mikey00

Also don't forget new front OEM pads come without the wear indicator. You should have purchased this along with the shims.

I have to agree with both the previous posts. It is a great deal compared to what Lexus would charge and slightly high for independent but not bad. I just had my brakes done (indepenent shop) for $315 (new pads and machine rotors front and rear). If I were to add in $300 for new Lexus rotors I am up to $615. My timing belt was done at the Toyotas dealer for $320. I didn't do the water pump but figure another $200 (my best guess) if I did. That's $1135 total.

My RX is a late build 2001 and I am under the impression I am subject to both the engine sludge and trans issues. At 60K I decided the "lifetime" fluid was looking pretty dark and smelled burnt. I started a 15K drain and fill schedule. I am now at 121K and the fluid looks pretty good and the trans shifts like new. I plan on sticking with this schedule and keep my fingers crossed that the frequent fluid changes compensate for the design flaws in this transmission. There is a lot of discussion here about pros and cons of drain and fills verses flushes but I bet over time the end result of a 15K drain and fill schedule is about the same as a 30K flush schedule. A flush has the advantage of getting every bit of fluid exchanged but at the risk of moving some debris around. It also has the added cost of flushing and additional cost of about 6 extra qts of trans fluid which are wasted in the process. Others who have had flushes done reported being charged for 16 qts. of fluid and the trans only holds 9.7 qts dry fill. This may vary for others who have had flushing done. Drain and fill has the advantage of being an easy DIY procedure without any additional cost for flushing machine or wasted fluid. It has the disadvantage of only getting a little over 1/2 of the fluid out. I get about 5 qts. out using both drain plugs. At least the trans is designed to trap dirt in the pan so you are draining the dirtiest part of the fluid. So after 2 d&f all the fluid is exchanged but not really due to some mixing in between. It would be interesting to see if after a few hundred thousand miles a trans using one method is any different than a trans using the other.

bluestu, Is it safe to assume that your statement "even Lexus now acknowledges that the RX transmission needs to be flushed to prevent failure" is inaccurate? It looks like your info came from dealers with flush machines not Lexus. My 2 local Lexus dealers do not do flushes and see no info from Lexus about the requirement you mention. To use your words, it looks like all your info is based on "speculations and assumptions".

I would first pull the battery cable for a few minutes to reset all the electronics. This may get things going.

I now have 121K on my 2001 RX AWD. I usually buy a new car by this time but the RX is still feels like a new car with very little maintenance to date. I think I will hang in there a while longer even with the sludge and trans possibilities. Plus I really don't like the style of the new RX. Now if Lexus gets a version of the Rav4 things could change. Service so far: Brakes twice. Just pads first time. Pads and resurface rotors second time. Tires twice. Cross Terrains both times and will use again when due. "D" light out on dash. Need to get to that someday. PIAA wiper blades once. Replace some bulbs (side marker, center mount brake light, Tail light) Replace battery with one from Costco. Timing belt @ 90K Done by Toyota dealer. No Water Pump. Everything else has been fluids and filters. I am a little overdue on the plugs but will get to them soon.

Where exactly does "Lexus acknowledge that the RX transmission needs to be flushed to prevent failure". Are you sure you are not confusing "Lexus" with some dealer with a flush machine trying to maximize profit. Also the earlier model RX had transmission failure early on with low mileage. Many 2001+ have long since passed that mileage without failure. So using words like "Obviously" and "Duh" does not make that an accurate statement. I have 121K on my 01 with only drain and fills and I am sure it shifts every bit as smooth as your flushed trans. I will stick with D&F. My reasons were pretty much covered by RX in NC in a post above.

Brake Quiet is made for use on non-shimmed pads.

The Lexus/Toyota OEM pads are ceramic and they are made by Akebono.

Thanks EDBRO for the help and it does sound very difficult but i think i will give it a try because this light is also out. Just to make sure i am talking about the indicator light on the actual gear shifter that says P R N D 2 1 Please let me know if you can help and thanks again. Yes, that is what the How-To refers to. Usually, it is only the "D" that goes out as that is in use the most. Are you saying that all your lights are out? If so, then that is another problem like a fuse or loose electrical connector. The how-to is for changing out the bulb, a very common problem with this car. Mine is out also, but the other lites (P,R,N,2,1) still work. It doesn't bother me. The How-To you keep referring to is for the "D" light on the dash, not the shifter. I did hear of the problem before of the lights going out on the shifter but don't remember the resolution. You may want to try using search here and over at CL.

I pretty sure the RX 300 has Toyota Long life red which is good for 30,000 per the manual. My 2000 and 2001 both definetly had this. Toyota now has ultra long life pink which is good for 100K. If I partially fill a bottle with water, heat/cool cycle it daily for a 100 years is it still water? What components do they put in anti-freeze or coolant that "wears out" or changes chemical composition with long term use? Don't know, don't care. Maybe it's not a chemical wearing out but some other reason the change is required. I am just quoting what Lexus, Toyota and other companies claim. I stopped using the Toyota stuff when it got up around $20 a gallon. I get Prestone from Walmart for about $6/gallon so a coolant change is fairly inexpensive insurance. But along with a coolant drain and fill comes the possibility of a vapor lock/"air pocket" being left somewhere in the hoses or engine and not long after your engine is TOAST...! I have been doing coolant changes for 40 years on my private vehicles without toasting any engines. I have also never heard of this happening to anyone or discussed on any forums but I guess anything is possible. You may have a greater chance of getting get hit by lightening after a coolant change.

