bartkat

TireRack customer ratings give them a 6.3 for noise. Not really good. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...dyear+Eagle+LS&

While this pic may be a photoshop, expect the LS to bear considerable family resemblence to the GS and IS, as they are all going to be L Finesse.

It's mostly true. The bigger the wheel diameter, the lower the tire profile. The lower the profile, the faster the tire wear. I've been lucky to get 20,000 miles on the 17's of the IS300. Most IS 300 owners will report similar experience. Performance suspensions also tend to increase tire wear do to scuffing. Add in speed rated tires being mad lighter and thinner to reduce heat buildup and you end up with tires wearing faster than the more "conventional" tires on standard cars.

$46,320 for the 350L

If it's been properly maintained it should go at least another 100,000. That engine has been around for awhile in Supra and other cars and ought to be quite long lived. Just try to find one that hasn't been abused. I've only got 38,000 miles on mine, and never a sign of trouble at all.

I think painless dent repair only works on sheet metal.

If you can, get an 02 as they fixed some of the glitches that were in the 01's.

Nobody said you were stupid. :(

Lexus IS 250-350 Dealer education brochure. Very interesting. PDF file. Right click and "save as" to download PDF file. http://www.eresourcing.com/misc/2006_Lexus_Brochure.pdf

out of shape? Are you kidding me..This is laughable at best. Now the All OEM is getting older, big time. So are the picture of dashboards from saber, opps monarch and the pictures of a brake rotor too. It is easy not to except new technology since it requires no thinking. Not even bringing oil into it, there is a reason why some oil are higher priced them others. Make sure you use OEM Power Steering fluids, OEM air, OEM tires, OEM cable straps, OEM fluids, OEM, window cleaner, OEM care care kit, OEM, healights, OEM tools, OEM gas (do they make that???), OEM water for rad..... He pushes OEM more then the Lexus dealers! But the picture as proof is great. What does it prove; again ZERO. If people did some homework they can learn some information; more then posting a picture and saying this and that. Now post a picture with some proof (that is data that supports your claim), then you might have something. Again, add information or data to support your thread. I can get a 2 year old to post a picture and say anything. Are you sure??? Based on the data I found, there are more gear and belts them chains. ← Please remove my quote from your post. It has absolutely nothing to do with what I said. Thanks.

AH, it does have a salvage title, just not in texas...that SOB. not a very good deal then eh? in fact, it sounds like a ripoff... ← Not good at all man. Kansas and Texas salvage titles. I'd pass on that.

The story of this 1996 LEXUS LS 400 (JT8BH22FXT0047411) according to our interpretation of the information reported to CARFAX: Blue Arrow This sedan has had 4 owners and was owned in Nebraska and Kansas. It was originally registered by the owner for personal use. Blue Arrow It was severely damaged and issued a Salvage title by a Kansas DMV. Blue Arrow It has not been reported by a DMV as having an Exceeds Mechanical Limits or Not Actual Mileage title. Blue Arrow It has a consistent mileage history with no indication of an odometer rollback. It was driven an average of 10,585 miles per year, which is lower than the industry average of 15,000. The last odometer reading, reported on 03/18/2005, was 96,430 miles. Blue Arrow It was not reported by a DMV as a Manufacturer Buyback or LEMON.

First make sure the condensate drain is actually draining. There should be a puddle of water under the car when you park and turn off the A/C. If that hose is plugged or improperly located it would leave the bad smell in the car. Mildew/mold grows on the evaporator coils. This is usually located under the dash in the A/C ductwork. If it's not draining or sometimes just being wet and parked for awhile it can be a breeding ground for mildew. I got the evaporator core treatment last year and cleaned mine. Its still fresh as new. http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dwd2 Anything else, spraying stuff in the vents, etc. is only a quick fix or cover up and the smell will come back.

Touchless works fine if you don't let your car go too long after it starts to get dirty, and have a good coat of wax before hand. Probably also depends on where you live too.

For $4.00 I just drive in the touchless wash, get soaped, blasted, rinsed, and spot free rinse, drive down the road to dry it off. No muss, no fuss. Maybe I'll start a thread.

I can't believe you started a thread about getting your car washed. :D

I doubt if the load hurt anything. I hauled 500 lbs of topsoil in the back of a Pinto once.

It will give a check engine light. In the worst case the car will not run properly. Then you'd have to clean the sensor, if it isn't ruined, but I have never had the problem and have run K&N and TRD filters on several cars.

Mass Air Flow sensor. Some people are concerned that over oiling the filter will cause the sensor to get coated with oil and give incorrect air flow readings to the engine control unit. It's not a problem if the filter oiling is done correctly.

You "oil test" fans sure do get bent out of shape easy. It doesn't take very long for that stuff to get really really old. :(

I once had a dealer who picked up and dropped off people, until I found out he was using my car to drop them off and pick them up. :(

First and probably easiest thing to try would be to lube the sway bar bushings. Also make sure the brackets are firmly secured.

Most people I know just take a baseball bat and roll it around between the tire and fender until the get the desired flare. :D

35 MPG UK = 28 MPG US according to my calculations.

She could get someone to sample the tank with a siphon hose and determine if it's diesel, maybe just by the smell.