nc211

Here is a clip from the manual. Look at item #6 and the chart. 3.pdf

What year and how many miles on your car? Strut rods in the front could be the problem. I have same problem on my 95 w/ 98k miles. I replaced sway bar bushings "no luck", then replaced the front strut rods "no luck". Finally, I bit the bullet and bought all new control arms for everything. Uppers, lowers, front and back. Will have them put on next weekend. Are you getting a "clunk" noise when hitting a bump, or a dip in the road making the suspension compress pretty heavily?

The manual states certain temp. ranges and driving conditions for use of either 5w or 10w.

To answer my own question. NO, the gear shift knobs can't be swapped between the two different models. GS is smaller than LS.

Got a 87 300 Z Turbo that needs some parts. Since we're the lords of the boards around here in regards to hook ups like Sewel and so forth. Was wondering if anyone knows of a good place like that for Nissan parts? Looking for a website style set-up like the lexusparts site. Thanks gang!

Mine is on the passenger side when you pull up the carpeting on the far right wall. Very easy to see. don't know if it's different for earlier models.

I was beaten into submission by the very first bolt! :cries: You really need an air wrench to do this job right. Those bolts on the control arms have been in there for 10 years, and they're not coming out with out a fight! I had the car up on jacks, and pulled, pushed, yanked and begged with the first bolt. But, the car was wobbling so much on the jacks that I didn't feel safe doing it. So, I packed it in, went to the store, got some beer with my buddy, and sat on the porch and watched the world go by. I've made a deal with my mechanic who has a shop at his home as well. He's got all the right tools. And, two home computers that don't work worth a crap and no idea how to fix them....so, it's a "scratch my back, I'll scratch yours" type of setup. He's taking the car next weekend, and I'm taking his computers and will wipe them clean, rebuild and tweak out. Funny thing, it's not my finance degree or other professional designations that matter the most. It's my knowledge of computers from being a computer geek for the university while I was in school many years ago. Hahahaha. I had the entire business school faculty using Napster when it was free. You could tell how the markets were doing that day by the music coming from the finance faculty lounge. Market down = Ray Charles "Busted". Market up = James Brown "On A Good Foot".

We've got a 98 GS300 in our latest shipment of repos. It's got that wood trimmed gear shift knob. I've got a 95 LS400 with the leather shifter. Can the GS fit my LS? On the surface it looks identical is size and shape. Can it be unscrewed and put on mine in that simple fashion?

That makes sense....but, what about when the sun has heated up the inside of the car to like a 100, but it's 60 outside and the temp setting is set at 66? That's what I don't get. I get the part about keeping it warm inside when cold out. But keeping it hot inside when it's nice out, that baffles me "which isn't a hard thing to do by the way "

Here is what I don't understand about mine. When I turn the car on, and say it's like 50 degrees outside, but the temp setting is in the 60's, why does is default to the recirculate setting ALL the time? I don't use the auto button, don't like the drain the ac pulls when it's not needed. But why does is always default to the recirculate setting, even in manual mode???

I'd check with autozone before buying all this stuff. You might beable to borrow them. Well, once again I was defeated this past weekend with my chore. I couldn't even get the 1st nut to come loose on the upper control arm. So, in typical southern fashion, I packed it in. Went to the store, got a 12 pack, and spent the rest of the day cussin' at the car. I've decided to work a deal with my local mechanic. He's going to put all my parts on in exchange for my computer skills. I'm going to redo two of his home computers and make them fly! I figure that's a good deal. He's got that air wrench set up. Oh well.

I was going to do that, but checking the digital camera last night I came to the sad realization that the battery is toast :cries: . It won't hold a charge at all anymore. It's a cannon snapshot. I will however post up a description on how I did it with pdf. files from the manual. I went to Autozone last night and "rented" a pitman arm puller, ball joint seperator, and a few other gadgets. If you're already aware of this service from Autozone, disregard my blabbering. If not, check out their website! You basically put down a deposit "purchase price" and then when you're done, bring them back, and they refund your money back! Saved me about $150. The uppers don't look too bad from the files. It's basically 3 bolts: Two with the bushings and the one that connects to the steering arm. I'll post up on Monday. I'm also doing the shocks, rack mounts and hopefully the rear differential bushing mounts. I attempted the differential mounts once before, but was defeated due to improper tools.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=2 Altenator = $222 http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=1 upper control arm = $282 Control arm is easy as pie to do. Alternator I'm not sure about. But, if one control arm is bad "bushings toast", then you can pretty much bet all the others are on their way, if they have not been replaced. NOW, having said this, you're model is the Generation 1. And, there are other options for that year for these bushings. There are aftermarket ones for a lot less. Diazen is the company. Do a search and you'll find them. If you're a DIY type, then I'd keep the car. If you're not, then expect to pay for repairs. I've got a 95 w/ 98k miles. I'm switching out all the control arms this weekend on my own. Nothing too intense. But I love my car, and know it will continue to run for many many many many more years under my care.

I did this too. But I downloaded each part ".pdf" file, put them in order and then burned them to a CD. I also printed them off on my company's printer on a sunday afternoon when nobody was here :whistles: It took up a lot of toner, and fills 4 large 3 ring binders. But, A MUST HAVE!!!!

