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Found 31 results

  1. Hi, I have owned my 2000 Lexus rx300 since they came out, but I have never tried to do any kind of mechanical work on it. Just not that guy. Well, my alternator just died and a friend said that it was easy to replace. So....I disconnected the negative on battery, now trying to remove the electrical connections from alternator. One with a few small wires inside came off fairly easily, hope I fidn't greak it. The other I have no idea how to remove. I guess that the connector covers the electrical wire to the battery. Do I push or pull or pry it off? None of these sound like good ideas to me. I atttached a photo of it. Meanwhile I located and loosened the pivot bolt. Now I am debating how I am going to reach the other 2 bolts I beed to remove. I watched some videos but ghey did not provide enough detail for me. I would appreciate any help.
  2. My guess would be either the first gen rx300 or the most recent gen rx350 because they have the most ground clearance. Not sure how they all compare with locking diffs, gearing, wheel articulation, low end torque, etc since I only own the first gen. Second question: is the RX a lot worse off road than the LX and GX or are they close?
  3. Does any one know what on earth this button is for?
  4. It seems as though the actuator that moves the passenger's side mirror has become disconnected. Has anyone tried getting into one of these things? It isn't a critical function, but it is quite annoying to have to manually push it out after a carwash or something. It is a '99 if that matters. Thanks!
  5. deremley

    Delayed Engagement

    I have a 2002 rx300 fwd, and I know I am late to the game, but like just about everyone that has posted here, I also had the same problem and (thanks to many of you) the same solution. I had the filter replaced, system drained, new ATF added and everything worked out great (especially saving the 5k on a new transmission). This was about 2000 miles ago (135k miles on the car). This past weekend I drove to DC from Pittsburgh and back with no problems what-so-ever, until I pulled onto my street and all of a sudden the car jerked and the rpms shot way up but the car didn't really move (I think it would go about 25pmh while at 5000rpms), like it did just before it quit completely and before I had the filter/fluid replaced. Thinking that maybe the filter was clogged again I replaced filter/fluid a second time. I should note that the fluid looked like it the day I put it in - still very red and hardly anything in the filter. Now here is the new issue - when you put the car into drive or reverse there is (what my mechanic calls) a delayed engagement. That is to say, after a few seconds the car will finally move. If you push too hard on the accelerator the car will jerk hard and then engage. If you are very easy on the accelerator, if doesn't jerk, but still takes time to engage. Once the car is moving, however, everything is seemingly great. I took it for a test drive on the highway, once I merged into traffic and had the car going about 35mpg it shifted very smoothly. Its just went it idles that it drops out of gear and then has the delayed engagement. My mechanic suggested that it might be the gear pump in the transmission itself, that is failing, and that it is not building up enough pressure when first put into D or R. Any thoughts or guidance here would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Hello I recently purchased an 01 RX 300 with 125K on the odo and in very nice shape. I have one issue which may be several 1.Power mirrors do not work 2.Rear wiper and washer do not work 3.My right rear window will spontaneously drop partially while driving. This happens spontaneously and to different degrees but seems to settle down after half an hour or so. Also there would seem to be a short in the master switch as tapping my knee along side the door will make this occur as I drive also My question: Could this all be attributed to the same cause? Grounds associated with the switch perhaps? Or am I looking at multiple issues here? Any help and suggestions would be appreciated
  7. skaffine

    ISO RX300

    Hi - I am new to this forum. I had a 2002 RX300 for 5 years, best car I've ever owned, just a joy to drive. My husband and I joked that all that we had to was strap in and "Stella" would take us there. I bought it at 60K miles and it was 171K when a 4pt buck interrupted our relationship. I have been looking for a month, (Craiglist,, daily) and I'm THIS sick of dealer d-bags. Does anyone know of an RX300 for sale? I'm looking for less than 150K miles w/ no mechanical issues. Cosmetic issues OK. Does anyone have any thoughts/ideas/other sites to check? Thanks for any assistance you can give. I live in CO but would travel for the right car.
  8. Anyone experienced this problem or know how to fix it? My 2000 RX300 stock Pioneer stereo works with the CD player but there is no sound with either the FM/AM radio or the tape player. You can select Tape or radio but there is no volume regardless of what it says on display. I don't think it would be an amp issue since CDs play fine. I've been thinking about pulling out the stereo unit and resoldering everything but before I do I was hoping for some advice on what it might be and/or diagrams. I've checked and replaced the fuses (they weren't blown) Thanks!
  9. sa3ma4na

