nc211

I think my mufflers are next on my list of things to address. How long to the cat's usually last? I noticed on my lexus dealer service history print out that a "charcoal cannister" replacement was done at 40k miles. Is that related to the cat's at all?

Army, here are the attachements from the PM. I replied to that before I read this thread. I'm at 27609 zip. Nice hook up on the web link too, it's not exactly the same location I've ordered from, but same prices it seems. I've gone the hoyfox route in texas. But if Homer can get even better, all helps for the beer fund to install these myself. Hahaha. Who da' man? You da' man!

Yeah they did, said everything was fine. Also said they fixed my vibration problems too, of which they obviously didn't. Had a young kid as a tech and I don't think he's up to snuff on the cars yet. I've decided to just shoot the wad and buy all new control arms all around the car, as I'm sure that 's what it is too. I've cirlced them with new parts, and still getting the problem. They're the only things left.

Oops, yeah, it's #5. Probably gonna need #8 as well. Probably need outer tie rods too. Basically, nothing on the car has ever been replaced other than what I've done. I plan on keeping this car for another 150k miles, so a couple grand spent, stretched out over a few more years really isn't that much.

If you can get the upper's for that price, heck, I'll take the lowers too and maybe the backs as well. I'm really getting worn out with fix one thing only to wait and fix the other later. I think I'm just going to get all of it at once, fix it all at once and get back to enjoying the car. So, if you can get the hook up on all the control arms, I'd be in your debt forever "and citi banks" hahaha. I've got the shocks and of course those rear differential bushings to put on as well. Gonna get those rack mounts too. She's a 95 ls4. Thanks Army

HAHAHAHA!!! I agree with you COMPLETELY on our traffic! It blows! Mine's got 98,000 miles on her. I hate to say it, but I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and replace the control arms. I've got no choice anymore, they're toast.

I have a 95, had it for about a year, bought it with 84k miles, now have 98k. Wonderful cars, but do have some issues. Nothing mechanical, engine is beautiful. It's the suspension that gets expesnive and needs attention. All the mounts in these cars soft rubber, and wear out over time. In our situation, it's time over milage that degrades these mounts. In mine, I have had to replace: ecu(1), engine mounts(2), tranny mount(1), rear differential mounts(2), front strut rods(2), lower ball joints(2), shocks(4) and I am now going to have to replace the control arms. That's what gets expensive, those control arms aren't cheap. Looking at probably $1,600 in parts alone. Unless you're wealthy enough to pay mechanics to do your work, I highly suggest reading this forum thouroghly and become a do it yourself type. Stay away from the dealer if at all possible! When all done and said for, even with the cost of the parts plus my loan payment, it's still cheaper than buying a new car, or even a lease payment with only 12,000 miles a year allowed. I love my car, and you will too. Just understand, you'll need to do some work on her, as you would on any 10 year old car. They're not completely indestructable. Welcome to the club! You're on the gravy train now.

:cries: crap. well, there goes another $700 hit to the card. Are the uppers usually the first ones to go? That's where the clunking sound is coming from primarily. I'm probably going to do the install work myself, since I've got the repair manuals now for the car "5 three ring binders worth". How can I tell if the back ones are going too? I don't hear any clunks, creaks or anything of that nature from them. I'm in Raleigh, NC. Thanks Army!

Hey Army, you mentioned something about the rack an pinion mount sometimes goes bad. I'm not really sure where that is, or which part it is. If it's in this attachment, can you tell me the #? Is it #2 & 3? Are they hard to spot underneath the car? I've got the new shocks now. Going to check this mounting thing out this weekend and see if it's that. If not, then I think i'm in trouble for some upper control arms. From my understandings, the gen2 upper balljoints can't be replaced on their own. So I figure if I'm in it for the bushings, then might as well get the ball joints too, instead of an aftermarket bushing set. Thanks amigo

How quiet should they be? I've begun to notice on my 95 that I am hearing more and more engine noise. Do you guys with the 95 and 96 models hear you engine hum at about 80 mph range? Or are your engines virtually silent. I'm wondering if my exhaust system is begining to go. I'm getting a low hum into the cabin.

