lenore

This shows some pictures on the solenoids http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53999&hl=

Ok here is my first attempt....Came out OK, but I learned a lot...I used Spar Varathane as it is UV resistant....Next addition, more wood in the truck....Thank you for your great ideas, you are truely a master in your modifications....I enjoy seeing them...I really am impressed at your patience at your age...you will go far....

Try this helpful site: Look under tail lights..... http://home.comcast.net/~rx300how2/index.html

the exhaust leak is typically at the flex joint, just hold a piece of paper near it with engine running and see if it moves....

If the peddle stops moving after it reaches a certain point, but not to the floor you are probably fine....If it goes to the floor than the master is bad....

Booster leak would cause it too move slowly down, if the leak was slow....than it would get stiff when just the hydralic was actuated. Is the engine running when you test it.? If not turn it on and recheck and see if the pedal drifts downward. If it does you have a leak either in a caliper or the master you put in is defective.

Booster leak would cause it too move slowly down, if the leak was slow....than it would get stiff when just the hydralic was actuated. Is the engine running when you test it.? If not turn it on and recheck and see if the pedal drifts downward. If it does you have a leak either in a caliper or the master you put in is defective.

you bleed from the right rear first, and then moved around to the front wheels....? Sounds like you still have air in the system...if not than it is possible the master you got is bad, or the booster is leaking....

The lock motor is probably weak or bad...They tie a switch for the security system to the lock motor assembly...We on the RX site have fixed with a piggyback $5 lock motor from ebay and it works great. I know I replaced the assembly the first time with a $257 part (lexus). Search door locks on the RX300 forum and you will be enlightened...here is post http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&hl=

Yea attaching the speaker should be simple, The mute is important because it shuts power down to the speakers before the speakers are used for the Motorola....

I too as posted found a local tranny shop and asked about failures on this tranny, He said it was 90%of the time the planetary gears failing....The original was an aluminum carrier with steel gears, the replacement in his shop is a steel carrier, and also the addition of two more gears to provide a more robust support...Remember the highlander didnt come out till 2001, hince probably had upgraded gears and carrier.

Well here is a posting from CL site for reprogramming, and yes your contributions in the future are all That I want to see, we try to help everyone...Good luck http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/72242-successful-key-transponder-programming.html

one note, do not use aftermarket sensors for the Air/fuel (Bosch) Use Denso only and somewhere U read they are real down in price, Amazon has them for around $100 or less for the Denso.....I believe it is a 234-9009

your too funny, anybody that take him serious should feel guilty, and go get an IQ test.

where did you get the alternator...maybe it is defective. A good alternator should put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts while engine is running....and lights on. If not it is bad. Also are all of the battery cable connections good. Also check the ground wire for good continuity to the chassis and engine...

You might change the PCV valve, maybe there is too much back pressure....Then take car to a do it yourself carwash and spray the underside of the engine down....Check for leaks from that point.

I installed the Motorola 850 and use the external speaker...The Tap for the mute was done on the amp behind the rear seat (RX300) dont know if it is located the same on the RX330. The external speaker is mounted under the dash near the steering wheel, gives great volume and comfortable to listen to.

I would reset the code and drive it, then hopefully a secondary code comes up....Probably the Air/fuel sensors going bad.....

All of the parts are OEM manufacturors...Aisin is the producer of Toyota Waterpumps, Koyo for the Bearings etc.. I did this on my daughters Toyota Sequoia and trust me the parts are first class....

Make sure that kit includes the OEM or Mitusobishi Belt....Other belts are not as good. The Kit I found cost around $220 on Ebay and used All OEM manufactured parts, timing belt, bearings, waterpump, etc. This is the kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120538654485&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

You might try a drain and fill, and replace the filter and see if it helps....Your quote is actually pretty cheap...

The ML is a great driving car. Before I bought our RX300 in Novmember of 1998 I actually bought an ML and turned it back in. I ran a vehicle history report and in its short life of 6 months it had been in the shop 27 times...Went to Lexus and havent looked back. The ML definetly has a better turning radius, and I am sure the German engineering was great, but the product reliablilty has not been good....Probably because of the use of American venders for most of their parts, and made in Alabama...Hopefully the new ones are vastly improved....I would check JD Powers and see if their reliablilty has improved....Good luck

The correct fluid is Toyota type red....Very expensive though....

Doesnt sound right, I did a quick search and found the 2002 Camry hub is the same...Just checked one site. (Parts Geek.com)

I am using Cherry Veneer for my Ford F150 project....So far good, I am coat 7....