flipmode64

Yeah so I went out for a drive at lunch for 15 minutes, brakes worked perfectly fine, so I guess maybe its either an intermittent blocked hose, or a sticky caliper, I'm now leaning towards sticky caliper I guess. Don't have $150 to spend on a diagnostic, and then still have to pay to fix it. I'd rather shotgun it at this point since hoses are $12 bucks and caliper rebuild kits are $6. I assume if it was the brake hose it would be doing it all the time, and I've never read online about a brake hose collapsing and doing the complete opposite of a caliper piston that's always active. I know these cars have master cylinder issues but I fail to see how it could only effect one brake but who knows.

UPDATE: When I first turn the car on in the morning, the brakes work fine for about 2 or 3 stops, no pulling or wheel jerking, then as I keep driving it slowly gets worse until it starts dragging and wheel jerking. Now I'm leaning towards a brake hose or the master cylinder. Would it be the brake hose is screwed and on startup the hose doesn't get "stretched" until a few times the brakes are applied, and then it "stretches" out?

Wheel jerks when braking, Dealer says front ball joints are bad even though I just put new ones on in the last 2 years, but I guess they could be. Would a bad ball joint cause this or should I be looking elsewhere. I have also replaced in the last year, upper control arms, outer tierod ends, control arms #2 (castor arm), multiple alignments. Do you think it would be the balljoints or possibly inner tie rods? Dealer wanted me to pay another $50 diagnostic fee AFTER they aligned it for a 3rd time so I don't really trust what they are telling me at this point. If I jab the brake quickly the steering wheel will jerk to the left about 15-20 degrees. Thanks

Can't find a solid answer anywhere if regular winter steel rims will fit this car. I see people talking about caliper clearance issues but again no solid answers anywhere. Can anyone confirm if they are running regular black steel rims that are 17 inches on 2nd gen RX330? Thanks,

Searched and searched and searched and cannot find differential bushings for 90-92. When I brake at highway speeds my gearshifter wobbles back and forth. Should I be replacing those ADUS505 bushings first, car has 350,xxx km on it. Also there is vibration through gas pedal if I hold the rpms at 1200-1500, anywhere else it is smooth. I'm wondering if that it the U-Joint itself. I read all this talk about people replacing diff bushings but its all the later years. I hve a 94 donor car but I do not want to go through the hassle to remove the whole assembly unless someone can tell me if its a complete matchup from a 94 to 91. Thanks

nothing eh? Lexus $120.00 diagnostic fee here we come I guess.

I have a very fast vibration i can feel in the gas pedal around 1500-1900 rpm, in ANY gear. Some days its there and some days it isnt. 85% of the time it is there though. Owner before me had a garage trying to "adjust" the driveshaft due to this vibration. also had both the tranny and motor mounts replaced. I am pretty sure there is an aftermarket driveshaft on the car. I was going up a hill the other day with window down and it was holding gear at about 1700 rpm and I could hear a constant metal clanking noise that was bouncing off the curb and back in the window which i could hear, sounded like somthing was metal grinding or clinking together, which i assume is related to the vibration in the pedal. I also notice that if i am driving slow (20-30kph) and speed up just a bit and then completely let off the gas, somthing makes a clink under the car basically where the tranmission is, which is assume is the transmission. Any ideas what this could be, or what I could try/test? Thanks!

anit roll bushings, struts and mounts, and end links on the back end were replaced a year ago, but the noise was there before I had those changed. Now it has gotten even louder. What else could I check here?

Have had the rear end clank for a long time now, but now it is very loud and sounds brutal. If I am at a stand still and I jump on the gas the back end goes down and makes a metal clank. I have replaced the rear sway bar bushings way back when that was supposed to be the cause. What should I be looking at now? Thanks

Could be the traction control... when it is cold out mine makes that noise 10 times and then the TRAC light comes on. other days when its warm it wont come on or make the groaning noise at all

Hey everyone. Been doing a lot of searching on here and other lexus sites and google and I think I have narrowed down my problem but I am not sure. Everything has been fine up until this morning. Turned the car on and 5 lights are now staying on the dash. Pic attached. Car drives fine, nothing wrong with shifting like I have read that the loom in the trunk can cause. I checked the loom and from what i can see everything looks fine. I have a multimeter and and wondering how I go about testing each wire with that as I could cut a little off to expose each wire. wondering what readings i should read when I touch each wire. All fluids are fine. Battery is holding a charge at 12 volts and it is 6 months old. I hear it is usually the black or white wire in the loom but no cracks or anything on each of the 180 degrees bends they go through. Should I cut the bends out and attach the remaining together? Drove the car for 45 minutes and checked battery and its at full charge still but I read that this still might not rule out the alternator? Power steering res. doesnt seem to be leaking and everything in the car works fine except CC (cruise control) I think I can narrow this down to either TRUNK WIRE HARNESS LOOM, BATTERY, ALTERNATOR ?? Do you think I should cut out all the bent parts on the loom to start? any help appreciated thanks!

Still hearing this noise coming from the lower back. Struts and mounts have been replaced. and sway bar links. I noticed on RockAuto website that there is a gasket or something called "Coil Spring Insulator" Could this make that noise? The noise sounds almost like dropping a golfball in a bucket of water where it makes that "ploop" noise. But if i drive over rough ground or grass and sounds more like somthing rattling. It is really driving me nuts and makes the car sounds like a piece of junk really. Can anyone list off some things that I can try replacing that are cheap? Thanks again.

took to garage this morning. said its the struts, they have leaked all the fluid out of them. i now remember that in the trunk under the CD changer the little compartment underneath it had green fluid in it that i moped out of there, didnt put 2 and 2 together. They quoted me around 575 to fix it. I am going to get a complete parts list from them after work and then will probably order something off ebay. or what do you recommend i replace while they are doing this? Are the KYB ones any good I see on ebay? What does everyone recommend? Thanks

So I've been tapping around the underneath of the car last few days with rubber hammer. If i hit the gastank in certain spots and i can hear something rattling above it/on top of it. When I hit a bump and the back end makes a noise it has to be something fairly heavy as it clunks. What is above the gastank that could be rattling? Any help appreciated!

I have ruled out the gastank, taken off the rear sway bar bushings and put back on again. If i push the exhaust (at very rear) fairly hard towards the rear left tail light I can make it smack off the heatsheild, or its the headsheild hitting the sparetire cavity to the left of that. Doesn't seem loose or anything (heatsheild). I wedged cardboard inbetween muffler/heatsheild/sparetire cavity so it was tight, and there is still noise when driving slow over uneven ground, and I am fairly sure anyways that the noise is coming from a 1-2 feet towards the front of the car from that muffler area. IT IS DRIVING ME NUTS