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This is likely either the sending unit or the capacitor in the dash main board. If it only started when the temp dropped (not sure how cold st louis gets) the capacitor is likely to blame.

You definitely do have a sensor for that...my 94 does. I'm thinkin, if it's off completely it very well could be in the dash rather than the sensor. I dont think sensor malfunction would cause the dash to go blank...but I too could be wrong.

I remember my dad's Toyota Crown that was imported from Japan had this "feature". Our's started dinging at 105 kph. To disable it we had to locate the dinger and we just disconnected one of the wires on that. As I recall, there wasn't a fuse for this buzzer anywhere.

They all came with keyless entry. If you look on the original keys (except the valet key) you'll see a small button on the narrow side of it. There is also a switch near the mirror adjusters on the left of the steering that disables the built in keyless.

And oh yes...It's real wood....REAL wood. If you look on the back side of that panel what you see is...wood. I know, I know...I was amazed too the first time I took mine out. It's pretty much a plank of wood with 4 clips attached to it. Welcome to the world of Lexus.

Almost bring a tear to mi' eye... Some things will never change I guess. I was under the impression that BMW and MB were getting better with their reliability but...I guess not quite!

Set the seats, mirrors and steering wheel to the desired position. With the car running and foot OFF the brake, hold the set button and press the memory number you want to set it on. You should hear a long beep and you're done. PS: QUIT YELLING AT US!!!

According to this wiring diagram...the amp powers the sub and all of the component speakers as well. Testing with a known good speaker is the most sound troubleshooting you could do but as flanker said, because all four died at once you're probably looking at either an amp issue or a headunit issue. If the replacement amp you got is known to be working properly, the headunit seems to be your culprit.

The computer regulates the fan speed as well as the compressor. I've noticed that the computer regulated fan speeds have about 6 different speeds rather than the 3 we have manually. If you manually select a fan speed rather that usingn auto it will stay at the speed you select.

In the mean time, if you CLICK HERE you can get a pretty good manual that is free. Covers most aspects and also has wiring diagrams. You're selecting the bottom-most link to Auto Repair Reference Center. It has manuals and labour cost calculators and a lot of other good tools. Better yet it covers almost ever car built since the 60's. It's not the official service manuals but a good suppliment at least.

Flashing is compressor problem only. Low refrigerant with simply not get cold.

Everything Lexus after '93 uses 134a.

I had and still have a slight vibration occasionally at high speeds. Mine is related to the warped rotor that I am yet to replace. You could also check on that possibly.

I called the dealer about this when mine broke and they want a whopping $89ca for each one. I found myself a few at a boneyard near me. They just "threw it in" when I bought a caliper bracket for $30ca (at the dealer that bracket is $177) The people there have no idea that those are worth...they just look like a short wire. You could do what I did in the mean while and just tie them off to close the circuit so the light isnt on on your dash. Soldering would not really be an option because if the wire broke like mine had, it's broken right up against the plastic case of the sensor where you cant even see the wire anymore. Other than that you're pretty much looking at replacement through the dealer or a boneyard. PS: As for as I know, any Lexus would use the same sensor so you shouldn't have to find an LS particularly to get replacements.

Hey OmarG, I'd definitely suggest changing the all of the brake pads at once. The next time you could end up damaging your rotors when the one side is done and the other is still good. Also, the brake pad wear sensors can be moved fromt the old pads to the new ones. If you look at the new pads you'll see there is a hole on the frame on one side of each pad. The sensor can be removed from the old pad and put onto the new pad without anything more than a flathead screwdriver. It is held in with a small metal clip. Once the clip is out you can push the sensor out toward the pad side then pass the wire through the space on the side. Reinstall on the new pad using the same metal clip.

Did the wrecked cars look rust free? ;)

Hi SRK, If you could elaborate more on the part where you actually get the pin out of the bore that would be great. The part between ..."You'll have to remove the caliper from the existing bracket, and if you can do that, you are more than halfway to fixing the parts you have now."... AND ..."Just clean the pin with emery cloth or whatever, and clean the bore in the caliper." The whole issue I have is that I can get everything to come out except for the one pin. Any tips on getting the actual stuck pin out? The thing just wont budge. I had to force 2 other ones to move but this one particular one has been a pain in the butt.

I visited the dealership to pick up some touchup paint and while there I asked about getting replacement caliper mounts (this is the term they had in their computer) for my 94 LS. Currently I have a stuck caliper sliding pin so I was thinking if I could not get that pin free, replacing the mount without buying a caliper would be the best bet. The stealer does sell the mount on its own for a whoping $177ca. At that price I could get the whole caliper at Advance Auto Parts. Any idea where I could get the mount/bracket only at a sane price?

My sunroof has started squeaking since the weather has warmed up. It only squeaks when it is closed completely. If I open it just a touch (tilt) the squeak goes away. <_< I've also noticed that there is more wind noise when it is closed completely but when it is open just a touch the wind noise stops. This leads me to suspect that the problem is based at the back end of the sunroof seal. Anyone have some experience with this issue?

Gas tank is 22.5 gallons i believe.

This is a normal feature on japanese luxury cars. All of our Toyota Crowns in Trinidad had this feature. I'd say you take care of the driver door issue. Disabling that system would be messing with a lot of the electronics of a feature you should keep. Not quite sure why it isnt a standard feature here in north america.

They also have electric retractable outside mirrors with a button near the mirror switch.

I have a 94 LS now. What's the price like on ones for mine?

I've had warped rotors (vibration) since i purchased my new LS, about 3 months ago. Just dont have the time to swap them out right now. What will a set of these brembos run me?

sorry my bad .. i mean to say if i put $30 gas and drive the car for about 3 to 4 days like 30 min or so each day on local road thats it its gone any help? At 18mpg which your car is rated at new... 30 mins of city driving should use about .8 gallons...this is all assuming that you drive at least a bit conservatively (not like a crazy racer at every light). After four days you're looking at around 3.5 gallons which is about only $10 in fuel. I'd have to say that you're either underestimating your drive (or driving style) or that there is something seriously wrong with your car. With these numbers your car would be getting around 7mpg. This is all assuming distance because you actually really need to keep track of both distance and fuel used precisely to get any reliable answer.