nc211

YES!!! If it's not for sale by a Lexus dealer, then take to them to run the vin number for service records. I agree on the 98, nicer interior modifications too "wood". But, same suspension woes. Most people who sell these cars are usually motivated by 3 things, in this order. 1) Needed repairs cost too much 2) Which usually leads to buying a newer one 3) But need to sell it for financial reasons. Any LS in the 75k+ mileage range is going to need some suspension work done. Just the nature of the beasts. It's the main flaw of the cars "or asset, depending how you look at it." With our help here on this site, you can fix it for around the same prices as most american cars. Go the dealer route, and you'll be broke inside of 30 days.

bicol-ini, I'm curious what tipped you off the flex-couplings were bad? Did you have a wierd wobble type vibration?

My brother had a 87 dodge shadow when he was in college at Indiana University. There was a paper factory in Bloomington that put some sort of crap in the air...it did the exact same thing to his paint job with little pits. My 95ls is black, and the roof has little white pits in it as well. It's a super soft paint. Good to buff out stuff, but easily scratched.

Bicol-ini, did you get two for $145, or were they $145 each?

Ed, being a new member, and I assume new to lexus, let a 95 owner tell you what to expect.....Put $2,500 - $3,000 to the side for new parts. You'll need them, trust me. If it feels loose and noisy, the control arm bushings are shot, and probably most parts in conjunction to them. Also, do the "off throttle shock" test. Drive at 40mph and gently take your foot off the gas. Does the car "buckle" at all? If so, the car's main computer has the dreaded flaw and will need to be replaced / repaired. Mine did, as do some of the 95/96 owners. They're awsome cars, no doubt about it, but like said before, it's a decade old and is going to require new parts. Just depends on the previous owner. Mine has 100k on them, and my signature will tell you the parts I've had to replace. But, I must admit, it's been a true labor of LOVE. I look at it like this, for way less than a Kia, I've got a like new super sedan that will last another 10 years / 100k easily!

Oopps, forgot attachment. Here it is...

Morning all, sorry for delayed response "don't have internet at house, on it all day at work". JPI is half right, I did all the fronts myself "uppers, lowers, struts, outer tie rods." Had new ball joints and strut rods already. That whipped me and had no more strength for the rear. So I threw in the towel and paid for the labor for the rear. The part I did not replace is #10 in the attachment. I simply didn't see it when ording my parts via ArmyofOne connection in Texas. Pachocco, it's your struts causing the dive/squat. I had it too, replaced my fronts = no more dive, but still had squat. Replaced my rear struts=no more squat. I dare to say it gave the car a more sporty feel, less body roll, less swaying and pitching. The $630 was for labor only. The lurch is reduced quite a bit, but not completely gone. I'm positive bicol-ini is right. I think "JPI, correct me if wrong" that if your rear differential bushings are torn like mine were, then your flex-coupling are probably toast as well. I think they go hand in hand, when one goes, the pressure on down the line to the other components increase that much more. If it's bad enough to rip the last two components, then I can only imagine what it looks like up the line. I have not replaced them yet, but they're on my list now, and soon! But even still, it's really reduced, still there, but reduced by about 50%. Doesn't snap your head back anymore, just feels like a 10 year old rear wheel drive car. Pachocco, mine does it too at startup only, and even worse in winter. I honestly think it's the temp of the flex coupling matched by the amount of torque being sent down the propeller shaft at that higher idle. The LH side you mention as really bad, I assume that is the driver's side? The rear differential has one bolt on the passenger side that attaches to the frame, and it helps to reduce the torque load on the other differential bushing. That's why that one doesn't get as bad as the driver side. I began to notice the ride starting to go south around 88k miles. But really started to notice it get loud, loose, harsh and floaty around 95k. I bought it with 84k. "Had dealer do 90k service as condition of purchase". I just turned 100k this weekend. With these new parts on now, she drives like new. But, I can REALLY tell now that my tires are way out of balance. With no more free play in the parts, that vibration really shows. Off to the dealer for a balance job. That is the only reason I take it to the dealership, they seem to know how to do it the best. It's been 5 months, so I think I'm due. The improvements in the ride and control characteristics these new parts made lead me to believe the ride was going bad before I bought it. You see, I really have nothing to compare it to, just the results. I would have to say that at 77,000 miles, your struts have lost their composure and are ready to be replaced. The "bounce" test doesn't really expose the true condition. Mine passed it, but now, wow, what a difference. By the way, all my parts are oem, no aftermarket. Next up: Flex couplings & brakes... PS: Many thanks to Bicol-ini for the tip on this website many months ago! Party on amigos!

