mikey00

Here is my 2 cents on a flush: I have always been a fan of a drain and fill every 15K. I figure a D&F every 15K produces about the same end result as a flush every 30K without the risk of moving some debris around in the trans and without the high cost of a flush. Well it turned out that I missed my D&F schedule by about 3K and was going to be at the Toyota dealer anyway, so I decided to go for a flush. After the flush the trans performed fine just as it always has. Then 2 weeks (700 miles) after the flush, the trans did not engage in reverse and finally did engage with a thud. This happen 2 more times over the next 2 weeks. My guess is the flush moved some dirt somewhere where it shouldn't be and was causing the problem. My next move was going to be to pull both sensors on the top of the trans and clean and swap them to see if the problem changed. But it's been almost a month now and the problem has not returned. Of course there is no proof that any of this was caused by the flush but in hindsight I wished I skipped the flush and did a D&F.

Engine immobilization system checks the electronics in the key during starting only. If it is not the proper key the security light is on and the car won't start. Once the car is started you could remove the electronics from the key and the car will continue to run. So I doubt engine immobilization system has anything to do with the actual problem. Did you try to start the car directly before AAA wiggled the socket? Did that really fix the problem or was it coincidence? Also it sounds like the car would start but sputter and die. This is often an Idle Air Control Valve problem. Usually depressing the accelerator while cranking will get it started and keep it running. Did AAA possibly use this method and you were not pressing on the accelerator when you previously tried it?

Nothing wrong with buying pads with lifetime warranty. They are not claiming that they will never wear out. What they are saying is that when they do wear out, you will not be charged for the replacement pads. You will, however, pay for the labor to change them and whatever else is required at that time, which can be substantial. Raybestos Quiet Stop, Midas, plus others offer this warranty in the states. It worked for me using them on my other car and I recently used Raybestos Quiet Stop on my RX. I guess it's a numbers game. Everyone thinks they will have the car long enough to take advantage of the warranty but in reality very few do.

If you are looking to get the best looking hitch get the Hidden Hitch 70777. It is available from many sources. Just Google it.

Are you possibly looking for this hitch for a bike rack application? I have a hitch and a high end bike rack (Yakima, Roc N Gate) that I really don't use anymore. Shipping could be a problem.

For some reason couple Autozone near my home doesn't do it. Don't know why. But during my researching, I did come across many articles on this CEL subject. So hopefully these tips other owners posted will help. I am going to do the trivial stuff first like clean the MAF, gas caps etc... and see if that works. Here's a link that may help someone in the future: www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan2004/techtips.html You have a typo in your link. Drop the last "l"

OK, I think I have everything now. Sorry for the repeat questions before but I did not realize you did 2 posts in a row and only read the second one. I went to the Beck/Arnley site to view the images. They still make it difficult. They flip the images 180 degrees and shoot from 2 very different angles. But I can see the 2 different positions of the notch. I would have never found this in the images if you didn't mention it.

I changed my original pads at around 70K using Lexus/Toyota pads from Irontoad. Both the original and replacement pads had a manufacturer # stamped on the pad frame. Researching the number indicates that Lexus factory pads are actually Aikembo Ceramic pads. 70K seems around average for brakes on a mixed use RX. I didn't turn the rotors at this time. At 120K I could feel a little pulsating in the brake pedal. I looked at my options: 1. Pulling the rotors myself and having them turned and get another 20K out of the pads. 2. Or do the same but put new Lexus pads being that I already have things apart and have 20K at best left on the old pads. 3. Just have a reputable brake shop do a brake job using quality pads and turning the rotors. I went with option #3. It cost $315 for a brake shop to do a complete brake job using Raybestos Quiet Stop Ceramic pads. I have had good luck with these pads on my other vehicles. They have a lifetime warranty. So next brake job there is still labor related charges but the pads are free. Some other things to know about your Lexus pads: Front pads are 7/32" and the wear indicator is set at 1/32". Replacement Lexus front pads come without a wear indicator. It is s spring clip that you must move over from the old pads. I wonder how many RXs are running around without wear indicators because someone failed to do this. Rear pads are 12/32" and have the wear indicator set at 4/32". The rear wear indicator is part of the pad frame.

