I just replaced my front pads yesterday, and since the rotors were fine I left them on. A few thoughts:
- The components are extremely beefy and substantial. Better than on any car I've owned and done a brake job on, including a 1998 5-series BMW and a 1998 Jaguar XJ8. Impressive stuff inside. No wonder these things stop so well.
- The electronic wear sensor is very similar to what BMW uses, except in this case it starts to wear well before the pads are worn. If I had known before I bought the pads, I would have simply removed the sensor and strapped it to the undercarriage and let the car go another 10-20K miles. But since I had the pads I just replaced them. If your dashboard wear sensor is illuminated, that means the sensor is worn and you'll need to buy a new one. I simply reused the old one as it hadn't yet worn through. On my car the sensor was on the passenger side (USA model).
- A traditional caliper depressor does not work due to the unique caliper design. I sort of used a prying method on the old pads while still in the calipers to depress the pistons (4-pistons at that!).
- I didn't bother measuring the rotors with my micrometer as they were barely worn. I guess the pads are pretty soft, and the rotors hard. This is unlike a BMW where when the pads are worn the rotors are shot as well.
- You'll definitely want a seperate stand to support the passenger side caliper while you remove the wear sensor.
- If you've done front pads on a modern car the LS430 will be easy enough, although it is in many ways different than any front brake system I've ever done and I've done a lot of them.
- Paid about $50 for the pads, I went with OE (not to be confused with OEM as so many people do).
- Pretty straightforward job, I could probably do it in well under an hour if I hurried, although I do have a comprehansive set of tools and some experience working on my own cars.
- My old cotter pins were in good shape so I reused them, a good thing since I didn't even know they were used for the LS brakes.
- So for an hour or two of work, even a novice can DIY an LS430 front brake job for well under $100.
FYI: A cordless electric drill with a 3/8" square drive is a huge timesaver when removing or replacing lug nuts. I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to start them, then speed them off with the drill used like an air-driven speed wrench. If you have an air compressor at home this won't help you, but I don't so it's a huge timesaver. And since I already have the cordless drill with socket adapter out, I use it for speeding on and off the caliper mounting bolts (which on this car are extremely long and beefy).