LOL!! But, you got to love the incompetent crooks! They make it so easy to nail!

Man you must, you're recommended by a LOT of people on this site! You ever head out my way, let me know!

Agreed. chalk that one up to too much coffee. It was rude. My apologies.

forgot....that bill also included a 4 wheel alignment.

Fixed! Just got it back, started it when it had been sitting for a while, idle was high, put it in gear, and a very noticable REDUCTION in that lurch. Now I'm not sure if it was the struts, strut rods or diff bushing because I had every control arm in the rear replaced, plus new struts in conjunction to the diff bushing. But, she's a smooth as glass now. No wobble, no shimmy. I did look at the old diff bushings, the driver's side one was damn near ripped in two. Car feels much much tighter. They did have to remove the rear differential however to get them out, but said it was only a 2.5 hour job. Total bill for 6 control arms, 2 struts and 2 rear diff bushings....$630 Not bad if you ask me. 10 old parts removed, 10 new ones put on. I'm ready for another 100k. Blake, I'm comin' for ya' son! :D

That's ok guys, some lessons in life are reserved for specific types. Nothing you can do, it just takes all kinds to make the world go round. Hope you like pain kid, cause you'll meet it someday w/o that seatbelt. That is, if you're lucky and you're not dead. Hope you enjoy unwanted attention too, because you'll get it with a face full of scars from the windshield. And let's not forget having to file Chp 13 bankruptcy when you insurance company dumps your a*s on the medical claims because you weren't wearing your seat belt. You won't even qualify for a Blockbuster video card son. This will most likely be your last Lexus.

JPI, I'm curious, do you see a lot of those differential mounting cushions "bushings" go bad? The dealership guy told me almost never, but I didn't have the utmost confidence in his diagnosis. Seemed to be a young guy straight from training. Said my "clunking" noise in the front was actually my brakes! I'm tempted to take the car over there this week and show him my new control arms I put on myself and invite him to drive it for himself....no more clunking. I'm having my diff. bushings replaced today, driver's side is torn pretty badly. I've got 99,500k miles on my 95.

Flash, good timing on your question. The car is at the shop today to have all the rear control arms, struts and those rear differential bushing replaced. I'll let you know the results soon. They're a real booger to get out on your own. It's beginning to be seen by a lot of us that the drivers side bushing gets the brunt of the force from the differential. I also think it might be the propeller shaft's flex couplings. I agree with Blake's response as well, but I'm wondering if the high rev's simply put too much force on the worn out couplings, more so than the lower revs would. Hopefuly the mechanics will get the bushings replaced today and I'll post up the results. I'm also getting hard up shifts now too, like their is a gap somewhere in the line causing a thump whenever the pressure changes down the drive line.

Like all have said, both are great cars. It is my opinion however the ES is just a car. While the LS is a true machine! I like the 2nd generation models the best (95+) due to the changes in the interior, but that's just my personal opinion. There are lots of guys here who like the 1st generation models better. It's really just a personal opinion. Blake and I have the exact same car, 95' black with tan interior. He's got something like 200k miles, I'm about to turn the 100k mark. His looks better than mine, hands down. So, if that doesn't say something right there about how awsome these cars are built, I don't know what does. Trust us, you want the LS. If you get the ES, I'd be willing to bet you'll be sitting at a stop light in it, see an LS and say "why didn't I get that one instead?" Gas mileage really is a 6 in one, half a dozen in the other type of reasoning. Although the LS has a V8, as you noted, it rarely revs above 2500 rpm. I drive around town and almost never go above 2000 rpm. The car simply doesn't need to, it's plenty fast. V6 engines have to rev higher to obtain their power bans, higher revs = more gasoline being consumed. Case-in-point, my 4.0 liter V8 gets 21/26. My last car was a 2001 Maxima SE 3.0 liter V6, it got about the same mpg, but was much louder, buzzier and a very rough ride. But, must admit, she sure could take a turn like a bat out of hell, and that was fun. If you put your foot in the V8, it will get thirsty however, but trust us, it's worth it ;) You can't beat 8 pistons revving up and launching you into the fast lane. Just can't beat it.