    p0420 on 2002 rx 300

    I need help diagnosing what the actual culprit of the p0420 that threw up few days ago. I ran my torgue scan tool and I am adding screenshots for better understand. I am not able to understand the various test. I need some help here. Pic1 is the mod 6 test, pic2 is the freeze frame of the cel, pic 3 is the wave form of 02 sensor bank1 sensor 2 and the last 2 pictures are the waveform of the a/f sensors.
  10. Hi, I'm new to this forum!! I recently brought in my car for an oil change and was informed that I should replace the center drive shaft joint because of failure and to replace the front diff. pinon seal because it is leaking. The charges are a bit hefty and was wondering if theres any alternative to bringing it to a different shop rather than the Lexus dealership. Also, the car tends to vibrate when I drive around 70-80mph and it squeaks when I accelerate and when I drive slowly (backing out the drive-way, etc.) Could this be related to the center drive shaft? Thank you for the help!
  11. slick1967

    My New Ride - Lexus RX300

    Bought this 1999 Lexus RX300 AWD in really good condition. Hope to add rear spoiler and tint back windows dark. Maybe add a body kit eventually. Needs a couple things fixed like the power antenna and a small rust spot on passenger tire. Body is in great condition for age and Michigan miles. It drives and runs really good.
  12. So my trunk was really full and I tried opening my trunk today. Sometimes when it is full, I've had to use a lot of force. This time, something snapped and I no longer felt resistance when pulling the trunk latch. I removed the panels from the inside and took a look at the opening mechanism. The cable is still intact and i discovered how to open the trunk from the inside. However, there is no connection from the latch to the rest of the locking mechanism. When I used force, there was a part that broke. The first picture shows the part that is broken. The black rubber and plastic parts used to be one part. The elongated plastic part used to be inside the car, while the black plastic part used to be behind the latch on the outside of the car. The square hole near my thumb behind the latch is where the rubber used to sit. The last picture shows where the elongated black plastic part used to connect to. The last picture's orientation is looking up. The black plastic part used to lift the silver metal part extending the wire. The wire would then pull the golden part in the third picture to open the trunk. The fourth picture shows an overall picture. If you look carefully at the fourth picture, there is a black cable that runs down the cavity in the center of the trunk door. That is the same cable that pulls the golden part of the mechanism, opening the door. Essentially, the mechanism is no longer connected due to the broken part. The latch is not connected to the first part of the mechanism and thus, the second part of the mechanism is not working and I cannot open my door from the outside. Anyone know where I can get a replacement part and whether I can install it without opening any screws?
  13. 99rx300_17


    I'm wondering if any of the Toyota suv's from a similar year have the chassis as my 99 rx300 so I could install a lift kit
  14. Lexux

    Lexus Rx oil leak

    Hello, My Rx300 (120K miles) has been leaking oil(?) for a while. I have been reading posts in the forum and I guess it is the rear seal? Last time I got my oil changed they used synthetic oil and I heard that oil is more likely to leak if there are any problems with the seals (it was not leaking before). Should I go back to regular oil next time to see what happens? Sorry for the crappy pictures and thank you beforehand
  15. matthewlswanson

    Wrong O2 Sensor?

