UCF3

Do you have a check engine light on? If it isn't on, chances are it's the relay or an electrical connection to your cluster. If you can take apart the Guage Cluster, i'd check for burn marks and so on. I'd also check the fuse boxes under the dash and in the engine bay. Check the Pinned threads in the LS and the SC Forums for direction on how to, even if they are for the 93-94. They should be very close. Unfortunately, I don't have a copy of the wiring diagram, but someone else on the forum might.

VMF is correct. Gen I starting from the 89-93.5 Production years because the chassis never changed, until the early 94 when the chassis and engine powerplant changed a tad. You can figure that out once you look for suspension parts for Gen I. JDPimp: the OEM Pioneer speaker in the doors are 4". You can also get more information from Best buy and other retailers.

Replacing the PS pump should be your last resort. Since you mentioned the pump wasn't loosing any fluid, remove the air pockets that may be still in the system. Start the car, remove the PS Pump cap, and turn the steering wheel to all the way. Keep on doing it until it stops whinning. If it does, you don't have to replace the pump, yet. I would definitely keep an eye on the fluid level though.

I'd also replace the oil pan gasket, exhaust and header gaskets.

I wouldn't add Prolong to my car, because I really don't know what they're claim consists off. I would just do your normal maintenance, perhaps switching to Synthetic Motor Oil, add fuel injection cleaner, and just watching over the engine. They're will be problems down the road. Just be prepared to fix them.

If you guys don't mind me butting in, but what's the point for having ESKs? I assume it's for Drag applications, but wouldn't it be prudent to find someone making a Padel shifter or E-shifter, where you have control over the shifting?

I don't think you'll find to many SCs with rust on them. Because they're rear-wheel-Drive, most people don't want to operate the car in snow, especially up north. My dad didn't use my LS during winter when we lived in Syracuse. He kept using my G20, until he joined the SUV family.

Holy crap, it's a Soarer bumper cover in the saphire green/blue. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...bayphotohosting I'd be careful. Why would they be selling JDM Parts for so cheap?

Is it a 93 SC3 with a 5sp or an auto?

I am, but I won't be racing you with my LS, but my SC. I'm just kidding.

It could be $180. It usually takes about an 1.5 hours + parts. It depends on what the hourly rate is! To me it doesn't sound that bad, but you could get a little less.

Spoon: Run the diagnostic and see what the error light it.

I pinned it in the Workshop Tutorials Forum.

Sounds like your changer needs to be rebuilt. Before you give up, take another CD (not a downloaded) version and drop it in. See if it plays, then it's the CD. Otherwise it's likely the player reader/head that needs to be replaced. Try contacting United Radio. They can rebuild the Pioneers. Nakamichi repairs, Factory Car stereo Repairs, Inc.

use 10w30 on a high mileage car. fram will do. Tips: warm your oil before you empty the pan. Big bucket or pan always helps since there's a lot of oil. Take your oil out and replace your filter with a little screen. Put your new oil in, and then you're done ;)

The difference between a cold air intake and just a regular intake is location. Cold Air Intakes sucks air near the bottom of the car where the air is thicker and colder. Regular intakes just suck the air near the block, an OEM location. As for your other intake options, I would suggest you visit the Performance Parts and FAQ thread, pinned in this forum.

It's up to you how you want to do this. You could pay the dealer to do the job, but many of us will tell you that it would be cheaper and more filling when you do it yourself. What you could do, since it seems like you don't know how to do this, you should pay the dealer, but watch them, especially the way they do it. This way if you have another chip, you could tackle it. Also, I would recommend getting the clear-plastic bras for the front of your car. You'll have to talk to some people about where you can get it done. Expect to pay a little, since it's time consuming and a custom job. PS, I've moved you inquiry to the ES Forum.

I don't think it's a bad car to buy. Replacing parts is part of the fun, and it all depends on where you get the parts from. I have a 95 with 202,000miles, and so far my engine runs pretty well. My advise, is look for some crutial problems, oil leaks of any kind, electronics, physical damage, and so on. Also look if the car was damaged before, carfax, missing stickers, spray on body paint and so on. Take your to the dealer and pay them for the Pre-Certification Inspection and insist on getting a through job on the engine and electronics. If you have your own mechanic take him/her with you, and rip apart the block and every part involved with the engine and tranny, differential, wheels and tires, undercarriage and so on. Use your best judgement, and do a through job.

No, mine doesn't off the line. If I want to spin-it, using the brakes i can, and the Wilwoods help a lot. Right now, I'm have my winter treads on, but during summer I've left a couple of small patches (Z-Rated). Oh, I forgot to mention, I have 18s on, so mine grip like .

Yeah, the first Gen LSs are non-interference engines. I can confirm that for you as well. Regarding the timing belt, i would suggest checking out the Workshop tutorials section. I believe there are some instructions on how to take the covers off the LS. If not, PM me. jbrubaker: I also recommend the 96 over the first Gen. One of the significant differences, better suspension on Gen II, and more aftermarket parts available. Overall, better car.

I believe it's 22inches, but don't quote me on it. I believe your car was in an accident before, hence the reason why one light is generally higher than the other. Some of my friends have mentioned the left side light is supposed to be a tad higher than the right (some Federal Reg, might be at work), but I feel they should be equal.

Alright "alexus", that's enough LS bashing. Time for you to purrrrr-back[avatar] to the GS Forum ;) CanadaCraig: Let's go over some of your issues. I believe you should consider replacing your fuel injectors. One or more of them maybe spaying late or not enough. If you don't want to replace them, consider adding fuel injection cleaner for the next six months. Also, use the ECT Switch when you're racing. It revs, and sparks Torque at a higher rate, and will help you beat many competitors. An intake is not a bad idea. Do you still warm your car up correctly? you remember, the way I've mentioned in the past. That will help maintain your car's powertrain efficiency. Kind of curious, but why is everyone facinated with the idea of burning-rubber? It's such a waste, and you only need it if your tires aren't warm.

The following attachment is a downloadable .PDF file from Lexus.com. It is a step-by-step procedure on how to troubleshooting common vibration problems for every Lexus. Please read through. Suspension_and_Axle_Issues.pdf

UCF3, Do you think the pdf could be "pinned " somehere in the maintenance section - since it has Lexus Diagnostics & troubleshooting. These suspension / axle /vibration questions are constantly being ask, so maybe it will help start owners out in the right direction..... 99 Ok.

You should also ask Toyota, just in case they have they're the same and cheaper. Have you ever thought of checking with Pep Boys or nAPA? I think they sell them as well.