mikey00

Alright, I give! I can see I'm not going to get anywhere with this one. Here are some more fun (maybe)facts: Despite an overall decline in pickup truck market share, two of the top five most popular new vehicles among American women in 2001 were pickup trucks (RL Polk, 2002) Most popular SUV's among women: Ford Explorer followed closely by Jeep Grand Cherokee According to Ford Motor Co., women have influential buying power. Females influence 80% of ALL purchases and have 95% veto power regarding automotive purchases. ( maybe I can blame it on the wife ) (Automotive Service Council) You do realize this info is from 2001.

Quote from recent news article: "Jan Thompson, vice president of marketing at Nissan North America, talked up women car buyers as Nissan's luxury brand, Infiniti, unveiled at the New York show a concept version of its upcoming EX crossover SUV. In fact, Thompson hopes the EX, which will slot below the slightly larger Infiniti FX SUV when it arrives in U.S. showrooms by the end of this year, will garner the kind of attention from women that the Lexus RX has. With a starting price, including destination charge, of $38,115 for a 2007 model, the RX crossover SUV has long been the No. 1-selling Lexus -- car or SUV -- and women have been more than half the buyers." It would really be interesting if you could tell how many of the male buyers actually purchased for their wife. Female ownership maybe more like 90%.

It's my wife's car. It's a known marketing fact that it's a "chick" car.

They are most likely talking about the "front speed sensor" which is part of the ABS. It lists for $220 and you can get it for $180 at newlexus parts.com. The odds are that they caused the problem when they repaired the trans but that would be a difficult thing to prove. My first reaction would be to suggest that you go elsewhere as suggested above. But I think you need to analyze this and do what is best for you in the long run. AAMCO is the one who is providing the warranty and they are the ones you have to deal with if you have any trans problems and at this point you can't really be sure that you don't still have some trans problems. I would recommend you pay them the $240 for the speed sensor and have them make it right. You are still getting off cheaper than those who had Lexus do their trans. At least that way you will be on good terms and if the tranny is not working properly, they should fix it. You could show them the printout from newlexusparts.com and ask if they mind if you source the part to save $60. But what if there are still some tranny problems and they claim the part is defective. Then you are in the middle. Might not be worth the $60. you tried to save.

what is emule? anyway what i need incase i cant get a repair manual, is to really know how to change the two belts step by step? pictures would help. i really dont know any of this, thats why a manual would help. but im not sure where to upload it to. thanks again. The belts are not as easy to change as one might expect. Also the belts last a long time. I have almost 120K on mine and they show no sign of needing a change yet. The best way to get this info is to use the search function on this forum. Here is a link to what you want: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...442&hl=belt If you still want the repair manual, I think I have found a way. You have to supply your email address. If you are not comfortable doing this you can create a temporary one at yahoo or any free email site. You can use the PM (private message) function of this site if you don't want to put your address in a post. I will upload the file to a site called www.yousendit.net. They will email you a link to download it. I haven't used this service yet but it looks good and is free for files under 100M.

ummm I dont know. Like what? Where would you upload to? A 20M file is too large for email. You would have to have space on some type of server or subscribe to some sort of service that would allow me to place the file there and then you would retrieve it.

I have it but the file is 20M zipped. Do you have some place I can upload it to?

Do you have a source for the info on the OEM pad being a bendix? The pads that came off my 01 RX and the replacement pads that came from lexus with lexus part # were all made by Akebono.

From the manual: 1) Remove cotter pin, cap and axle shaft lock nut. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheel(s). Remove fender apron flap. Drain differential fluid. Remove bolt and ABS speed sensor. 2) Disconnect tie rod end from steering knuckle. Disconnect lower ball joint from lower control arm. Mark differential flange, axle shaft and center shaft for reassembly reference. Remove differential-to-axle shaft mounting bolts. 3) Using plastic hammer, disconnect axle shaft from axle hub. Push front axle hub outward, away from axle shaft. Using pry bar, remove left axle shaft. See Fig. 2. Remove right axle shaft bearing lock bolt and snap ring. See Fig. 3. Remove right axle shaft.

Lexus pads are only $45 per axle for 2001 RX from Irontoad which is actually the online front for Thompson Lexus. I get over 70K on a set. If you do a search you will see that geting over 70K on Lexus pads is not that unusual.

No maintenance required. It is part of the fuel pump located in the tank and the rear seat must be removed to get at it.

Most likely IACV. Just do a search here for "IACV" for more info than you will ever want to know.

I am not doubting the advantage of cross drilled and slotted for high performance use. But I still don't see a benefit for a RX used in normal everyday use. I am approaching 120K on my original rotors with my second set of Lexus pads. The rotors have never been turned and show absolutley no signs of warping. The brakes have always performed well and I have never experienced any brake fade or overheating. Even the drive down Pikes Peak has no negative effect. My stopping distance has always been limited by the tire/road surface contact, not the brake performance. You also have to factor in the ABS system if it's not disabled on your RX. Even if I could install some system to double my braking power at each wheel my stopping distance will still remain the same due to the same tire/road surface limitation. I suppose I could take my RX out on the highway with one foot on the brake and one on the gas and at some time would reach a point where my brakes would become less effective. At this point I would expect the higher performance braking system to be an advantage. Even with agressive driving I don't expect to reach that point.

