubber bushings, but due to customer complaints, they made softer bushings for the following years. Other times, the rubber can be changed due to changes in a particular supplier for example. Or changes in the supply of materials which will force a change in the end product (the bushing). And other times, changes that were made to models (latter SCs had more power, weighed a bit more, etc.), causes OEMs to make changes in the bushing. While I don't know the exact reason, these are reasons I can come up w/ WHY Lexus decided to have a different part number between model years.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=19759&hl=

Check the battery first. As mentioned, when it is low, it can still turn on the stereo, etc. Not only that, but checking the battery is the cheapest thing you can do right now. Beats changing out an alternator, if you don't have to. Next, check alternator and starter.

Hmm...how puzzling. BTW...you're in Miami. As much as emissions equipment is a Federal mandate,...you could just remove it since Florida doesn't have emissions testing. Couldn't you?

Go to Tirerack.com and compare the tire choices available. Read the customer comments. Very helpful.

I'm looking at sway bars, and I need some input. http://www.suprastore.com/trdfronandre.html http://www.tanabe-usa.com/stabilizers/# For the TRD sway bars (front and rear): What is the material of the bars? Chromeoly Steel or steel? How much stiffer than stock? (Suprastore claims to be 27% stiffer) What are the outer diameter of the bars? What are the weight of the bars? For the Tanabe sway bars (front and rear): I know it is made from Chromoeoly Steel. Don't know how much stiffer than stock. Don't know the outer diameter measurements. What are the weight of the bars? I'm not looking at the any other bars at this time. I know the Daizen bars are a popular choice, but a lot of people seem to choose that bar because it is the biggest/thickest/stiffest available. Personally, I don't care for these bars. I know what I'm looking for, and just because it is the thickest...doesn't cut it for me. I'm looking for a performance package that suits me, my driving style and the intended application. Seems like a lot of people don't know much about HOW their suspension works and what variables will be affected when changes are made. And I also know that Titan makes a set of sway bars as well. I may be interested in these, but I want to know about the TRD and the Tanabe right now. Thanks for all your help.

A transmission flush is a fairly simple job. You can take it anywhere...don't necessarily need to go to the dealer. BUT if you are going to take it to an independent shop, I would recommend purchasing a transmission filter from the dealer prior to doing so.

Have you checked to see whether the wiper arm itself is warped/bent? This happens when you have the wiper arm up...and then proceed to open your hood. The hood will hit the arm...and either hit it back or possibly bend the arm. I accidentally did this on one of my cars. You might also want to check to see that the wiper arm is firmly bolted in place. Look for the nut at the base of the arm, as it may have loosened over time.

Guide pin? Which pin in that? Is that the one that holds the caliper to the suspension? I remember both of those bolts being a PITA to get out. Had to use an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight to bust it loose. That was after applying liquid wrench... I would not try heating it up as what you want is to make the pin smaller to have it slide out of the hole, not bigger.

Are you sure that it is the pump, and not a clog in the lines/nozzles? An easy way to test this, would be to open your hood. Underneath the insulation, you'll find the washer fluid lines. At a point or two, you'll find a connection point. Or you can disconnect the lines from the nozzle base. Disconnect the line and (you might want to have a friend somewhat cap the line to create some pressure) press the washer fluid. If not this, then it could be the pump...unless there is a fuse that I don't yet know about...

I would actually complain to Lexus corporate office if I were you. http://www.lexus.com/home/contact_lexus.html

Brakes work by disappating heat. The more mass = more capacity to help disappate heat. Therefore, the best way to eliminate fade, would be to use full face rotors. Now, cross drilling and slotting...both methods remove mass from a rotor. In older days (say the 80s or so), brake pad materials were not as "good" as they are now. Cross drilling was a method of allowing the brake pads to release gases...thereby allowing the brake pad to remain in constant contact w/ the rotor. Slotting also has the same effect. The reason for slotting was because cross drilling is more prone to cracking. Also, slotting is supposed to effectively scrape off a thin layer of the brake pad with each sweep...allowing for good brake pad material. Drawbacks w/ both cross drilling and slotting is increased pad wear. For rotors, I purchased Rotora rotors. The rear set, didn't have the proprietary "e-coating" on it. So what I did was I got a can of high temp engine spray and sprayed the rotor to help stop corrosion. It seems to have worked. You just have to clean the surface w/ brake cleaner. Just as a side note, the front rotors that did have the "e-coating", was flaking off. Luckily, I had taken the liberty of spraying the hub area w/ the high temp paint...and that has kept it down to a minimal. This is a great "cheap" way of keeping your rotors looking rust free.

This has been discussed at ClubLexus before. It will not work.

1st gear is pretty short. Don't expect too much from this gear. 2nd gear is a bit longer 1st. 3rd and 4th gear are the most "fun" gears. 4th gear is able to be engaged when you're going a little above 40mph. Carries power all the way to 80mph. 5th can be engaged at 50mph, but it is just an overdrive gear.

Upgrading brakes is not a solution to the current problem. The problem is that he has fading brakes on the stock brake system. Solving WHY he is experiencing fade would be a better and less expensive solution than having him perform an "upgrade". My current guesses are the brake fluid is old, and the rotors are too thin/under spec.

How were you able to inspect your rotors? Did you use a caliper or did you perform just a visual inspection? Brake pads, you can tell if they are low...so this one is up to you. For fluid, is your brake fluid boiling/bubbling after a stop?