mikey00

hmmm....used non-Lexus gas cap and have CEL. I don't know what type of replacement gas cap you used but If it were me I would suspect it first. I don't know what your time is worth but it might be cheaper, easier and quicker to try another cap rather than trying to find someone to read the codes for you. Caps are cheap. From $3.46 for a Gates at Rock Auto to $15 for a genuine Lexus at newlexusparts.com. Cheaper yet, if you have a friend wuth a RX borrow the cap and try it. You also may want to try resetting the light by pulling the EFI fuse for a few minutes.

Don't remove the nut. Once the calipers are out of the way the rotor should just about fall off. Sometimes it's rusted a little. Try tapping with a rubber mallet. Also there are 2 bolt holes in the rotor. Buy the proper size metric bolt at Home Depot and thread it in to push off the rotor.

CC didn't work for me either. You have to use BB. It took me a while to figure that out. how can i get the programming instructions for a new valet key? i have the original, but have lost all the master keys. thanks Here you go: http://www.toy-lex.com/programming11.html

You need to clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). Do a search, or click on the pinned starting problem thread at the top of this page.

It's really no harder than an oil and filter change. Maybe easier. I would swap the sensors as long as you have them out already. I only had the reverse problem. My logic in swapping them was that if a sensor was bad the symptom should change. But cleaning fixed my problem. I will list the steps from memory. Remove air box top cover. You need to remove a couple of electrical plugs and 1 hose connection to do this. Remove air filter media. Remove 3 bolts at inside bottom of air box (note 1 is longer) Loosen clamp, left side of air box. Air Box can now lift out (notice grounding wire under front right bolt that grounds to trans) 1 sensor is directly under air box the other faces the battery at a 45 degree angle. Remove the sensor electrical connector. Remove the 12mm bolt that holds in the sensor. Twist and lift the sensor (it is only an o ring holding it at this point) You should find some metalic fuzz on the end of the magnetic sensor. Clean this off. Lube the o ring with a little trans fluid and replace. Reverse above steps to put back together. Check this link out. Lexmex posted a picture of the sensor on a removed transmission. Also read my post at this link about different versions of this sensor. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354197

I just need to clarify that you bought 2 of the same part number even though Rock Auto lists that there is only one in the car. Would you still have the part # ? And once again what did you remove to get at them? Thanks, Mike 1.) Yes, 2 identical sensors BECK/ARNLEY Part #0905024. Inside the box, the sensors are labeled with Toyota genuine parts sticker #89413-24010 2.) Remove air filter box It seems like they have only 2 of these left in stock. Does anyone know if this particular part # would work for a 2001 RX300 also? I've tried googling our year and the part specifically and don't come up with anything else. The only way to tell which sensor you have is to look at one of them. See the link. You need to buy the one to fit your wiring harness. I was going to buy replacements but just cleaning worked for me. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354197

I would definitely try those sensors on my own before I went to any "Trusted" transmission shop. Of course I don't have any facts but I would bet that 99.999% of cars diagnosed at a transmission shop need a rebuilt transmission. They are in business to make money and also to have satisfied customers. It hard to make either target by cleaning/swapping/replacing sensors that are questionable. Time is money. If you had a diagnostic code that indicated a sensor failure, that is a different story. You don't have a code, so we are dealing with questionable parts. The sensors list for about $100 each. So if a shop were to change both and also charge $100 to $200 labor and it did not fix the problem, you would not be happy.

Definetly try swapping the 2 speed sensors, it fixed my problem. However don't just swap them, but also clean them while you have them out. The sensor removal is a pretty easy job and my cleaning just consisted of wiping with a q-tip. I suspect these sensors have something to do with the large number of transmission failures. Once they get dirty the transmission starts to have the reverse problem and the 2nd to 3rd shift problem. If you catch it early enough and clean them you may save your trans. If you continue to drive your trans in this condition, you will eventually destroy it.

Or download the factory manual. "Anyone wanting a copy of the 1999-2000 RX300 repair manual, here is a link: http://www.esnips.com/doc/9641c41a-4...-Repair-Manual This is a 40 Mb or so big PDF once you use RARZilla to open the compressed RAR file."