I just need to clarify that you bought 2 of the same part number even though Rock Auto lists that there is only one in the car. Would you still have the part # ? And once again what did you remove to get at them? Thanks, Mike

It looks like Rock Auto has 2 cruise control sensors listed for the RX. One is the Aisin Seiki for $28.79 (one in car) and the other is the Toyota for $61.99 (one in car). I am assuming that one of these is the counter gear speed sensor and the other is the input turbine speed sensor, being that each one says only 1 in car. But I would expect the sensors in the car to be the same being others have reported swapping the 2. Pictures look the same for both of these just 180 degrees out in the picture. Did you purchase one of each or 2 of the same matching the old ones? I can see the counter gear speed sensor facing the battery but the input speed sensor is hidden by the air box. Did you remove battery and/or air box to get at these or just reach in and remove?

I did some searching and it looks like tgun08 did the sensor swap and solved the reverse problem. The problem is he hasn't logged in since Feb 14. I was hoping he could tell me how to remove the sensors. I guess I will have to get the manual out and take a look at the top of trans.

On 10/5/06 Costco replaced one of my CTs on road hazzard warranty with no questions asked. However, I did have only about 15K on the set. There was no tire measurment on the receipt but doing some math it should have been around 8 or 9 32nds. Being you were down to 5/32, my math tells me to get 20K more you would have to take them all the way down to 2/32. It stinks that they didn't tell you the policy upfront. But I guess you were close enough to replacement that the deal shouldn't sting too bad.

Does anyone have any further info on these 2 sensors? I was wondering where they are located and what is involved in swapping them. My wife claims the car didn't move in reverse then finally moved with a jolt twice in the last couple of weeks.

You can get it online from newlexusparts.com or irontoad.com. These are actual Lexus dealers that discount online. Another thought is to get the part # off your existing blower motor resistor (controller) and Goggle it. I think I remember reading that a Toyota part number is lurking under the Lexus sticker on that part.

lenore, I know you have gone through the tranny problem a couple of times. What are your thoughts on these speed sensors? Were they checked out on your trannies before replacement? The post you referred to was the second time now that a poster claimed to fix what appeared to be a need for a tranny replacement with just a sensor. Maybe I am just doing some wishful thinking for when my tranny time comes.

They know all too well about the transmission problem. That's why they are now recommending a flush every 15-30k miles, because the fluid overheats and burns up over time.. The lifetime transmission fluid doesn't quite make it. Personally, I think the factors in overheating are the weight of the vehicle, the underpowering of the vehicle, and the AWD transaxle that probably requires a more efficient cooling system. Anyway, I'm just going to continue having mine flushed until they wear out. I still wonder who in Lexus is recommending the flush every 15-30K to you. I find this odd when most Lexus dealers don't even have a flush machine. It sounds like a dealer with a flush machine out to maximize profit. I am not trying to debate benefits of flush just asking a simple question. I am on a 15k drain and fill schedule which is about the same end result of a 30k flush schedule. I have nothing against a flush except small chance of moving debris around and the cost. Plus it's not a DIY project except for the method of disconnecting one of the cooler lines and using the trans to pump the fluid out. I may even have a flush done if I am at the Toyota dealer for any future work.

Just check the model code found on the driver's side door, at the bottom under the barcode. MCU10 = FWD (2WD) MCU15 = AWD (4 WD)

Might be worth a try to pull the negative battery connection for a few minutes to reset the light. If it doesn't come back on, your good. If it does then pursue the codes, but I think you are right about none relating to just the VSC.

