mikey00

Look here: http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/~rx300ho...ide_markers.htm

check here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx300-foru...t-at-times.html

Does not apply to RX.

It doesn't really need to be in the key, just near the ignition switch. It's the same concept as the credit card key that comes with the Rx when new. It is a credit card card size key that goes into your wallet. It has a metal blade that snaps out of the plastic card. You put the metal key in the ignition and just hold the plastic card, which has the chip in it, anywhere the ignition.

Your car really didn't unauthorize your original key. The problem is that the actual key blade does not contain the chip. It is in the electronics (remote) which you removed. Use your old electronics to program the car to accept the new electronics. Programming a new key is a 2 step process. One is to operate the remote, which you already did, then the other is to start the car. Directions are here: http://www.toy-lex.com/

I have a felt filter in my trans for about 10k now and keeping my fingers crossed.

Toyota did my timing belt @ 90k for $325. I didn't change the wp or idler at their recomendation. Toyota tech thought it was a waste of money changing parts that don't fail on that engine. I plan on just doing the belt again at 180K.

http://www.toy-lex.com/programming.html

The trans won't shift into 4th because the CEL is on. This is by design. Change the knock sensors reset the light and it will shift fine.

I just need to confirm that the above quote is correct. It is a common problem with the RX not shifting into overdrive before it warms up. This is the first time I have heard of one not shifting into overdrive after it warms up. Also I don't think pending codes will prevent the engine from shifting into overdrive. It has to be a regular check engine light code. If you don't have a check engine light on something else is going on here. If you do have a check engine light on, fix the problem, even though it may appear unrelated, and the overdrive situation will be gone.

Check here. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...15&start=15 Anyone still have this pdf? Thanks I just checked the link in the above post and it looks like the file is still there for download.

Yes, Smooth1, seems to me that it is an issue of speedometer reading rather than cruise control. I am assuming that, after setting the cruise control at a certain speed, it would be evident if the speed increased - the speedometer would read higher. If it doesn't, the original reading was 'wrong'. If you changed your tire size, use one of the online tire size calculators to determine how much you may have knocked your speedometer off. Here's one: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Also if you have a portable GPS compare your speed using the speedometer which is built into it. If you don't have one borrow one. It seems like eveyone has one these days.

Is your check engine light on or any saved codes? check engine light is on for another reason though lean air bank sensor, nothing coming up with transmission, but mechanic had asked if I had disconnected battery recently . I hadn't , but did put a after market remote start. Fix the "another reason" that is causing your check engine light and then your tranny will shift into overdrive fine. The computer prevents the tranny from shifting into overdrive when you have a CEL. This is by design.

I don't think you will have much sucess getting an answer here being that we all have the immoblizer which seems to come into play when programming both the key and remote. You might try following the procedure for programming the remote portion here but I don't think it will work: http://www.toy-lex.com/programming11.html Lexus Owners Club (Australia) has more Harrier owners. You could try your question there: http://au.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=6 Or maybe here: http://www.motortrader.com.my/asp/forum/to...amp;whichpage=1 Good luck.

Are you sure it doesn't like cassettes or is it just the adapter? Try a real cassette to determine if you have a casette player problem. If it checks out try the adapter in another car. If it checks out it may just be a compatibility problem. Try another brand adapter.

This transmission failure mode was also experienced by others. You may want to disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes, then re-connect and shift through the gears a few times and then try it. It may not be a long term fix but it may get you going. It worked for this member: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367088 I also remember others having this problem but I am not sure of the outcome. You may want to search on "transmission" both on this forum and the one I provided the link for. You will find a lot of reading on transmission failures.

Yes, flatbed. They will most likely know that. Is it not turning over, like a dead battery? If so, jump start start it from another car. Or is it turning over but just won't start? If so work the gas pedal as you turn it over. It will most likely start and need the pedal a little until it warms up. If this is the case it is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) which needs cleaning. This is a common problem. If this is the case here is a link complete with pictures on cleaning the IACV. Some just spray it while others dissamble it and do a complete cleaning. You don't sound like you want to get that involved. I would just spray it per the directions. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...l=IACV&st=0

artbuc, You are describing RX300 fix. Running Ox has a RX330 with the common "drive by wire" hesitation problem. Running Ox, There is a lot of discussion of this problem on the forum. Use the search function to search on "hesitation" for some explanation. Here is one such discussion: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=hesitation

Both James Toyota in Flemington and Towne Toyota in Ledgewood worked on my Lexus. For brakes I would just use a good brake shop.

At newlexusparts.com you can find any part and also view images.

It is usually just the back cover that breaks. You can get a replacement on ebay for about $15. Mine even came with a new screw. Another alternative is to go to www.thejacketstore.com and order a key cover which will not only hold your key together but also protect it from future damage. I use the covers on all my lexus keys. Hey, wait a minute! I just realized you revieved an old thread and I already said this once above back in June. I would have deleted my post but can't figure out how.

Check the end of this post. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...15&start=15

There is a pic of which line to remove in this thread. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220061

The "D" light is a little harder to do but still not to bad. The hardest part is getting out the 2 phillips head screws in the plastic bezel around the instrument cluster. They are in really tight. I find it best to use a good stubby phillips screw driver. This will allow you to put your left thumb on the bottom of the screw driver and the rest of your fingers on the top of the dash. Then squeeze to keep the screw driver in the screw head as you use your right hand to turn counterclockwise looking from the bottom. Be sure and look at all the directions and pics available. Here are some: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...eferrerid=12681

Anyone else know anything about this additional cooler inside the radiator on a RX 300 or is this Lexus tech possibly confused with another model? I checked my 01 and don't see any trans lines going into the radiator. I also have both the 1999 and 2003 factory service manuals and the only cooler I see referenced is the one in the fender well. The 2000 year shop manual shows 2 oil cooler lines from the transmission going to the radiator and actually has a repair procedure for it. You can replace the oil cooler portion if you're willing to disassemble the radiator. (and can find the part). Where in the manual are you finding it? Maybe I can find it in mine if I have an idea where you are looking.