Army, thought I would update this thread. I'm goin' in this weekend, one more time for those differential bushings. Got a wicked little tool from Autozone "2 ton jack puller" that I think will work from the back. Also, got all the parts in from Homer. All in all, it came out to be right around what I had expected, about $1,750. Not bad for: 4 Upper control arms "front and back" 4 lower control arms "front and back" 2 rear strut rods 2 outter tie rods I'm also installing new shocks. She should be perfect after this. All suspension parts will be new...or at least until the check engine light comes on and requests another $500 for egr pipe. Hahaha Any word on your deployment? What did you settle on for a new car?

Yo, your problem sounds more like the ECU unit. I've got a 95 also. Let me guess, that hesitation "stumble" you feel while driving around town is in the 40mph range? You take your foot off the gas and the car jerks a bit. If this is it, it's your computer. This is a very common problem with the 95 and 96 models. Do a search for ECU. There is a thread on here about car stalling after highway drive, same issue. It's a big thread, you can't miss it. My 95 did this too, had the dealer eat the problem. Out of all the TSB's issued for our model, this is the only one that is highly recommended to be done from Lexus. You're feeling "Off Throttle Shock."

After the cost of the new parts.....the cheapest beer next to paps blue ribbon available! Hahaha. The only thing all LS models require are new suspension bushings around the 85-100k mark. You learn on this site where to go, and you'll get parts at 50% off. True OEM parts too, no knock offs. You dump $1,600 in the car, and it's fine for another 100k. I've got 98k on the clock, and she's a dream machine. I've had to replace the lower ball joints, motor mounts, tranny mount, rear differential mounts, front strut rods, shocks and had the dealer eat the ecu main computer due to a flaw in the 95 and 96 models. I got him with his 3,000 / 90 day waranty on that one. That was huge. Had them do the 90k service at tiem of purchase as well "timing belt, plugs, water pump etc.." that was huge as well. Basically, the parts that need to be replaced, are the parts you would expect to need replacing. The suspension components are all attached to the frame with soft, rubber bushings that wear out after 100k. Unfortunetly, our models don't allow for just the bushing replacement, but the whole control arm itself. The Generation 1 guys "89-94" have that option, but we don't. I wouldn't worry one bit about the car sitting for as long as it did. I've got a 1973 full size caddy, 7 litre engine, straight pipes and all original, with only 14k original miles. She fires right up! Drives like a beast, sounds like a monster, and grabs the attention of everyone who sees her. It was my dads, and it reminds me of him. It's also the year I was born. Age v. mileage doesn't matter too much. If a chevy can last that long, a lexus can last 100x longer, no problems.

Whew, glad to hear that!! I've blown all the dough I can on the suspension parts. I figured the springs should last a lot longer, I couldn't see any real reason why they would go bad, unless the car sat on them only for a long time and compressed them down, which is where new shocks come into play. Good deal....thanks man.

I'm curious, how long until I should look into new springs for my 95 with 97k miles? I'm putting on new shocks this weekend, but I didn't even consider the springs. Should I be thinking of them too? Or do they last longer than the shocks? She's driving like a boat on a trampoline these days. Thanks all

LexusLooker.....don't forget the beer, when you're all done and can sit back with a bottle of the suds and admire the machine. 14k miles on a 98? Man, I'd have to say that's a real find! I'm jealous. I though my 95 with 84k miles was a steal last year. Yours blows mine out of the water! Wanna trade? ;) Have fun this weekend. I too am doing some work on mine. Going to change all the control arms and shocks. She's ready for some new parts. I can't wait to drive her with the new bushings and such.

I'll let the other guys chime in on this one, as to each is his own with this. Although, it could be a dirty intake, or something else like that. But it is my understanding that 98 and later models have the electronic throttle set up. A friend of my firm has a 99, and he's had it in the shop a couple times to fix a funny shifting pattern when turning a corner at slow speeds. I think once you get used to it, and learn it a bit, it's not that bad. But he drove my 95 a few days ago, and liked it better. I drove his, and like it, didn't notice it too much. But, I also had my foot in it a bit too, since his has that vti engine with more horse power. I think if you noticed it that quickly, then it might bug you quite a bit. It seems like all toyota's have this problem. When I drove a 04' ES about two month's ago, I noticed it right off the bat.

Monarch, I agree with you 100%.

kzam02, curious, was that done at the lexus dealership? that doesn't sound too bad for an alternator and battery. Not to mention labor.

Factory specs. I think it's the Type IV??? I just know to use factory spec tranny oil only.

Welcome to the electronic throttle setup that most post 98 models have. Have you test driven any new toyota lately? They have it too. Is it like a "1/2 second" delay, like it's thinking, thinking, thinking, then WHAM, it goes? I think there are some software updates at the dealership to download into the computer, but I'm not sure how successful they've been. Guy in my office has 05' Camary...does the same thing, hates it... My dad just bought an 05 Solara conv. for a retirement gift to himself, does it too, hates it. I've had the es and rx models as loaners from the dealership in the past, they do it too, I hate it. Just personal opinion guys, don't jump on me too badly. Many like it, or don't hate it enough to complain about it. I like the old school set up myself, of a cable and a throttle, no computer brain in between trying to think about it first.