DomLee

Brake systems are sized a certain way in order to achieve a certain balance. More stopping power to the front (via Supra calipers for example) can be a good thing...to a certain point (and it depends on your particular goals/function). After you exceed that point, however...it can be dangerous. Example, if you are able to safely able to increase your stopping power and reduce your stopping distance...that is a good thing. If you are stopping so hard (via a light tap of the brake pedal), that the entire car takes an immediate dive forward, and you end up w/ a Lexus logo embossed in your chest and your teeth being permanently stuck on the steering wheel...this is a bad thing. Slight exaggeration, but you get the point. And this also includes the rear. What makes you think that putting the original front calipers in the rear would be a "better/good" improvement over stock? The rear brakes don't do that much of the stopping anyway. That is why the fronts are always much bigger. Not only that, but w/ the retrofit of your front brakes onto the rear...you may or may not be able to retain your parking brake. Not to mention...you are adding more unsprung weight to the rear wheels. To really reduce your stopping distance,...get some really nice tires. People tend to buy crappy tires and fail to understand why they are not necessarily stopping any better.

Although I haven't changed the rears on my vehicle just yet (but am planning to do so this weekend)... The concave side of the pad should be aimed towards the center of the rotor. What you are trying to do...is to get as much contact area of the pad as possible. They should only fit on in one direction. Alternatively, just reverse the exact process in which you pop off your old brake pads...and you'll know which way the new pads should fit in. Dom

Most of the manuals...are roughly from 92 - 95 (at least from what I've seen). And they tend to be from 92 or 93. This makes them a little over 10 years old. So it will be hard to find a car w/ less than 100k miles. (National average mileage is 12k/yr.)

I am somewhat in the market for a clutch as well. I want one that will be easy enough for street driving (daily driver), as well as be strong enough to take some abuse at the track...like an event such as Drift Day. Anyways recommendations? BTW...since we're on this topic. I was told that the Supra 6-speed (V160) is a direct swap w/ our engines. Does that mean that clutches designated for the Supra Turbo fit our cars directly (assuming that I stick w/ the stock W58 tranny)? Clutches such as the Exedy Twin Plate http://www.suprastore.com/extwplclsuex.html

It could be a number of things. Could be the pad being low, the spring clip may have popped out/broken and is coming in contact w/ the rotor, etc. Is it coming from the front or rear? Is there any shuddering or pedal shake while the brakes are applied?

This isn't a technical question, but does pertain to SC300/SC400s. What happend to www.intellexual.net? It is still down after 2 weeks or so. Just thought I would ask.

Sounds like either something isn't grounded/wired in properly. Was the car ever in an accident? Reason I ask is because if the car was in an accident and body panels (and other parts) were reinstalled...they may have accidentally pinched a wire or two thereby not properly grounding the wires. (This happend to me on one of my cars).

Read these two links: (but focus on the 2nd link) http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#engineexhaust1 http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#engineexhaust2

Burning oil burns black. My previous car...had bad piston rings (I bought it used). I had larger amounts of soot on the exhaust pipe and the oil would turn black really fast. Let me put it to you this way. The engine is supposed to run on 5w30 or 10w30. I was running 20w50 and I was still burning this oil at a rate of about 1/2 quart per week!!! 20w50 is used on turbocharged engines...not typical na engines. Get out of your contract now. The dealer is playing you for a fool. And that car...will only be a reminder of this for as long as you own it.

Wait a minute. Let me back up for a second. I made a reply yesterday when I was half asleep at work and not caffeined up. Problem #1 - "My stupid mechanic didnt label the gas cans correctly and accidentally put in deisel in the tank". This may sound stupid...but generally speaking...people don't use gas cans to fill up cars anymore. Unless they are in an emergency situation (like they ran out of gas on the road), or they are filling up a lawnmower. Problem #2 - Burning coolant creates white smoke. ATF creates white smoke too, but this must be purposely put into the engine for this to happen. Although I haven't SEEN the effects of diesel fuel in one of our engines...this is my guess. Diesel fuel doesn't burn white. Do you see buses, semi trucks, u-hauls, and even old school tank-like mercedes burn WHITE SMOKE from their exhaust pipes? I SURE DON'T! They are PITCH BLACK plumes of death clouds. Problem #3 - You test drove it...and you said it drove fine. Putting in diesel fuel into our sensitive engines would not run properly at all. (Engine would probably knock) If a car has a slightly broken headgasket and coolant is slightly getting into the engine...the engine will still run okay/fine. I know...as my Saturn has a broken headgasket. It runs okay. It passes smog (miraculously). No real smoke. It just runs okay. But please don't think that coolant in an engine is okay. This is NOT good at all! As sluggo mentioned, check the following items for telltale signs of a broken headgasket. 1) Dirty coolant. Signs that oil is mixing w/ the coolant. Check the reservoirs, as this is simple to spot. 2) Dirty murkish oil. Coolant is mixing w/ oil. This is not as simple to spot. Look at the dipstick, oil cap, etc. If I were you...I would issue an immediate stop payment (assuming you paid via check). I would begin to call an attorney (even if you were just inquiring)...and make it known to the dealer that you are in correspondence w/ your attorney. BTW...please check this out and make a filing if you have not already done so. http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dealers_fl.html

Honestly, I don't know the effects of putting in diesel fuel into an unleaded fuel vehicle. I will ask this though. Was there a sweet smell? The reason I ask, is if this was coolant...coolant has a sweet smell to it. A few things that will create "white smoke" when burned in the engine: 1) Coolant - characterized by sweet smell. 2) ATF fluid - characterized by large plumes of white smoke. My opinion would be to siphon the diesel fuel out of the gas tank. Then, along w/ putting the proper fuel into the car...dump in a bottle of fuel system cleaner. See if that will remedy your situation. He (the dealer) could be lying to you though. You may have a broken headgasket...which could cause you to burn coolant. Get it inspected by a mechanic that you trust. Perform a compression test and that will clue you in to what is wrong.

I recently purchased Axxis Ultimate brake pads. The pads are good. Dust is low (IMO). Expect to pay somewhere between $100 - $120 for both front and rear pads. (I think the fronts were like $55, while the rears were $45...something like that). Not sure about pad life, as I've also installed slotted rotors which shorten pad life. I've had to stomp on the brakes quickly a few times...and it has performed quite well. Also, please purchase good quality tires. People often purchase good pads, but neglect their tires. I'm currently running Yokohama ES100s and I like them a lot. Good traction on dry and wet. Low noise.

Motor swaps such as this can be done...but w/ a few requirements. 1) Donor motor must be the same year or newer than the chassis. 2) Must retain the full smog equipment for the motor.