bartkat

Relay was stuck closed? Good move.

Put on a nice 20 PSI turbo.

Dump some in there. Can't hurt. All that stuff is mostly alcohol anyway.

Use a good vinyl/plastic dressing like Lexol to clean and protect those areas.

Never heard that one before but it sounds like there probably is a fault in the alarm system. You can reset the ECU system by disconnecting the negative (black) wire from the battery for about 10 minutes and then reconnect. If that doesn't work try a new battery in the remote key fob.

I think that's normal. It's a different paint or tape covering to prevent rock chips. There are also a couple of pieces of that at the lower parts of the fender openings.

You're 99?

If this is a popular thing to do, then there must be brokers who will handle the paperwork and the technicalities for a fee.

I was thinking more of splicing the wires if one is broken or diconnected.

I think it does that to send the intial air through the cabin filter for reasons of maybe pollen, exhaust gas, etc. You can change the sensitivity of that by pushing and holding the mode button, the one with the two car icons showing air flow.. You should then see a number on the A/C screen. Default is zero. Use the up/down arrow buttons to change that number. (the temperature set buttons). Then push the big Auto button to get out of setting mode. I think you can set from -3 to +3. The lower the setting the less sensitive so the recirc should be on less and go off quicker. I tried setting mine to -3 and and it stays on outside air when I started it up.

Enthusiastical car people know no age. Stereotyping is just B/S. Nobody talked me up to a IS350. When the first 2nd gen cars came in I went over and taught the guys at the dealership all about them and bought the first 350 in the state, and maybe the region. And I'm older than anybody. :D

I come up with about $45,000 Canadian for the base car plus X package and including destination charge, duty and 15% tax at retail list prices, bought in the States and legally imported to Canada.

You should be able to pull the ligher socket up a little and check the wires. Sometimes those get broken.

Let's not get into a *BLEEP*ing contest here. I can't speak for all, but I could really care less how somebody's modded out Evo runs. Also I'm not sure it's a good idea to "give the impression" that we're condoning street racing on this forum either. If anyone want's to talk 1/4 mile or 0 - 60 times or whatever, start a thread about track times or timing under controlled conditions, or actual heads up sanctioned track racing.

You could also look at the for sale forums on my.is and club lexus

Take a look in the overflow tank behind the radiator. You'll see what color the coolant is. The air conditioner removes water from the humid air and that water has to go somewhere. It almost always comes out through a hose near the engine and onto the floor when you park.

I don't disagree that buying during an "incentive or sale time" is good. It's just that isn't necessarily conveyed to the public (eg. "July 4th Sales Event") The only incentive times I know is end of the month and end of the model year (August31/Sept30). What other "incentive" times do you know of and that can be used as general info to newbies... especially if shopping between wo different cars cross-brand (say Lexus and BMW at the same time) Lexus also runs the "December to Remember" sales event. That's about all I know of. Winter months are also usually a good time to buy anyway as sales are usually slower.

I know a guy who does autocross almost every weekend in his IS350. He had the brake pad change at Lexus. He says there's not much difference in normal driving. He's still beating BMW's in the weekend competitions so I figure the pads are OK. Not only will the dust less, but they'll probably last longer.

Maybe ebay

Right, that would be normal.

It won't hurt to punch it to full throttle and let the car shift for itself in either mode with the gear selector set to 6. If you are in a lower gear and hit redline the engine will cut off until you back off the gas and let the rpm drop. It won't allow you to over rev. The automatic shift points depend on how far you are pushing on the gas pedal. Normal driving it will shift at the speeds you see. If you mash down on it, it will shift later at higher rpm. There's no reason to drive around in 4 as the automatic will shift to the gear it needs to be in depending on speed. The paddle shifters are there for you to downshift and get some engine braking, or to control upshifting if you are on a hilly/curvy road and want to stay in a certain gear. Just play around with that and you'll get a feel for it. I go up and down a 3 mile mountain road quiet often. Going down, if I am going too fast, or if I have slower traffic ahead, I'll downshift to 5 and then 4 if needed to keep the car from speeding up and not having to over use the brakes. That's one example.

I think the coolant is red. If it's not a big leak you could ask at 5000 miles or just take it back in when you can since it's a warranty thing.

Not sure about the starting. A 2002 without the mods would be around $16 -17 thousand in really good condition. If you think the boost and stuff are worth the extra then that's probably ok. I kinda figure the value of the mods is worth about 50% of what he originally paid for them, so you might add them up and see how it comes out. There are lots of posts on turbo and supercharged IS300 at this link. http://my.is/forums/usercp.php

Get the CEL's read to be sure that there aren't other problems. It probably needs O2 simulators to fool the ECU into thinking the cats are still there. The guy should put these on and test it before he sells the car. http://www.o2sensorsimulator.com/?gclid=CP...CFQhaZQodkHqO6w

I never take mine to the dealer except for warranty work. I haven't had dealer routine service for over 20 years. For the Lexus I buy the filters, etc from Irontoad, have the oil changed at a local place and change air and cabin filters myself. Long as I have records for those items, warranty is still good.