Ok, here's my problem. My 95 has begun to fall apart it seems. The car wobbles and shifts from left to right at speeds below 80mph. It smooths out at faster speeds. Although my rear differential mount bushings are bad, the front seems to be causing problems too. I've read about the bushings, and tie rods. But I can't tell which one is causing the problem. *When I pull into a parking lot, turning the wheel, I hear very noticable "clicks" coming from the wheel area. *I have a "clunking" noise up front on bumps, especially on dips in the road where the suspension compresses down. *I am feeling thumps in my steering wheel, and the car feels like it isn't tracking very well with relation to the steering. Sort of wanders. *I'm feeling every bump in the road. I'm feeling the road noise, and not just hearing it. *But, the tires are in balance and in alignment. The car does not pull, it just wanders, steering has very loose feeling. Feels like the front wheels are on very tight. * Have severe vibration/wabling/shaking in the car. Especially on smooth surfaces "smooth black top" under 80 mph. Here is what's new: New lower ball joints, new strut rods. Shocks are ok, but got new one on passenger side. Have new oem's to put on this weekend for the rest of the car. Rear carrier bushings replaced. I can't figure out if the wobbling could be the tie rods due to that clicking and twitchy feeling in my steering. Or if it's my control arm bushings that are causing the parts to wiggle around? I have no idea what a bad control arm bushing looks like. If it is the bushings, and I'm thinking it's probably time anyway "98k miles", is it better to go the after market route on the uppers, or replace the uppers with oem arm due to the upper ball joint? Can the upper ball joint be replaced on it's own? Thanks all.

I agree, and I am very very jealous! I paid a few thousand more for mine last May, with 84k on the ticker and it needs a few thousand to make perfect as well. Good deal! Clear title I take it? I can run carfax for you if you like and let you know. Send me PM of vin # and I'll reply with data.

Hay? How in the world did you get hay in your grill in LA? Man, that must have been one hell of a party! Just kidding.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Anyone with 430,000 miles on anything gets my attention! Thanks bicol-ini. Just saved me a ton of money! I assume the fact that it's not that lexus soft rubber, but harder plastic doesn't kill that lexus ride too much? Don't really care if it does to be honest, it is 10 years old after all.

Oopps, got my numbers mixed up. So you're sure they'll work on a generation 2 ls model. Not questioning your wisdom, just confused because they say they're for 90-94 models, even the adus 505, of which is in my car, sold by the dealer now as a repair kit.

Hey bicol-ini, how goes it these days? That part number was the same for my rear carrier bushings i had done a month ago or so. Will they also fit the control arm bushings as well on our gen II models? If so, that would be GREAT because I'm freakin' going broke over this car.

PS, my little * diagram shifted over to the left. Sorry. The first one should have the 1 * on the right side, representing the passenger side.

Update & Question: I have not replaced the bushings yet, simply have not had the time. I am going to attempt to do it again next weekend. Got a question however with regards to the differential mountings. I was looking over the repair manual last Sunday when I noticed that it looks like there are 4 screws the differential uses to mount to the car. I only saw three the last time I tried to get those things out. The two screws that mount the differential to the bushings on the crossframe "pain in the !Removed! to get loose!" and only one to the underside of the car, on the passenger side. I did not see one for the driver's side attachement to the underside of the car. I'm wondering if the reason why my driver's side bushing is so torn up is because it's missing another mounting screw to help support the thing? Am I making any sense? It's like this front of car *screw mount to underside ** bushing mounts to cross member Back of car. But shouldn't it be like this? Front of car * * Screw mount to underside ** Bushing mounts to cross member back of car. Thanks all!

It could be anything. I seriously doubt it's a rod knock if you've maintained the oil changes. I mean, you've changed the oil at least more than 3 times ever right? It's some bolt or something. Go have a mechanic look underneath it.

the sound of pending engine death.....throwing a piston through one of the piston walls. :( My guess however is something has wiggled loose. A component or heat sheild or something like that.

They're great for 120mph+ on Red Mountain Expressway!

I'm not military, and I've been with usaa for years.

Or even load up on some credit cards and shift the debt over to them. READ THE FINE PRINT on the back, particulary the MIN. PAYMENT %. Example, I received a Capital # application the other day at 3.8% fixed for life. But when reading the fine print on the back, the MINIMAL payment is based on 3% of the balance, has nothing to do with that low interest rate. If you're even 20 minutes late on a payment, it automatically jumps to 22%+ and minimal payment jumps as well. Example: My credit card I have now, with a $10k balance has a minimal payment of $200. Higher rate, but lower required payment. If I had transferred that debt to Capital #, my minimal payment would have jumped to $300. So...read the fine print. You just need to find a way lower your cash outflow issue for a while. Don't trash your credit, you'll being paying for it for years and years and years. Everything you try and finance for the next 3 years will cost you nearly double. And don't call those debt consolidation companies either, they trash your credit as well. Borrow from friends, family, whoever. You've got a SOLID case against your insurance company amigo. Rock solid!

Mike, do you own your home? Got any equity in it? If so, how about a home equity line of credit to payoff the car loan? Then payoff the heloc when you settle the case. This way, you're stretching out the payment terms beyond the 5 year or so "I figure that's your term?" and making the monthly payment much lower. You could even include the fees for the loan in your "hardship" portion of the suit.

Heat shield on cat converter loose?