bartkat

Yes, disconnect the negative (black) wire, that should work fine.

Its not going to be like you put on a turbo or something, but there should be some improvement. If you reset the ECU when you install the K&N, you may see some difference. If not resetting, it may take some time. Since it comes pre-oiled, you won't probably have to worry about oiling for 15,000 to 30,000 miles anyway. :D The trick to cleaning and oiling is to just spray the filter oil on, then let the filter sit overnight. If there are any white spots, touch them up. Just be patient, and let the oil soak in, then wipe off any excess or droplets. While waiting for the filter oil to migrate, use a standard filter in the car if you need to drive it in the meantime. Anyone that's had problems probably got in a hurry and soaked the filter and then stuck it right back in and drove.

Hey look man, I put 100,000 miles each on three vehicles, one LT1 Firebird and two Hondas. Never had a minutes'trouble with any of those cars. Right now I've got 33,000 on my IS300 and no problems. There are limits to what a ECU will do before it throws a CEL, so I consider your claims baloney. You leave out quite a bit of what's done as normal mantenance. If you had a bad experience with over oiled filters, that's your problem to deal with. Please don't come around telling me I don't know what the *BLEEP* I'm talking about, ok? End of story dude.

What is it exactly the help that you want?

Could you repeat that please? I nodded off while reading your sig.

Cool. I'd like to get one of them that also steers around the object, and puts me back in the proper lane of traffic after that. :D

In one of the threds here, the owner replaced all the carpets, pad, etc and still had problems. Around here we use "Purex" bleach mixed with water to clean mildew off houses and roofs and stuff. I'd expect that after the leak is fixed, a thorough cleaning with some sort of fungicidal solution would be necessary before replacing with new carpet, etc.

It must have been the ege typo that threw us off.

With a lower pressure drop across the filter, due to having a greater filter area, with porosity no greater than that of a stock filter, plus a greater depth of filter media, the K&N or TRD type filters are not only less restrictive, but also do a better cleaning job. And that's the truth of it. <_< Noise? I don't know from noise. I've always used the filter that replaces the stock one in the airbox. If anything, the aftermarket filtters even get a better seal around the edges, due to their edge construction. :)

The odor ususally originates from mildew buildup on the A/C evaporator coil. If you have mold under the carpet, then there may also be a leak. Try these threads. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=mildew++mold http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=carpet++odor http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...77&hl=A/C++odor

What, are you watching !Removed!?

http://www.forbes.com/2004/11/22/cx_dl_1122feat.html

Turn the sterring wheel so you can get a better shot at the backside of the wheel and give it some sharp whacks. But be damn careful to stay out from under the car while it's jacked up.

I just gotta disagree with this oil problem thing. I've run K&N or TRD drop in filters in 4 different cars over the last 10 years and never had any problems with oil getting on sensors. Of course, the cleaning and re-oiling needs to be properly done, but most anyone who can change their filter, and follow instuctions, and not get really impatient ought to be able to do that.

Sooner or later, I think that will ruin the cats, and then you have more expense.

There are several other good reasons to fill up at 1/4 tank as well.

Uh, miles per tank is not a very accurate measurement. :D

The maintnance manual for the 5000 mile service schedule calls for oil and filter change every 5000 miles or 4 months. This is the "severe serivce schedule which includes "frequent trips less than 5 miles". Most people would fall into this category. The "less than severere" service intervals are 7500 miles or 6 months for oil and filter changes. Personally I'd always go with the 5000 mile,4 months interval, just to be safe.

I don't think it's been mentioned that you'll have to come up with a tire aspect ration that will yield an outside diameter for the 17's as you have with the 16's. This will mean a lower profile, stiffer sidewall, and a harsher ride, as well.

Some things juat aren't meant to be.

STP fuel stabilizer works pretty well too. I found out by accident. I had put some in the tank of my Firebird because I wasn't driving it much. After a couple of little trips, I took the car out and it ran like it was brand new. I hadn't really noticed the decline in performance over time. The only thing I can figure is that something in the stabilizer did some internal cleaning.

The pic is too close up and there's no reference point. Besides, most of us don't have access to a Swiss model Lexus or aren't inclined to go open one up. If there's ductwork on each side of that slot, then a filter probably goes there. Does aire come out of the slot when you run the blower? Some folks cut up house type furnace filters to size ans put them in their cars. A filter, however isn't going to cure the smell problem. The quick fix is like in the referenced thread by spraying some deodorizer or disinfectant into the heater air intakes. The better fix is to clean the A/C evaporator coils, which is where the real source of the odor is. (Mildew growth).

When I took my OEM high beam bulbs out, there was gooey brackish coating on the inside of the bulbs. I also put in Silver Stars. Mine didn't heve the pregnant bubbles though, and there was also some yellow goo in with the black goo.