Go to the Car openers. they are great. they cut my master key and my wallet key for me. You have to take a photgraph of your key or give your key code. it takes like 5 days. mind you i live in canada. prolly fasteri f you live in usa. Terence Can someone give me the name of an ebay seller who has these blank keys with transmitter , that you'v delt with before.. This isn't the ebay seller you asked for but they do have a decent deal. You can get a replacement shell and blade cut to your key code for $40. You just need to put your electronics into it and you are good to go. Or if you need the new electronics also it's $145 complete. http://www.toy-lex.com/store/index.php?act...at&catId=24

Something to consider: Others have reported fixing the 2nd to 3rd shift issue by either replacing or just cleaning and swapping the counter gear speed sensor, and the turbine input sensor. The dealer told one of these posters he needed a new trans before he discovered the repair. Read through the currently active transmission threads for some of their input on this. These sensors have been reported to cause the 2nd to 3rd shift issue and the reverse issue. I can only confirm my own experience with this. I had the reverse issue, which is when put into reverse it acts like it is in neutral then finally reverse engages with a clunk. After getting some information from their posts I pulled both of these sensors, cleaned and swapped their position. My thought was that if a sensor was bad and cleaning didn't fix it, at least by swapping it I should have a different symptom. My reverse problem is now fixed. I am convinced that if I continued to operate my trans in this condition it would eventually self-distruct and then I would need a new one. Is it possible that these sensors are playing a bigger role than we realize in these failing transmissions? Both sensors were dirty and I just used a q-tip to clean. It is a fairly easy job that is no more diffucult than a oil and filter change. Both sensors are located on top of the trans under the air filter box. The air filter box must be removed to gain access to the sensors.

In comparison with my 00 I'd say it isnt. I run 87 all the time and notice no pinging or other problems. I feel for those filling up with 91/93 these days. I ran nothing but 87 octane in my 00 and now in my 01 with no pinging or other problems. I have to agree something else is going on here.

Good summary. Amen from me too. For some reason this thread took a turn that we have not seen on the RX forum before. Whatever it was lets hope it doesn't return.

It is important to do an oil analysis on new oil also. That gives you a relationship (visual etc), non-linear on the oil being used. You do not need this but it would help in some areas of understanding fluids utilized/applications. I give "snide" replies if you want to call it that, since I have been on this forum long enough and not going to educate folks (been there done that; do a search since these are old Q&A). Not my job and frankly, with the invention of the internet you can learn it faster stepping up-to-the-plate on their end. In fact go to yahoo and type in UOA oil and you get what it defines in about 1.1 seconds. What I find is, well do a search since I have posted it time and time again. To summarize most here will not be doing due to price, understanding or play the "time" game. I just got another one (UOA) back but do not bother posting them. Look on what the outcome of it is. As noted before, when some resort to pushing the "degree", some fancy dollar amount etc, it is all over and not on track. I am being nice here too just giving short direct answers. Next, I give answers since so far I have people saying smell-a-vision and color are pretty fair detectors. Define "fair" since I do not know what that means and for the record I have tested black "smelling like crap" fluid and tested fine (not great/new but had life left). Same with engine oils, hyd fluids and gears. Using these are not wrong, if you have endless $$, time and you are one step above guessing; have at it I say with this non-scientific processes. At least use a blotter test (free people, notice free) since it seems UOA price is one factor I try and stay out of most fluids posts on forums but when people post comments like "an oil additive like Amsoil" what the heck are people posting this flat-out wrong info. I do not even bother with people saying the manual items are needed for warranty. Ditto on everything tmastres has already said. I stated I was very familiar with oil analysis and got back from you “How can you be "very familiar with oil analysis " but do not know what the "U” is for? They are intergral to eachother “. Well I still stand by my statement. If I go to the Amsoil site it is called oil analysis. I can’t find the “U”. Does that mean amsoil is not familiar with oil analysis. Amsoil provides a link on their site to a testing service. Again no “U” on that site. Maybe they only test new oil. A quick google of “oil analysis” is absent of the “U”. Are all these labs only testing new oil? My point is that the “U” is not integral to oil analysis. There is no need to post back to me with large type (I don’t appreciate them) pointing out some sites that do use the “U”. I am sure they exist. Many thanks to all those who participated in these discussions with me in the past. We may not have always agreed but I least I did sense some respect in the replies. My posts in the future will end with “Please no responses from current or former Amsoil dealers” unless management shoots me down on this. Mike (as in Mikey00, please don’t confuse me with any others)

