TrevC

Sounds like a brake grabbing....sticky caliper piston or slider. If it's pulling to the left, it suggests that either the right hand front caliper is lazy or the left hand one is grabbing

If the vibration is when the vehicle is driving along then it could be a damaged/worn Constant Velocity Joint or bent driveshaft. Other areas it could be are Wheel Bearing or even a lump in one of the tyres (jack up each corner so the wheel is off just off the ground and spin the wheel slowly while looking between the ground and the tread area to see if there is any deviation within the clearance indicating a deformed tyre or bulge in the tread area. Also check the sidewalls for damage) If the vibration occurs when braking then the rotors are probably warped....easily checked with a Dial Test Indicator. Let us know what you find Cheers Trevor

Sounds good...I think we need more car orientated restaurants. :-)

Hi Zack....welcome to the Forum I would start by checking to see if it is sparking or fuelling.first...if not, then suspect the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Hi John Its always difficult to diagnose the exact cause of a leak especially underneath as it tends to blow it all over the place when driving. I always just clean it off with a Jetwash and once dried, park it up with cardboard underneath to locate the general area and then go in for a closer inspection in that area. The alternative is to use a Smoke Generator and introduce smoke into the crankcase to see where it comes out of. Keep us updated with what you find Cheers Trevor

I would still check the battery terminals so cleanliness and security. If they have corrosion or are loose then these symptoms are exactly what you would expect...

sounds like the internal clutch plates / bands have burnt out .... if so, the fluid will smell of burnt toast and be a brown colour instead of red

It should work....as long as it fits and any electronics can be swapped over

Sounds like the primary cause...battery connections?

Hi Toto...welcome to the Forum Look forward to seeing the piccies Cheers Trevor

Great video of a Lexus RC-F with Twin Superchargers - Initial Engine Start....Enjoy!

Hi Gunnie...welcome to the Forum Keep us updated on how you get on sourcing your ideal Lexus. Good to have you onboard Cheers Trevor

Some manufacturers fit two switches on the brake pedal (not sure if it is the case with Lexus) but worth checking to see it that is the case.

Very nice!

front

Hi Skib...welcome to the Forum You could see if the stop lamps are working e.g. the brake light switch is actually working as if this was faulty it be the reason the system is not recognising it and therefore not starting? Just an idea but worth checking first, let us know how you get on with it. Cheers Trevor

Hi Kevin. If you are getting power to the bulb and the bulb works okay then I would check the earth connection for the tail light unit as that is all it can be. Let us know how you get on with it Cheers Trevor

Here's a link to a search to find seatbelt retraction http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/search/

Hi Maverick It's either battery quality, always stick to a reputable brand from a source you can trust....there have been several cases of counterfeit batteries around (can always tell by the weight - quantity of lead) or it is the alternator....not difficult to check with a multimeter. Should be producing around 14.4 - 14.8 volts with lights switched on. Any lower than 13.8 volts it's probably on it's way out. Also, very importantly, check the battery terminals are clean and tight ! Cheers Trevor

Haven't seen this before but it sounds like its using cameras rather than the traditional mirror reflection.

Bit disconcerting to hear you say the engine is cranking fast. First thoughts are that is has lost some cylinder compression, causing it to turn over quickly. I would check the compressions and ensure that the camshaft drivebelt/chain is correctly positioned. Crankshaft / Camshaft Position Sensor is a possibility as well. Keep us updated on what you find

Hi...welcome to the Forum That sounds rather strange as normally the bias on braking is to the front brakes not the rears. I can imagine it is one of two things... 1. There is excess weight in the trunk which is loading the brake compensator valve and putting the bias to the rear brakes - or the valve is seized/defective. 2. The calipers/sliders or handbrake mechanism are seized and dragging the rear brakes Please keep us updated with what you eventually find to be the problem. Cheers Trevor

The pictures are missing now

Any misfire in the ignition system can cause tremendous damage to the Catalytic Converters (which may the smell of burning) and also it can sometimes track back to the ECU which really would cause further problems. I would concentrate on the misfire in the ignition system first and judging by what you have described, it sounds like water ingress to the ignition coils.

Hi Seth...welcome to the Forum The car sounds like a great deal and I would be very tempted to make the journey to check it out As for OBD, it may be the first generation of diagnostic interfaces and only running the K-Line which would be limited in data but you may be able to get the basic information from it. Keep us updated on how you potential purchase goes Cheers Trevor