The reason why you don't see them complaining about this on the bmw sites is because they're too busy complaining about all the other stuff, like electrical, exhuast and so forth....BMW stands for Better Maintain Weekly. Have had 3 in my family circle of trust, 89 325ci, 97 525, 2004 745. All three have displayed the electrical integrity of what I would image a Russian built Dodge Shadow would have. Well, you get the point. Throttle tip in does exist in the Toyota brand. It has for several years. It's really about the only complaint you can honestly have about the cars. Others are just personal. If you want to experience the tip in on your BMW, set that I-control thingy to turn on your interior lights, lower your back right window about 2/3 the way down and engage your cigerette lighter. That should confuse the computer enough to think it's ready. BUT by all means, don't adjust your driver's seat at the same time, you might engage the air bags and ejector seat. Just playin'! Cheer:

Hey Craig, I would have to agree with SWO3ES on this one. But, do you really want to give up that nsx as well? The LS I can see, and agree with "sorry loyal fans". Nothing lasts forever, and hen-pecking problems can and does get quite ANNOYING! My 95 is going in tomorrow. If affordable, I'd trade the LS for something else, and keep the NSX. Those are sweet cars!

That also depends on what year your car is. Diazen's aren't available for 95+ model years. Wish they were though, could have saved me a ton of money! I'm figuring if this is the first time you've heard about the bad bushings, I'm betting it's your strut rod bushings. $700 sure is expensive for that. YOu can get them new online for less than half of that. It's 3 bolts for each. No real major work to get to them either. But, that's if it's a 95+ model.

Mine is the same way, left side has more wear than right. If you look at it when the gar goes into gear, I bet you'll see rips on the left side of the rubber. It definetly sags too. Once I get the dirt out of my finger nails from last weekend's chore, I'll probably hit them again. Funny to see a 31 year old guy wearing a suit with dirt crammed into his fingers. Hahaha.

My normal guy took off on me, I'm screwed! Anyone know of a good guy here in the triangle that works on Lexus cars, and charges an honest rate? I'm so tired of mechanics who run to the shop manual and price off of quoted time only. I had the back seats out for my new struts, all that needed to be done was 4 bolts on each side and I would do the rest. Was still quoted 3.2 hours labor, even though I had 75% of it done already. Any suggestions from the Carolina guys?

I tried to muster up the energy to hit the diff. bushings, but simply was too dang tired. The dealer told me a while back that these rarely ever go bad, simply because the torque these cars generate isn't enough to really damage them. But, mine are torn a little, no doubt about it. I was so sore from the front work, I could barely walk around. I had to throw in the towel for another day. They are very tough to get out, but I have no doubts they can be done without having to remove the differential housing unit. I think a posilock 2 ton gear puller would work, just has to have a wide stance to get around the crossmember. I was too tired to mess with it. I proceeded to kick a few back with friends on the boat and watched the world float by. It's bikini season down here now!

You'll love it. As for things to look out for, on that model years, the dash board lights tend to flicker out at higher mileage, $275 to fix out of dealer, $1,000 + at dealer. Do a search for "dash lights", you'll see it. Also, do a search for "clunking noise". All of us have to deal with control arm bushings going bad. They're soft rubber and tend to wear out around 100k. I'm not sure what age vs mileage comes out to in this area, but you'd be best served to understand it first. Other than the normal routine stuff, they're GREAT cars! What can be better than having a world class, top of the line super sedan for the price of a used Kia? Just takes a little patients, some understand "that's why we're here" and a love for an incrediable car. Some might say "I do" that these are best cars ever built!

Yep, I would have to agree. Welcome to the club amigo.

Lexus400, did you figure out what was causing your vibration issues related to this older thread?