    2003 RX300. Got the trouble code for the Heated O2 Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2). says I need part number 89465-49075 I believe them so I bought the same exact part from Amazon even though their site says it doesn't fit, thinking the Lexus site will know better. Got it installed fine and cleared the codes but the code keeps coming up every time I clear it. Did I just waste $140? Why would one site list it as fitting and the other doesn't? Could it potentially be another issue?
  16. Hi fellow Lexus enthusiasts. You can skip down to the bold text if you do not want to read the background of my post :whistles: ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I recently drove my 2001 RX300, which I had acquired last October, on a road trip between Chicago, IL and Toronto, Canada between July 16 and July 25. The only maintenance-related issue that had to be taken care of, an oil change, was completed. I took the car to my local mechanic a couple of weeks before we left and I had him test-drive for a few blocks. He stated, based on his observations, that the car ran well and could be trusted to make it to Toronto and back in one piece. With about 137,000 miles, this car ran like a top with no loss of power, no transmission jerking, and got roughly 19-20 mpg the entire way with the a/c running at full blast. Driving around Toronto, my mpg went down, but the performance stayed just as well as it had been along the highway. However, a few days after we got to Toronto safely, I was exiting the highway (the famous Highway of Heroes) and, coming to a stop at the end of the downward-sloped ramp, the Oil Pressure light came on for roughly one second and then went out. Initially, I attributed the light to the steepness of the ramp, but I was disconcerted enough to go back out to the car the next day in the morning with a paper towel and pull the dipstick. I popped the hood, drew the dipstick, held it level to my eye, and my jaw nearly dropped. Yep. The dipstick was as dry as the Grand Canyon, with not even a single drop on it That same day, I picked up a jug of Mobil 5W-30 synthetic at a local auto store and added right up to the top mark on the dipstick (thank god I had a funnel with me). I dreaded that I would have to repeat the process when I got back to Chicago; when I did so (the dipstick was dry again when we got back), I got the same weight, only as mineral, and only added enough to bring the oil level near halfway between the two marks. Again, there were zero issues related to performance along the way back, and it still amazes me that this is possible. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to check the oil level at any stopping point along the way in either direction, so I have no clue what the burn rate is . Here in Chicago, the car often sits for days at a time in the same spot on the street if it's not winter, as I prefer to ride my bike for the fuel economy B). I would have noticed fresh oil spots under my car if there was a leak, and (with the exception of a FEW start ups) there is no smoke coming from the tailpipe either in city or on the highway. To be specific, there is a small amount of bluish smoke upon startup, but ONLY once in a while - it does not happen each and every time the car is started. Yesterday, I went back to the same mechanic to tell him about this little problem. He replied that, as there is no leakage, the engine is burning up oil in small quantity, which was not obvious until my trip. I was advised by him to switch to a heavier oil at the next change to reduce the likelihood of it getting burnt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- A couple of questions to you, for those of you currently running oils heavier than 5W-30 in the RX300: how heavy have you gone without appreciable decline in performance? How heavy is it possible to run and still be able to operate the vehicle in the winter? (keeping in mind that Chicago winters, although not as cold as the Arctic, are certainly powerful) And lastly, is warm-up time affected badly by a heavier oil (both in summer and winter)? Any pointers that I can get are highly appreciated. ^_^
  17. I obviously have a low mileage RX300 since it's a 2003. I'm the second owner having bought it certified from a Lexus dealership back in 2006. I recently moved and found an independent shop with fantastic reviews that specializes in Japanese cars. They've quoted $950 for the 90k service including changing the timing belt. I'm definitely doing the timing belt because mine is 5 or 6 years older than most who were doing their 90k service on this forum. I don't want to risk major engine damage and the car is still in great shape. Aside from regular oil checks (use synthetic oil BTW), my only maintenance costs in nearly 10 years have been exhaust related, ball joints & sway bars, tires, brake pads and a battery. Not sure if it's been a major contributing factor but I'm someone who lets the engine warm up in every season - especially winter - so maybe that's helped reduce engine damage. My question is if I plan to keep the car for another several years should I replace the water pump and thermostat too as a preventative measure and since my car is 12 years old and I probably wont put more than 5 to 8k miles on the car per year. Are there other items you would consider too?
  18. Hello All, So I have been looking at replacing ignition coils on my 2002 Lexus RX300. Found a few places including my local Lexus dealer who wanted $110 each. The Lexus Dealer part is made by Denso. The links below found parts for various amounts. Anybody have any excperience with buying ignitoin coils from other manufacturers: 1) Denso Sprk Plugs from Ebay: $65.95 each.|Model%3ARX300&hash=item3a800a191a&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp 2) Genesis Auto Parts is the store and Brand Name is :Silla: It is after Market Part and is for $16.49 each. However shipping for 6 of these is $48... They ship these indvidually. Go figure... 3) Denso spark Plugs from Local Lexus Dealer: $110 each. Any suggestions or experience my fellow Lexus Users may have would be greatly appreciated. -RX300inCalifornia
  19. Hi, got big problem. Got US RX300 with radio without navigation (blue display). I bought second hand radio form same generation RX300 from EU/UK (right hand drive). Radio has been changed and everything is working but one thing. Buttons on radio (audio, air con, etc.) are not illuminated. When I turn on lights all buttons should lit up (everything else still lit up as it used to) but not those buttons/controls. I believe all LED's/blubs are ok. It looks like there is one wire missing somewhere... Unfortunately I do not see a wire responsible for this function on any diagrams I have (radio/air con/navi/etc.). Does anyone have any idea where I might find and info how radio unit is lit up??? Please help! regards, galtom
  20. I just did oil change and brakes changed for my RX300&2001 Lexus yesterday at Tire Plus, but today the engine check light comes out, i went to auto zone for checking , the code is P0174, then i went to tire plus for fixing the problem, but guy who work at tire plus said the problem is sensor, they said it would cost me around $1500 to replace it, if let the problem on, car can't pass the emission test, so i have to replace it. I refused it. then they said they already turn the light off. right now, do i need to pay $1500 to change it ? whether the engine check light comes out again?
  21. Hello everyone, This is my first post and I need your help badly. My 99 Lexus RX300 won't start. My wife was driving and it died on her. She was able to pull it over to the side of the road, tried to start it again and no go. Lights windows and everything else works but won't start. When you turn the key it tries to turn over but won't start. I thought it was the fuel pump cause it seemed like the same problem I had with my Sebring. Since the fuel pump is easily accessed through the inside of the car and I didn't have to drop the fuel tank something told me that was going to be to good to be true. I turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump start, but still no go. Checked the pressure and that was good. The alternator wasn't giving the battery any power so I replaced that. Hours later and a few bruised knuckles and still no go. Finally I replaced the spark plugs and after cursing everyone who had anything to do with putting 3 of them in such a difficult area still no go. With all that said, does anyone have any suggestions on my next step. Thanks in advance for your help.
  22. USCmagnacumlaude