Boy, some posts here are getting more and more comical. How can you be "very familiar with oil analysis " but do not know what the "U' is for? They are intergral to eachother.....The term UOA is about 30+ years old and has zero, that is ZERO to do with any product type in question. <shacking head> Case in point, I never said any product was the best here. OEM fluid is overpriced for what you get; just like most OEM fluids. I can't help but notice, from your posts here and on other threads, that you strongly support all the products sold on the corporate Amsoil website (Amsoil, Foam engine cleaner, Trico wiper blades, etc.) It looks like they have the best of everything. I only say "best" because the products have "more good stuff" and you are "getting more". I wonder if there are open territories in my area. Now I am the one finding this "comical" and have a "<shacking head>", whatever that is.

UOA is a new one on me too. I am very familiar with oil analysis but am not sure what the "U" stands for. Even google comes up empty. I think it may be a term the Amsoil dealers use in their marketing training.

A 2001 with a towing prep package required 3 things to get the trailer lights to function. I am assuming 2005 is the same and you are using the factory setup and not splicing into existing llight wires. First you need the pigtail that plugs in under the car and runs to the hitch. Second you need the control module that mounts up in the spare tire well and plugs into a connector there. Last you need to add the a fuse in the fuse box.

hhhhmmm... could you please explain more on how that works? :( Here you go: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kas295a.html

Is your clock truly stuck at 1:00? Or is it resetting to 1:00 every time you start the car? If it is stuck at 1:00 and you never see it advance to even 1:01 I doubt very much if it is the battery. The normal failure mode of the RX battery is the resetting to 1:00 every time you start the car. A battery almost always fixes this scenario. The battery will test fine and even pass a load test but you will find if you change the battery it will fix the clock resetting. Now if your clock is actually stuck at 1:00 and never advances and you want to eliminate the battery, try this. Pull your other car up next to the RX and connect jumper cables to the RX battery cables from your other car. I would disconnect the cables from the RX battery, completely eliminating it. No need to even start either car. Just set the clock and wait a minute and see if it advances. If not don't waste you money on a replacement battery.

You may want to check this link. It looks like some are getting the price down to $1700 by calling Lexus 800 #. Let us know how you make out. This problem seems to be slowly reaching more and more of us, whether you maintained your transmission or not. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349012

Costco lists fitment code 3 as the replacement battery for the RX. In the past the battery case has been 3/16" of an inch higher than the Panasonic. Maybe that has changed. If not just be aware of it when you install. Also, try some WD 40 or penetrating oil on the threads of the rear support above the nut.

No thanks on the Amsoil reccomendation.

Both battery terminals and both front and rear support bracket are all 10mm. But I wouldn't go out and buy a wrench if you don't have it. An adjustable wrench should work fine or even pliers if used carefully. When you say the rear support rod is turning, do you actually see the rod behind the battery turning or did you not remove the plastic cap on the rod and that is what's turning? If the whole rod is turning just look down behind the battery, it is hooked in. A word about the Costco battery. It is slightly taller than the original Panasonic battery. This is not a problem as the rear support has plenty of adjustment and the front of the bracket has a lot of flex. Just don't do what others have tried and add washers or spacers to raise the front support and then find out it touches the hood when closed. Just flex the front of the bracket down to meet the attaching point.

I am not sure how AAA compensates their contract drivers but is it possible that he gets compensated more if he does an electrical repair such as "wiggling" the socket opposed to just hoping in the car, giving it some gas and starting it.

Most likely your gas mileage will also take a hit by about the same amount that your speedo is off. Of course you wont see this because your odometer thinks you are traveling more miles than you actually are.