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This is the original undercarriage...

I dont think it's possible to flood a fuel injected car...

There are cheaper airbags than that... http://www.arnottindustries.com/parts_Lexu...400__yid46.html There you can get them for about 400 each. I agree with what you said thoug...they wouldnt all go at the exact same time so i guess you just need to find the real problem. The pump should be easy to diag cause with the car down like this, it should be running full time to try to raise it if there's a leak in a line. If you go to it and it's not running you can start by changing that. Arnott sells the pump for $300. Good luck.

What've you spent on this phantom problem so far?

Damn...this just got a lot harder to diag. It could also be the pump then. You just need to get it checked out dude. And by someone who knows what they're doing. Perhaps the dealer could figure out what's wrong and, if you're the type, you could do the repair yourself.

Well from your symptoms (assuming that it's the rear end that is still lower than the front as per the first post), it's the line that goes from the front to the back of the car because if it was one rear shock (air bag), then one side of the back would be lower than the other, logically, as each wheel is managed independently. If the front is still up then your compressor should be fine. So in this case it would seem that it would be a bad line/valve that is leaking. Fixing it then, would entail finding a replacement line/valve and installing it. I'd also say you start with the lines because they are cheaper then getting the shocks. I think most of your cost would be in diagnostics. I've done a full transplant and repair (diagnostics, line replacement and shock replacement), and i've also done complete conversions with my father back in Trinidad (we worked on Toyota Crowns...same system). We did leak searched the classic way (soapy water) and it worked everytime. Just takes time and effort. The leak could even be something as simple as an o-ring. There are 2 of those on each screw-in connection. About the prices, I have no idea what it would cost here because in Trinidad we imported the stuff ourselves directly from Japan.

Invariably you have a leak. If any sensor was in err the system would flash normal. There is a height sensor at each wheel that the system uses to know when each wheel is at the correct height (there is always a different amount of weight on each wheel). The Sport Mode instructs the system to stiffen the shocks to reduce pitch and roll in cornering and braking and it also sets the system to reduce the steering power assist. Effect is the same at any height. Airsus was available from the beginning (1990) contrary to what your mechanic thinks he knows.

Nice list here...

That's normal if you subscribed to instant email notification for a thread that is busy. If you want less emails you could subscribe to Daily Email Digest which would send only one per day. I just think that whatever emails he's getting is only what he subscribed to...no one else is to blame.

I just have to say that this is nothing less than HALERIOUS... I work in the IT business and I believe that this is what is happenning when people always say, "The tech support with this or that company sucks." Fact is, many people simply can't follow instructions...but i guess that's why stuff like the "Geek Squad" exist. They themselves are no rocket scientists but they can at least follow instructions and get things fixed. This thread is the most bizarre thing i've ever seen though...other than that family of ducks i saw today walking down a busy sidewalk here in Niagara Falls... that was weird too.

In my area the public library has the dealer repair manuals for many many cars. Perhaps you could try there...

Not sure if you need specifically PDF but this is a full manual here... Not PDF tho...

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/idx.asp?log=...nu=1&wire=0 Eer ya go...

This should go to the primary menu... This should go directly to repair procedures... See how those go for ya...

If you send me the year of your car i'll send a link directly to that car and year to see if that works...

You can add the exception in XP's firewall without going to safe mode. However, the problem would be in your router if you have one, or if you're connecting through a college or work connection.

The site has this note on it: "If you see a login screen when trying to connect to the Auto Repair Reference Center (AARC), you may be behind a firewall. As many of our customers need to allow access through firewalls, proxies, filtering software and other security features, we have a list of URLs that your network will need to have full access to, in order to use EBSCOhost to its fullest extent. This is called an exception list by many companies that produce these security applications. Please add the following addresses to their exception list: ebsco.e-toolbox.com www.e-toolbox.com aarc.epnet.com"

Perhaps you should look more closely then cause it's there... 93>Lexus>LS400>Repair Procedures>Steering and Suspension>Steering>Power Rack and Pinion Or as we try to stress constantly on the boards...Search is your friend! ;)

If we're looking for an attention grabber we need to get this baby into the country...

As long as your calculation of the amount of fuel that you used is correct, yours is invariably correct. INVARIABLY.

The stuff is designed specifically to run in a system originally built for R12 and from all the sites i've read the stuff seems to work without issue. http://www.technicalchemical.com/pdf-files/techtip5.pdf Check that out. I've been reading some forums too and a lot of people seem to say it works fine, just hasnt been marketed too well i guess. I would try it if i need to...

Last winter the heater core in my old Taurus went out and in my search for info on repairing it myself I found a great resource website that I totally forgot to share with you guys.:whistles: http://www.bedlib.org/ebsco.html We're clicking on the blue and green ARRC icon... On this site there is information including repair procedures, service bulletins, wiring diagrams, labour calculator and other good stuff. Best of all it has all that info for almost any car out there from the 60's right up till now! I can't believe i didnt share this earlier! :chairshot: Have fun with this one guys. It's definitely a bookmarker! Helped me out a whole lot. NOTE: for the '90 - '92 LS, we need to go to the '93 listing for the repair procedures...

Dang dude. I can tell you that that could actually be the time it takes. I had to get it done in my beater Taurus and i was quoted about $800ca which is about 10 hours of work. Whole dash has to come apart. So I took a weekend and did it myself! Took me about 15 hours to do myself but dangit I got it done. Not an easy job on a Taurus so I dont expect the LS to be any fun. Had a load of battle wounds on my hand from improvising in there. EDIT/ADDITION: I have a little resource to share with you all. Actually i should make this a new thread and see if i can get it pinned. Click on the green and blue icon... In here you can get info on repair procedures, recall info, woring diagrams, labour, and some other stuff for almost ANY CAR. It's so awesome. Think of having a repair manual and labour computer just like the shops do. ANYWHO...That system quotes a heater core change in the LS at a whoping 12.8 hours of labour. So maybe the stealer wasnt far off. In my search to get mine done in the Taurus tho i found a few people who kinda specialize in heater cores who know some tricks to get it done faster. Maybe you can find one in your area... Good luck tho...

Well essentially, all refrigeration systems are the same in any car and thus, from freeze12.net: "What is involved in a retrofit to Freeze 12 ? The law requires that the existing refrigerant in the system be evacuated and unique fittings and a label be installed with any replacement refrigerant. Also, if the A/C system being converted is equipped with a High Pressure Relief Valve, a High Pressure Cutout Switch must be installed in accordance with EPA SNAP regulations. Use of Freeze 12 does not require that the lubricant or other components be changed." Repeat: Use of Freeze 12 does not require that the lubricant or other components be changed. MORE SPECIFIC CONVERSION PROCEDURE HERE... Thing is, freeze12 is not a complete 'conversion' per se but a replacement for R12. The federal requirements are that there is a different fitting so that it wouldnt be possible to put the wrong gas into the system accidentally, causing possible explosion. Then there's the label to show that it's been changed.

Anyone has experience with this Freeze-12? If I use the conversion kit, what else to do to put this gas? Thanks. Google is our friend... http://freeze12.net/ http://freeze-12.com/