bartkat

Good deal. No arbitration now? :)

PM sent.

do you still have the exhaust? if so when can i come by and pick it up? I still have it. It's in Northeast Alabama. would you ship it out to me? Been busy. I'll try to take a pic today so you can decide if you want it.

I use rubber/vinyl dressing on mine twice a year. I don't know if that will solve your problem though. I've never had the noise. Here's a search on sunroof noise. Even some from other models might help. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/search.php?c...;sa=Search#2279

do you still have the exhaust? if so when can i come by and pick it up? I still have it. It's in Northeast Alabama. would you ship it out to me? Been busy. I'll try to take a pic today so you can decide if you want it.

Most car insurance covers damage by wild animals with no deductible I think.

The engine must be in limp mode to try and prevent damage. Could be low oil pressure reading from a dented pan, or maybe a damaged sensor on the transmission. Are you getting a check engine light?

The answers to many questions including those in the owners and maintenance manuals and some links to how to tutorials can be found in the permanent threads posted above.

They have them listed here. http://www.automotiveconcepts.net/store/Le...uct_17610.html#

Yes there are posts about that here and probably a whole thread.

do you still have the exhaust? if so when can i come by and pick it up? I still have it. It's in Northeast Alabama.

The latch will be "open" when you look at it. It closes when the striker engages the round bar at the bottom of the trunk. Open the trunk all the way and take a small screw driver and push up on the flat part of the moving latch. The latch should pop closed. If it does, cycle a few times, by releasing with the button above the license plate, closing and then releasing. It that's working it should latch and close. If it doesn't cycle, then there is soemthing wrong with the mechanism and it needs replaced. Also make sure the part the latch hooks into at the bottom of trunk is in position and hasn't come loose and got pushed down so the latch can't engage.

Standing in front of the car, look to your right in front of the radiator and behind the grille. The outside temp sensor is there. It could be disconnected or the connector could be corroded. That's the first place I'd look.

Oooooooooooooook http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2009/10...oormat-fix.html Ah so. That leads us to the better solution. http://blogs.cars.com/kickingtires/2009/10...celeration.html Having worked in manufacturing for a long time I remember that we considered masking tape to be a temporary repair, while duck tape was a permanent repair. The advent of zip ties may have changed all that. :D

It did not prevent the original poster from starting the vehicle either. That's what makes me believe it was a result of simply depressing the brake after the engine was turned off. We may never know since the J Jones has since gone silent... He said he couldn't start the car when the pedal was stiff. Mine did start with stiff pedal. I hope nothing has happened to him. Maybe the op is stuck in the car because they couldn't pull the door lever open? That's a whole different thread. :D

I haven't seen it, but a link should be posted if it's online.

It did not prevent the original poster from starting the vehicle either. That's what makes me believe it was a result of simply depressing the brake after the engine was turned off. We may never know since the J Jones has since gone silent... He said he couldn't start the car when the pedal was stiff. Mine did start with stiff pedal. I hope nothing has happened to him.

OK I tried the brake thing this morning after car sat all night. I hit the pedal kind firmly once and it was soft. Next time I hit the pedal was very stiff, but I was able to start the car ok. Tried again and after one punch pedal was stiff but waited a few sec and it had more give to it again. At any rate it never did prevent me from starting the engine.

I saw as C model last time I was at Lexus of Huntsville. Dang, the sticker was $51,000 with all the stuff it had on it.

Shhh. Some folks got their undies all in a wad a whle back when I mentioned Sewell. :D :D :lol: Why would the folks get upset? It was just another case of someone trying to accuse mods of getting kickbacks for mentioning certain vendors or dealers or even accusing us of being dealers or dealer employees. It's a vast mod/vendor conspiracy. :D :lol:

Shhh. Some folks got their undies all in a wad a whle back when I mentioned Sewell. :D :D :lol:

If it was serviced by a Lexus dealer they can pull up the records. The owners manual and service schedule are posted at the top of the page here. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=26434

Also false. The oxygen sensor does not know and does not care what fuel is used - it measures the oxygen level. If the CE light comes on, it is probably because the engine runs too lean on ethanol. To achieve correct stochiometric ratio you need about 30% extra fuel to run at lambda 1. That is outside the regulation system parameters on many angine management systems. Bigger injectors or higher fuel pressure is the cure. /Alexander That's why some cars in the US are "flex fuel" and some are not. As for my preferences I will use gas with no ethanol as long as I can find it. Ethanol has more connotations here than just it's performance in engines. It's a big waste and boondoggle of taxpayer money going to subsidize corn raised for fuel and not for food. Added problem is the higher cost per btu, lower fuel mileage, and crops diverted to ethanol causing food prices to increase. It's bad for the American consumer all the way around. Most of us just don't like it as it is not a cost effective way to achieve the nebulous goals for which it is intended. http://www.electrochem.org/meetings/schedu...ts/214/1695.pdf http://rumors.automobilemag.com/6588984/gr...tent/index.html If E15 is a problem for non flex fuel cars, then E85 will certainly be a disaster for them. Whether you use the term "aggressive" or "corrosive" the auto parts don't know the semantic difference and the results will be similar. It's not that the ethanol binds to the water, it's that ethanol actually dissolves in water, and there is part of the problem. The car either has to be built with different or coated fuel system parts and/or expensive corrosion inhibitors must be added to the fuel. Any way you slice it, it all ends up with higher costs for little reduction in emissions. Remember MBPE? It was supposed to be the ultimate solution for a fuel supplement. It turned out to be toxic and ended up in the ground water of various regions. So much for the environment. The only best reason 100% ethanol works for Brazil is that sugar cane is abundant and yields more BTU per dollar than most other bio fuels. That allows them to use cars that are made to run on ethanol and not be dependent on oil. More power to them.

I would be interested in another update justflyin83. Do you regret getting the maintenance done or did the dealer resolve your issues after the so called fix was done. I too have an 06 IS350 with the same issue as everyone else on this tread. After reading all the posts to date I am still undecided as to whether this repair is worth it or not. I would still like to know from someone "in the know", if damage is being done to the engine when this rattling noise occurs. I can't imagine it's not, from the sound it makes. The randomness of it is very confusing. I cringe at the thought of my engine being opened up, I read the entire TSB, and it is a pretty invasive procedure. I agree, once you open up a factory built engine, it's never the same. I am going to monitor this thread for awhile before I take the plunge. I have 35000 mi. on my car, so I have plenty of warranty left, my only concern again is, am I doing damage to this engine or not. Rickaokc Some of the guys on my.is had it done. I've never had the noise on mine. http://my.is/forums/f126/

It's in the owner's manual or the tech manual. Tech manual can be downloaded here: http://home.comcast.net/~whoit/IS300TechManualSections.zip