DomLee

If you are going to be purchasing parts from Carson Toyota, speak to Colin Imai. He is a great guy to deal with. Tell him that Dominic w/ the SC300 sent you. (I order from him every 2 weeks or so...haha)

Eibachs and H&Rs will not work? I went to Overboost.com's store section and ran a search w/ Lexus SC430. http://www.overboost.com/obs/search.asp?se...arch_button.y=9 I'm showing H&R, Tanabe (the NF210), and TEIN have springs (S-Tech and Hi Tech). TEIN also makes a coilover. Also ran a search on L-Tuned Parts's website (AKA Carson Toyota). http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/struct.p..._id=27&cat_id=7

Nice! Looks real nice! I too will be going to black wheels w/ polished lip. But that comes after some other important parts like suspension.

Your cat could have gone bad (clogged). That, or an O2 sensor has gone bad.

It doesn't make sense why his head unit would affect his door locks.

Well...the starter isn't a maintenance item that needs replacing all the time. It usually is a part that needs replacement maybe...every 7+ years. What year is your car? And look at the mileage. Take that into consideration.

It can be the seals along the door jam, could be the sunroof, and the front windshield.

Is the shaking isolated to the steering wheel, the brake pedal, or both? Trying to clarify as to what the specific symptom is...

It is quite possible that you lost some bottom end torque. A lot of people, when adding more "power" seem to focus on peak horsepower rather than the lower and more useable horsepower and torque. Keep in mind that the vehicle when new,...had 92 octane available, as opposed to the current 91. That and manufacturers have "test driver's" that drive vehicles in an attempt to squeeze the best performance times available, based on whatever category they are focusing on. They will experiment w/ different tire pressures (for example) in order to get the best performance times. Not only that, but from the factory...all of the components in the vehicle are new. Every bushing is doing it's job properly. All of the various belts, etc. are new, thereby no slack minimizing any lag in performance. Don't expect to get the performance times that were posted in the brochure. That is usually a best case scenario. Your car is over 10 years old...you have to expect a decrease in performance.

Hmm...I own a SC300. I've noticed the lights dimmer a bit when I have my hazards on, or some times when I step on the brake. Will your alternator fit my car? If so, how much are you asking for? Dom

So for $48.95, was that the cost of the repair or for a new hose? You mention that they can make any hose...just curious as to what that cost may be.

Regarding the Injen intake system. Again, if you think that the gain in horsepower is worth the extra money ($60 for K&N versus $200+ for the Injen), that is up to you. The piping does make the air flow within the intake a bit smoother though...

An intake doesn't add very much horsepower for naturally aspirated vehicles. Therefore, don't expect to necessarily "feel" any increase in horsepower. I've added the K&N Filter for my SC300. I didn't feel any performance increase. I do, however, hear my intake a bit louder though. I believe that my RPMs seem to go up a bit quicker than before, but that is strictly perception at this point in time. The stock plastic intake plenum isn't exactly the most efficient design in terms of performance. It usually is designed a certain way to help reduce noise. I may decide to fabricate my own intake piping...BUT...this still will not increase horsepower by a large amount.

When was the last time that you had the fuel system cleaned? Some times, sediments in your fuel system (the tank) settle during long periods of time. When you start up your car,...these sediments may get sucked up against the float/filter that is in your fuel tank. As much as Lexus technicians may claim that the filters are lifetime...it isn't that hard to change out the fuel filter for a little bit of assurance. Also, Toyota has a SUPER high concentrated bottle of fuel system cleaner for roughly $15 (I think). Dump it in your fuel system. I would also advise against letting your fuel run close to the bottom. Regarding the shaking along that particular pulley,...I would advise that you check the tension of the belt, as well as the condition of the belt itself. If you belt is tensioned too tight, I can envision why there could be startup problems until the belt gets warm enough to expand. Dom

What leads you to believe that a rebuild is necessary? Are you planning to significantly modify the vehicle or are you rebuilding a "bad" motor?

Turn your rotors. Any current deposits that are on the rotors...are only magnified once you perform your break-in process w/ the new pads. You want a "clean/fresh" surface for your brake pads. Also, have your rotors turned elsewhere...not the dealer. The machine that turns the rotor is nothing special. A local NAPA auto parts store can turn them.