Flush was the only option that the local Lexus dealers offered. Said the filter never needs serviced. I'm doing several drain and refills DIY instead. Would that be Lexus of Akron Canton? I actually called Metro Lexus up toward Cleveland. They are supposed to have the same owner though. I'm sort of fed up with the Akron dealer's service. Keep catching them in stupid lies, if you call them out on them they look you in the face and lie again. Pushed me to start DIYing stuff I was going to pay them to do. Metro seems top notch, just not the answer I wanted to hear for the trans fluid. I did a search and it looks like Metro Lexus, Classic Lexus and Lexus of Akron Canton are the only 3 Lexus dealers in Ohio offering transmission flush. This isn't many considering the number of Lexus dealers in Ohio. But yet there are a lot of Toyota dealers offering it. I guess what I am getting at here is, if it is so important to flush your RX transmission why are so few Lexus dealers offering the service. So far I have only checked NY/NJ/PA area and Ohio, but it does look like a pattern here.

Flush was the only option that the local Lexus dealers offered. Said the filter never needs serviced. I'm doing several drain and refills DIY instead. Would that be Lexus of Akron Canton?

It seems like almost all Toyota dealers offer transmission flush and almost no Lexus dealers offer it. Did anyone else notice this or is it just my part of the country?

There was a joke a few years back calling the clock the "Battery Failure, Early Detection System". I am not sure if it is due to a oversensitive clock or the manor in which the original Panasonic battery begins to fail. I may find that with my Costco battery the clock works fine till the day the car no longer starts. I would rather have the clock warn me.

If it's a Panasonic battery it is your original battery which is overdue for replacement. Don't waste your time cleaning or checking it, just replace it and your clock problem will go away. The clock reset is the first indication that your battery is failing. The battery will often test good, even load test good at a auto shop. Quality replacement batteries are available from places like Costco for around $50. Yes, I can confirm the problem is the battery, which needs to be changed. I had the same problem a few weeks back and followed the advice of Lenore (TKU Lenore!), changed the battery and now all is well. Display functions perfectly.-- Good luck. Pauljcl Wait...WAIT... The poster has said NOTHING about the car not starting reliably.... Starting the engine probably represents the HEAVIEST load the battery will bear. The RX clock thing is the first sign that the battery is going. Usually the age of the battery at this point may be another reason to want to replace it. It will still pass a load test and start reliably for quite awhile after that. Most choose not to wait to see how long that actually is. Once you spend $50 for a battery the clock thing is fixed and you are reasonably sure it will start for about another 5 years. Or you can take your chances and wait for that cold night when it will no longer start. Yes, replace the battery and in the process the terminals get CLEANED, along with your pockets. Clean/burnish the battery posts and connections first, 10 minute job. It cost me $40 for a Costco battery. If that's cleaning my pockets I shouldn't be driving a Lexus, even a used one. I did try cleaning the connections without success. But once the battery is over 5 years old and the clock is resetting, it's time to dig real deep in those pockets for $40.

If it's a Panasonic battery it is your original battery which is overdue for replacement. Don't waste your time cleaning or checking it, just replace it and your clock problem will go away. The clock reset is the first indication that your battery is failing. The battery will often test good, even load test good at a auto shop. Quality replacement batteries are available from places like Costco for around $50. Yes, I can confirm the problem is the battery, which needs to be changed. I had the same problem a few weeks back and followed the advice of Lenore (TKU Lenore!), changed the battery and now all is well. Display functions perfectly.-- Good luck. Pauljcl Wait...WAIT... The poster has said NOTHING about the car not starting reliably.... Starting the engine probably represents the HEAVIEST load the battery will bear. The RX clock thing is the first sign that the battery is going. Usually the age of the battery at this point may be another reason to want to replace it. It will still pass a load test and start reliably for quite awhile after that. Most choose not to wait to see how long that actually is. Once you spend $50 for a battery the clock thing is fixed and you are reasonably sure it will start for about another 5 years. Or you can take your chances and wait for that cold night when it will no longer start.

If it's a Panasonic battery it is your original battery which is overdue for replacement. Don't waste your time cleaning or checking it, just replace it and your clock problem will go away. The clock reset is the first indication that your battery is failing. The battery will often test good, even load test good at a auto shop. Quality replacement batteries are available from places like Costco for around $50.