A quote from Car Bibles about brake rotors: "An important note about drilled rotors: Drilled rotors are typically only found (and to be used on) race cars. The drilling weakens the rotors and typically results in microfractures to the rotor. On race cars this isn't a problem - the brakes are changed after each race or weekend. But on a road car, this can eventually lead to brake rotor failure - not what you want. I only mention this because of a lot of performance suppliers will supply you with drilled rotors for street cars without mentioning this little fact. "

Here is another "how to" on draining transmission fluid with a good picture of the additional drain point. In this case he is referring to the place where the additional trans fluid is coming from as the front diff. As I said before, they seem to be used interchangeably on these forums. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...t=transfer+case

I don't think you are missing anything here. That is what it says but....... There has always been a lot of confusion in this area and I think the main reason is the interchangable use of front diff and transfer case. The front diff has gear oil and is drained and filled using 2- 15/16" plugs. I think they are blue and yellow and located higher up on the front diff. I can not speak with experience about the front diff. I have not changed mine and the preceeding front diff info is from posts I have read and believe to be true. Now the transfer case uses transmission fluid and gets it's fill from the transmission. I have changed trans fluid 4 times now. The first time I didn't know about the transfer drain plug and just drained from the transmission pan plug. Then I found out about the transfer case drain plug and used it along with the transmission pan drain plug the next 3 times. It drains almost another quart of dirty fluid and your fluid will definetly stay clean longer when this is drained. The transfer case drain plug is mounted vertically 6" directly behind the transmission pan drain plug, facing the passenger side front wheel. Both are 10mm hex, both use the same crush washer (Toyota part # toy9043018008) and both will drain transmission fluid and both get replenished from the same source. If you want to read more do a search on "transfer case" in this forum to read all the conflicting information. Even a case where 2 Lexus service reps gave conflicting info. Hope this helps. Mike

Thanks for the link and the techniques. I have been changing brakes, master cylinders, and other items like this for more than 20 years so what your words are confirming what I suspected. I should have prefaced my comments with requests to confirm anything UNUSUAL in changing out the brake pads. Btw, what are most of you using for replacement pads? Lexus or from the FLAP? Gary I was very pleased with the original pads which lasted over 70K, had good stopping power, no squeel, wore evenly front to rear and had very little dusting on the wheels. So when it was time to change I ordered Lexus pads from Irontoad. The price was right and they came in 2 days. I do remember seeing posts in the past from others who ordered aftermarket pads from Rock auto and were very pleased. You may be able to save a few bucks if you go aftermarket.

That's basically it. But you do have to move the shims from the old to the new. You also need to remove some brake fluid and compress the piston back into the caliper or you will never be able swing the caliper back down after putting in the new pads. You should also use brake grease on the shims (comes in nice tear open and through away packets). Caliper pins should also be cleaned and lubed and the rubber boots checked. One other nice to know thing. If you are using Lexus factory pads, the front ones come without wear indicators. These are small spring clips that are easily transferred from the old pads. This is true for the 300 and is most likely the same for 330. Some of the aftermarket front pads have the wear indicators as a permanent part of the metal pad frame as does the Lexus factory rear pads. Here is a link to a how to that describes the process a little better: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...1695#post551695

Yes I do have a RX300 but I am pretty sure the 330 is the same. Mine does have a front and rear diff both with gear oil. Problem is on this forum the words "front diff" and "transfer case" are often used interchangeably. I think I would have been more accurate if I said transfer case. This is actually where the additional trans fluid drains from.

Don't forget to also drain the transmission fluid that's in the front diff when doing a drain and fill. It's the vertical drain plug behind the main drain plug. You will get out almost another quart of dirty fluid. The front diff is replenished from the regular fill at the transmission dip stick tube.

That link goes to a site that sells the sensor for $143. Where is the ebay one for less than $100. I can't find one on ebay for any price. Unless maybe its not under that part #.

these sensors, air/fuel, 2 each for your engine are toyota made, their toyota part # is 89467-48011, if u search ebay using that number u can get them for less than $100 each, these sensors are made by denso ,for toyota,and their part number is 234-9009. i believe the toyota part number is clearly stamped o the sensor. Your search suggestion does not work. Do you have any more info?

Before you rush out to get the code read check the obvious. You didn't by any chance check the air filter and in the process knock the hose off behind the air box (common CEL problem). How about the gas cap? Is it on tight? Try pulling one of the battery cables for a few minutes to reset the code and see if it returns. If it does you need to get the code read. Some AutoZone’s will do it for free.

Never heard of this one. But the first thing I would try is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and reconnect. You might get lucky.

Download the factory one for free. Remember copyright laws may apply. http://www.unc.edu/~scorcher/1999/ How is this one for a 2000 RX300? Or is there a specific manual for each year? 2000 is almost exactly the same as 1999. 2001 brought minor differences but the manual is still basically the same.