    A Hamster In My Rx300 Ac Vent?

    Hello All, I'm new around here, hope I'm posting in the right place. I have a 99 RX300 and when I turn on the AC or vent, it sounds like there's a hamster running around its wheel in the face vent. If I turn the fan up higher the noise gets louder, then after about 10 seconds or so quiets down. If I set the air to blow on both face and hamster wheel sound. When I set it to face only it happens. Any ideas? Thanks for your help!
  23. My radio/CD/cassette has stopped working. At first, the passenger side speakers would cut out, but if I briefly turned the volume up, they would come back on and stay on for a while. Then, no sound at all, other than some faint static that would get louder if I turned the volume up. After following other posts on the forum, I concluded it must be the amplifier. I replaced that with a used model from Ebay, no change. Then, I replaced the radio with another used unit from Ebay, no change. Except, I noticed beyond the static, I could hear the radio or a CD playing. But it was very faint. My car has 400K kms, runs great, but if I can't have a radio it may have to go. Anyone have any ideas ? Thanks.
  24. RelicsSticks


    From the album: RX300 Door Panel Removal

    Indicates locations of fasteners

    © 2014 RelicsSticks

  25. I am the second owner of a RX300, which I purchased (earlier this year) from the same dealership who sold the car (new) to the original owner. Purchased car with 99,980 miles, now has 102k miles The car was always serviced at the dealership and they (dealership) provided me a complete service history on the car. As of today, I've not had to have any work done on the car. Therefore, I have zero experience with dealership's service department. Reputation of them is stellar, but I have no personal experience. Recently, we are hearing a noise above 45 MPH which sounds like a wheel bearing going bad. Reviewing the service history, the car was taken in on 2/4/11@89,168 miles for service. 5 conditions are listed at time of service with a R.O. total of $940.53 30K Mile Service Other Diagnosis - NO RAB TIMING BELT REPLACED Wiper Inserts Rear Brake Pads Front Axle - Desc: FRONT AXLE ~|~ C/S: customer states humming noise from vehicle. can hear best at 45MPH or Higher. Sounds like a wheel bearing. Tech 29 test drove when customer stopped by ~|~ Tech reports noise from right rear wheel bearing. Tech recommends replacement of bearing ~|~remove and replace right wheel bearing GOODWILL/SMAP WARRANTY I've made an appointment for this Friday to have the dealership inspect the car, but I have a few questions... What is "SMAP WARRANTY"? (Yes, I tried google first) Assuming the same bearing; what should I expect from the dealership in terms of prior work warranty Assuming the issue is NOT the same wheel bearing; estimated dealer cost to replace? With the mileage at 102k, Assuming another failed bearing, opinion regarding having all other bearings replaced as preventive maintenance? Thanks in advance!