UCF3

I get the feeling Psychowu46 isn't interested in modifying the car like we are. Most people on our forum like to maintain their cars by getting some advice, and perhaps add some cheap easy mods. Nothing fancy, just to let the car breath a little better.

DO NOT STEAM CLEAN YOUR ENGINES. Yes, I am yelling, sorry. You are setting yourself up for total, expensive nightmares. You better do so more searching on this and other Lexus/Supra forums. There tons of nightmare stories of totally screwed electronics causing expensive damage to these (SC3/4) engines. Mis-firing, water in plug wire holes shorting out expesive cables and on and on. Do the search! Don't listen to this, at least half of you will be kicking yourself. Would you steam clean your TV or stereo, even after protecting everything with plastic? Do not do it to these engines. If you've done it and gotten away with it you are freaking lucky, keep at it and you'll join the never again crowd. ok, back to normal, sorry about the rant.:chairshot: Well, I covered up my distributor, battery terminals and sensors with plastic bag, and rubberbands. That prevents replacing certain hoses and sensors.

WOw, I didn't think they were going to make these for Street cars. I wouldn't get them, because they're designed for Open Wheel Cars, with the proper balance on each wheel. MKTbully: Regarding your previous post about effectiveness. I think they're really effective. There are no gases to build-up, and slow down the performance of your brakes. I opted for the very expensive 13" Wilwoods on my LS. I used to brake from 60-0 around 142ft. Now it's like 100ft. True, they're racing style brakes, but they're worth the money, especially on such a big car like the LS.

I think I'll opt for the Craftmans. Sounds very easy to use, and returnable if it doesn't work. :)

They're very expensive. The cheapest OEM ones that I could find cost $900. You could call a few junk yards to see if someone has one. If the junk yards have them cheaper, let me know.

Wow, that is one expensive side markers. I think the TOM'S ones are cheaper.

AWJ: I read the article in SCCM about Garrett, and the clones. See, you have to understand, I am exposed to turbos, but they're larger than Street versions. Most of the mechanics I deal with, attach single large turbos which are significantly better compared to older twin street versions. I didn't realize it was large for street application. I talked to one of my friends, and he told me about the DryJet Nitros & Turbo setup above. He doesn't think it's that great for true race, but drag.

Actually, if you guys check out the pinned Thread called Climate/Clock, you'll find two places where they refurbish our Clock and Climate units. It's a very common problem with our first gen LS400s. If you're interested in replacing the bulbs yourself, I believe the latter link to Jim Walker has some interesting info. on where you can purchase the bulbs. Check it out. That's why we pinned it.

It varies from car to car. Different parts expire at different times. Since you live up in the city, it's possible yours will fail earlier than someone who lives in the south. I've heard some owners on this forum changing their shocks around 200k. Control Arms a little earlier than that. Bushings earlier than that. I've changed mine shocks and coils around 170k because I wanted a harder ride. Now the car feels like the Cadillac(as in it floats) instead of a BMW. If money is tight, I would suggest saving money and adding to it. When something breaks or fails, you have the money to replace it. Sometimes there are repairs that can't be done in the garage, and Toyota or Lexus service techs are needed. What Mapman mentioned about the control arm can also be a possibility. For the bushings, you can tell if they're defective, by looking for oil leaks, or a very soft squeeze of the bushing.

Okay guys, let's not pick on someone who does not know what the SLR is! So Bill, did you win the lottery somewhere? :)

GreenStuff is your best choice. Red Stuff is for racing applications.

You could also take the car to Toyota. they should be able to solve as well. If you lived near Albany, NY, I would have recommended a dealer, and my parts guy could get you OEM parts. Sorry we couldn't help.

Good size. Don't forget to add some pictures for us to look at. Good luck

Something else you should do. Think of it as preventive maintenance. Each day you drive your car to work, home, etc, make sure to drive for a minimum of 20 minutes. This way your alternator will have finished charging your battery, and your battery will last longer than before.

Finally, the correct answer.

Why don't you just buy a battery from Walmart or Sears, and Install it. That should do the trick.

How about tread patterns? Are they the same on all four? If there's nothing wrong with your suspension, I can't think of anything else. :(

Can't be precise about any assessment without the car being in front of me or hearing it. Test out on a Dry, sunny day :) It's possible that your strut Towers are slightly loose. Take a fitting open wrench to the nuts of the struts and try tightening them. Tighten the three nuts. Try driving the car over those bumps, and see if it's still making noise. If it does, it could be a bad strut on either side. Your clicking noises while turning, could be a ball joint problem, an axle or boot that needs to be replaced, or related to the strut. Take a look underneath your car, and look for some wet spots. Try to ID the specific parts leaking oil. You might want to replace them first. If there are no leaks, try removing your front wheel, and shake the strut towers. If your strut shakes, tighten the top nuts same as the pic above. If the car shakes it nothing is loose. As I mentioned above, I can't really analyze your problem without the car being present. If non of those tests solve the problem, I would recommend taking the car to Toyota or a Toyota/Lexus Speciality Shop. I believe another member has mentioned a shop exits in NJ--don't know the name or the city. You might want to check out some of the other Threads in the LS and SC forum. Otherwise, I'd also recommend a Lexus or Toyota Dealer Upstate. Sorry

I haven't upgraded my exhaust yet, so I have the least Mufflers experience. Borla, Flowmaster, or Magnaflow are good. Greddy has an exhaust system listed ontheir Website for the SC300. HKS has some equipment you could look at. I would recommend 3.5" pipes, if you're thinking about turbos in the future, and can afford paying for a custom setup. Be carefull though. There are certain states that forbid it. PS: Instead of calling Rod Millen, you could call Stillen. they're the same family.

The only time people I've seen switching from Two to One, is when they're ready to upgrade to a large turbo charger. I think you should display your turbocharger. I wouldn't mind checking out what the TOyomoto turbos look like.

<_< I'm actually starting to believe it's the Thermostat. That's the only device that can send wrong signals. if not, it could be gauge reader itself. My LS has a faulty fuel level sensor. When it's cold outside it tells me the fuel is half way down( when it's full), and I have to wait until the block is completely warmed up.

Ouch

I know there's a rev limiter, so I wouldn't be surprised if there's a speed limitor.

I get the feeling, he didn't go to a reputable place. Otherwise they would have done that by now, especially since he told them, my car is overheating and cooling strangely. Fix it and paid $700.

Oh, I know that, about the big turbos, but the most efficient setups call for another Turbo. That should keep the heat down; correct me if I'm wrong, AWJ. I wouldn't be surprised if this setup has another turbo down there. So AWJ, you think that's a T3 or T4 turbo? Also, does your Turbo setup look something like this?