I pretty sure the RX 300 has Toyota Long life red which is good for 30,000 per the manual. My 2000 and 2001 both definetly had this. Toyota now has ultra long life pink which is good for 100K. If I partially fill a bottle with water, heat/cool cycle it daily for a 100 years is it still water? What components do they put in anti-freeze or coolant that "wears out" or changes chemical composition with long term use? Don't know, don't care. Maybe it's not a chemical wearing out but some other reason the change is required. I am just quoting what Lexus, Toyota and other companies claim. I stopped using the Toyota stuff when it got up around $20 a gallon. I get Prestone from Walmart for about $6/gallon so a coolant change is fairly inexpensive insurance.

I pretty sure the RX 300 has Toyota Long life red which is good for 30,000 per the manual. My 2000 and 2001 both definetly had this. Toyota now has super long life pink which is good for 100K.

Thanks for the suggestion! I appreciate it. Did you actually do the work yourself, take it to a dealership, or a private shop? Just wondering what people are doing here. Also does anyone know if Akebono provides the OEM pads to Lexus or is it a different manufacterer? Both my original pads and the replacements purchased from Lexus were made by Akebono. There is a manufacturing number stamped on the pad frame which traces back to Akebono.

Irontoad.com and newlexusparts.com

http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/side_markers.htm

It is fortunate that the piaa refills fit the lexus blade assembly. I have been using them about 2 years now now and do find them to be the best. You may have trouble finding just the refills at most dealers. I had to order mine. Buying just the refills makes the price a lot better. I don't know if I would get them if I had to go for the whole blade assembly. The refills won't fit my other cars so I just get Michelin blades at Walmart.

It's normal for the ECM to prevent the trans from shifting into overdrive with a knock sensor code. It is recommended that you change both knock sensors, a very labor intensive job. Others have gotten away with just changing one. Do a search in this forum on "P0330" for lots of info.

You can check and change( if you haven't) the cabin a/c air filter and clean/service your a/c element.Dirty filter leads to dirty air and dirts on the a/c element thus reducing a/c efficiency. The simplest fix, to improve A/C performance dramatically and get better FE, is to go to Home Depot and purchase a water flow shutoff valve to put into the hot water hose to the heater core. Turn off the how water flow and your automatic climate control will still try to use the reheat/remix mode but no airflow heating will result. I am curious if you have tried this and if it works well. My understanding has always been that the A/C is always pumping air cooled by the same amount and the temp is maintained by re-directing some of the max-cooled air through the heater core. And, of course, the blower speed is also varied. I thought at at max cool setting no max-cooled air is going through the heater core and as the temp reaches the desired point some of the air is re-directed thouugh the heater core which maintains your set temp. Yes, exact description. But, Lexus is "about" .....comfort. In any mode other than MAX COOLING, minimum temperature setpoint, the airflow will NEVER be cool, COLD, enough to discomfort you. This not only results in an exceedingly LONG passenger cabin atmosphere (and materials) cooldown period on a HOT day, it makes the A/C extremely inefficient overall. And yes, I have tried it, sort of... My 92 LS400 has a water flow control valve that is actuated in synchronization with the (reheat/remix) blend door. I guess the LEXUS beancounters got control before the RX series came along. Oh, and don't forget to take the system out of recirculate long enough to purge the HOTTER atmosphere within the cabin. Then return the system to recirculate. So if the A/C is not able to cool the cabin when set to max cool then the valve will not help being that the air is already bypassing the heater core. I would be interested in trying this but it seems like cabin temp would now go below the set point being that it can't re-route some of the air through the heater core to maintain set temp. The only regulation would be blower speed. Dan, Did you recharge the A/C yourself? Too much freon will cause poor performance.

You don't have a trans problem. It's normal for the trans to not shift into overdrive when the CEL is on. You need to determine what's causing the CEL. Get the codes read and post back.

You can check and change( if you haven't) the cabin a/c air filter and clean/service your a/c element.Dirty filter leads to dirty air and dirts on the a/c element thus reducing a/c efficiency. The simplest fix, to improve A/C performance dramatically and get better FE, is to go to Home Depot and purchase a water flow shutoff valve to put into the hot water hose to the heater core. Turn off the how water flow and your automatic climate control will still try to use the reheat/remix mode but no airflow heating will result. I am curious if you have tried this and if it works well. My understanding has always been that the A/C is always pumping air cooled by the same amount and the temp is maintained by re-directing some of the max-cooled air through the heater core. And, of course, the blower speed is also varied. I thought at at max cool setting no max-cooled air is going through the heater core and as the temp reaches the desired point some of the air is re-directed thouugh the heater core which maintains your set temp.

Are you using a new crush washer on the drain plug? If not that is your problem.

Looks like awgneo hasn't logged onto this site since he hosted the file. I just sent him a email asking if he could re-host the file as a PDF. Every place I host it from expires in 7 days.

It expired on yousendit.com, but looks like it's still hosted by awgneo in the link he provided in his post.

Why don't you just order online from irontoad.com. Your air filter is $13.66 and cabin filter is $16 (same part #s as above). Brake pads are still only $45 per axle. Why ask for a quote for parts that are listed online. newlexusparts.com also has them for about the same price.