Did you arbitrarily pick that battery from Autozone, or was the battery given to you by one of the reps there? All autoparts stores should be able to look up the correct size battery that will fit your vehicle. I've gone to SEARS for my batteries. Stay away from Pep Boys brand "ProLine" stuff. Their products always tend to break sooner than expected.

The products above, are aftermarket products. They utilize 3M transparent films. These films are meant to product your vehicle from dirt, sand, etc. It will not harm your paint at all, and if applied correctly...it really should not be visible unless someone is clearly looking for it.

Per intellexual.net LS400: caliper weight - 9 lbs rotor diameter - 12.4 inches rotor thickness - 1.26 inches Supra: caliper weight - 15 lbs rotor diameter - 12.72 inches rotor thickness - 1.26 inches Personally...I'm not sure whether to trust the accuracy of the weights given. From the pictures...they both look like they are sized very similar (both are 4 piston calipers). The rotor diameters are close, and the thickness is the same. So I find it a little difficult to believe that there is a 6lb difference in weight. Not saying that this can't happen...but I'm not sure if I trust the info.

92 240sx hatchback. First car. 97 Saturn SL2. Selling this as we speak. (If someone wants it, let me know) 88 RX-7 Turbo II. Sold. 93 SC300. Current car.

How about some clear 3M film? www.xpel.com www.stongard.com

Since it is still under warranty, I would do everything I can to get the car inspected at the dealer. Document who you spoke w/ and the particular problem. But before you do...here are some questions. What tires are you running (the recommended stock one or a similar replacement)? Are you on the stock run flats? Are you using aftermarket wheels? What is your tire size and recommended psi (I noticed you said it should be at 33psi)? Tire sensors should not have to be reset. That doesn't make sense. The tire system has to be easy enough for the average consumer to use, therefore the system should automatically be able to detect changes in air pressure at all times. It shouldn't have to be reset at all. Have you had new tires installed? If so, were you told of any abnormalities/damage to the rims? Was any repair to the rims made?

Pros 1) Possible increased handling due to shorter sidewall. Shorter sidewall = less flex...giving a more firmer and solid feel. Cons 1) You may be concerned w/ scratching your wheels (especially when attempting to park...AKA curb rash). 2) Larger rims may possibly mean more weight. More weight means more unsprung weight at each corner...thereby the car may feel a bit more sluggish. It can also mean less weight as well. Depends on the style and particular construction of the rim. 3) If wheels are too wide, you may rub the wheel wells. Wide wheels also affect your maximum steering angle. 4) If the sidewalls are too low, this also means you have to avoid potholes, large rocks, etc...to avoid damaging your wheels. I've seen damaged wheels...and it is just not pretty. Some damage can be repaired...but I'm the type of person where it is never the same. 5) When going up to sizes 19 on up, it will be a little more difficult finding places that can mount the tires properly. Some machines are not made to accomodate larger than normal sizes. Coincidentally...some alignment machines cannot accomodate larger wheels.

The pad should completely touch the rotor surface. It doesn't make sense to make an overly large sized pad... You did mention that your brake caliper was rusted/stuck. ASSUMING that it was rebuilt properly, the piston should operate as it should. This should allow the piston to evenly distribute pressure on your brake pad...and ensure that the entire surface area of the brake pad comes in contact w/ the rotor. This was also why your rotors were rusted. The brake pad was not coming in contact w/ your rotor...and subsequently not scrapping off the top layer. See if this helps you, as the Supra NA brake system is similar to the SCs: http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_...acement/rb1.jpg http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_...acement/rb2.jpg http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_...acement/rb3.jpg http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_...acement/rb4.jpg Also, be sure to look at how the parking brake is set up as well. All braking component info is here: http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/brake_...ment/index.html

Assuming that they use the stock headlights...they will all bake your headlights in an oven. The baking process essentially softens the glue that holds your headlamps together. After baking the headlights, they pop the glass (or clear plastic) seperate from the back plastic housing. From there, they install the halo lights. Whether you are comfortable w/ baking your lights yourself, or whether you want a shop to do it...is up to you.