bartkat

No damage. 2 bulbs cost $1.50. Most likely will need the second bulb from what I hear.

The IS300 clutch doesn't hold up well to boost or really hard driving. However, at that mileage they should still replae it under waranty as long as you don't have some mods that could have caused clutch failure. You need to go at the dealer again or talk to Lexus customer service.

$26,000 would be top dollar and more for an '02 and at that price it should be certified. The dealer you talked to was full of crap. Check www.edumunds.com for pricing and check out the prices on www.autotrader.com There should be some cars listed in your area.

If it's the HID low beams you need go to Ebay and search for D2R bulbs. I got two brand new Philips German made bulbs for $80 total plus shipping. I replaced both so they would match. They are 4300K bulbs just like the originals. There are also some OEM used bulbs on Ebay, but I felt better with the new ones. Phlips are original equipment on some BMW's etc, I think. There are other sources that are much cheaper than the dealers, but I had good luck with the Ebay ones.

You just pop off the entire trim thing that surrounds the sunroof switches along with the light lens, all one thing. Then you'll see the bulb. It's just like I said in the previous post. Real easy.

The car will get better with miles, but not that much better. Maybe 1 or 2 MPG at best. At 1000 miles it should be broken in pretty well. Maybe you should have it checked. If you want to try this you can reset your ECU so it goes back to default settings and then drive normally for 200 to 300 miles and then check mileage again. I do know it will be peppier right after an ECU reset. To do this just disconnect the negative (black wire) battery terminal for about 30 minutes, then reconnect. Start the engine and let it run about 5 minutes, and then take it for a test drive. You'll have to reset your radio, etc after the disconnect, so be sure to have your code handy.

It's not normal. You should get about 20 MPG city and 25 MPG highway. Of course your local day to day mileage depends a lot on how often and how hard you get on the pedal. Give it some more time and check your mileage on a trip of 200 miles or more.

GM tried that back in the 80's I believe. I think it was a Cadillac that ran on 8, 6, and 4 cylinders. It didn't work out so well. Of course, at that time, technology wasn't what it is today.

Adjusting the tie rods is probably the way to straighten the steering wheel. However, if you have it aligned, straigntening the steering wheel should be included in that. It's a good idea to have the alignment done anyway, so getting those two things done in the same job is a good thing. As far as struts, if one has failed, is leaking, etc, then you have to replace them in pairs, front or rear. The fronts are most likely to fail first. I'd give all four corners of the car the "bounce test" and if the rears pass the test, then leave them on till they go bad. Here's a good little article on checking your struts (shocks). http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Springs/test.htm

Most any quick detail spray works ok. I tried MGuiars and Mothers. They both work fine for between washings as long as the car isn't real dirty.

That seems to be the story that's going around. I've read a couple of articles that pretty much say the same thing.

I've been there. Have friends that live there.

The SRT intake gives the best power gains of any intakes. It comes with a piggyback ECU that allows your engine to take full advantage of the improved airflow, and properly installed, it won't cause check engine lights as some of the other intakes do. It's more expensive, but gets close to 10 HP gain. http://www.swiftracing.com/ As for exaust, you'll probably get more power with a header and Y pipe than with an aftermarket cat back exhaust. http://www.toyomoto.com/is300.htm

What do you need to know? If you need to program it, just hold your regular garage door opener next to the button on the visor. Press both buttons and hold till the one on the visor flashes. That should do it.

Are you sure that's not just the power steering reaching the stop?

You might want to check for blown fuses. I'm not sure about the 2001, but on the 2002 there are electrical wires that go to the mirror for the compass and aut dimming mirror. They could have caused a short while installing the mirror.

Slow 1-2 on 01 automatics. ECU reflash pretty well fixed that. From what I hear the model change will be an early 06 model.

The clicking sound of the front brakes is normal. They say it's because of the floating caliper design. Everyone seems to have it.

Apparently you have one of those resistors that changes the IAT signal. My suggestion would be to get your money back or sell it to someone else, because if it does anything it will just make your engine run too rich and waste gas.

Usually the CEL problem with intakes is the relocation of the MAF and it gives a false reading, setting off the alarm. Also, a heat shield and/or air deflector is needed too keep turbulence away from the filter. Resetting the ECU can help, but this is usually only temporary, and the CEL comes back. The only real solutions would be an adjustable engine management system, or go back to stock.

I think there's already a topic about this here. I don't believer there's any real solid info, but for sure there will be changes.

It might not lower the value, but it may narrow the market selling a car. I traded my Civic for my IS300 at a dealer and I got book value for it. I had the OEM body kit and rear spoiler, installed by me but I didn't really get any extra for it. You just might not get any extra for the kit so you lose a little there. The reason you narrow the market of buyers is the everyone who likes IS300 might not necessarily like a particular kit. Also some buyers or dealers are concerned about the installation quality of kits and other mods, and how a modded car may have been "abused" by the driver. I've seen several people put their cars back to stock, and then sell their mods separately when they trade off their cars. That's probably the best way to go.

I believe the outboard tail lights attach from the outside. Look for some covered screws near where the trunk lid closes near the lights. I think there are covers over these screws, maybe 3 on each side.

According to the people at Forbes, gas prices will be coming back down early in the summer. I'm pretty sure they know how that works.

I really don't think it has much to do with what kind of car they own. If they guy really wanted to, he could have found out on a Honda board. No great loss.