m2pc

LOL thats exactly what I was looking at. I was wondering whether I should change out my plug wires along with the plugs, and since its been 6+ years and the next recommended spark plug change is at 120 with the two pronged platinums, I guess cables as well. Anywhoo, here is from the 1998 Lexs Owners Manual supplement for 60,000 miles (page 83) replace the following: engine oil & filter, engine air filter, spark plugs (with a little note that requires this for your emmisions warranty), coolant, brake fluid, air conditioner filter (mines didn't come with one), rotate your tires. I'll leave out the inspection stuff, but they do reccomend the follwoing optional things: tranny and differential fluid change, inspect the body/chassis bolts (anyone know what in particular and what torque settings?) I would definately do the tranny fluid and differential, its an easier DIY than an oil change, just make sure you don't overfill or underfill when replacing. Since you also have a 1998 es300 as well, the tranny fluid is Dexron III equivalent. Good luck!

I am able to buy Redline 5w-30 for as little as $6.30 a qt if I buy a case. But thats easy since I can buy 6 5w-30 and 6 qts of the D4 tranny fluid. I love the D4, instead of paying to have it flushed for $250? I'll just drain and fill every 7,500 miles. The D4 as a Dexron replacement is excellent I'm happy with the product. I like the Amsoil, at 6500 miles it was very dark, but I am sure it was still ok, but I couldn't bring myself to go to 7500 or 10k. I would think that Redline may handle the high temps and shearing of the es300 better since it has a slighlty higher flash point. But all these oils are very good, Amsoil, Redline, Mobile1, and I heard Royal purple as well, but I havent really researched that as well.

Monarch, I did a flush and fill this year. Was actually pretty easy. But was thinking that it would be easier for me just to drain and fill yearly rther than flush and fill bi-yearly. Do you drain, fill with distilled, run and drain again, then fill? or just drain radiator and maybe the front drain plug? The pink-pre-mixed extra long life was not worth it for me. It cost about double that of the straight coolant.

Not sure, but funny that you ask as I was just looking at my manual. Any particular mileage interval you want to know about?

Congrats!

I use Amsoil, pretty happy with it. Would also trust to use Mobil 1 synthetic, but After I run out of my supply of Amsoil, I will give Redline a try.

Thanks AMF, this is what I suspected.

Was wondering if bleeding the brakes is any different than a Non-ABS system. Have bled brakes without ABS and is more time consuming than difficult. Is there anything special that I need to be aware of when bleeding brakes with an ABS system? Also, any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I was told by a Lexus tech that if your model calls for Toyota T-IV, use only that. I was also told that if your model calls for Dex II or III, use only Dex III (Dino or Synthetic your choice). The T-IV and Dex II or III are not interchangeable, there is a Toyota technical service bulletin that states this, I am sure a Toyota or Lexus tech can dig it up. This may be due to differences in frictional characteristics. For the Synthetics, I like the handling of the higher temp, but in the Northeast, it handled the cold starts of -10 F pretty well.

I've drained and filled 2X in the last 2500 miles and it is still a little darker than fresh fluid. So it will take a few drain and fills to get the color to the fresh fluid. My 98 es300 takes Dex III so I went with Redline D4 and feels great, no slipping. 1st drain and fill, the shifting seemed a little smoother. After the 2500 miles later and a 2nd drain and fill, the tranny feels great, still no slipping. If the fluid does not smell burnt and is a little dark, the fluid is probably ok, it doesn't hurt to drain and fill though.

Mixed city (30%) and highway(70%) around 19-23 MPG

I had the exact problem a year ago. I went to http://rimandwheelworks.com/ in Newton Mass and they did an excellent job. If you are looking to repair, they will do a great job if it can be done. Good luck

5k on a good synthetic would be a safe bet. I am using 5-w30 amsoil ASL and was told that the engine in a 98 es300 is very tough on the oil. Based on his used oil analysis, he thinks 6,000 to 7,500 should not be a problem, but does not recommend over 10,000 unless verifying with an oil analysis. Other synthetics that I would consider are Mobil M1 SS and Redline, although the redline may cost too much to be cost effective for me.

My 98 takes Dexron III. So I switched to Redline D4 Synthetic in the tranny and differential and performed a double drain and fill. It shifts fine, actually a little better. The prior change was performed 15k miles prior and I was suprised that shifting was starting to change only after such a short interval. Since mines is a 98 and yours is a 97, I would think you would use Dexron III. Check the dipstick. If you do, for a non-synthetic, I probably would use Valvoline maxlife and for synthetic, the choices for me were Mobil1, Amsoil universal, or the Redline D4. Can you tell us what synthetic brand and what spec the synthetic meets?

I switched to synthetic at 45k. No problems. Glad I did as I don't need to change it out until sometime in spring due to the extended OCI. If you are going to change out every 3k, then it probably makes more sence to stick with a good Dino.

I check mines on a normal basis as I had two bad seals. But yes, it looks a little droopy where it contacts the ground. Just a little though, but best bet is to check your tire pressure yourself in the morning. If it is 32 psi, no worries!

Be careful not to spill the DOT III fluid, I believe it melts plastic and is definately not good for your paint. After you open the container, mark when it was open, the fluid absorbs moisture so after a few years, you might not want to use the fluid from that old container (ths is what I've been told - not sure if htere is any truth to it ).

Great advice, Didn't even think of that, I guess I got luck when I changed out my brake pads :D

Thanks StevieJ, I don't mind paying a little extra for the long life, but my big concern is whethere they are compatible ornot. It might not matter since I am going to try and get out as much as possible anyways (Finally got info on where all the drain plugs are located :). I'll pay a visit there, thanks for the info :P

I would think they are pretty good. Will give more braking power than a ceramic and cause less wear on the rotors than a full metallic. I was also thinking of bleeding the brake fluid with ATE superblue. Is bleeding the car with an ABS system any different? Manual doesn't seem to indicate its any different.

I called the part department at a Toyota dealership looking for the red radiator fluid and he said he also had the premixed long life Pink fluid. Anyone know what thats all about?

I replaced them with Akebone ProAct ceramic pads. Supposedly they are a OEM manufacturer. They have the same feel as the originals, little dust and no squeels after the change. Definately get ceramics if anything, my brother in law got some mettallics and his occasionally squeels (and I can't imagine what its doing to his rotors).

Although you don't have to use them, they are recommended. I put ceramics on myself and the feel is the same as the originals (because they were also ceramic). I have minimal brake dust and NO sqeaking noise whatsover. My brother in law on the other hand went for mettalics, saved a few bucks, but can live with the noise. As wolfmoon said, its a tradeoff where the ceramics provide a certain pedal feel. Just remeber though, although metallics may last longer, if they are not wearing down as fast, that means your rotors are more like to wear down faster. ( I think they aslo produce more brake dust as well).

Not sure, but doesn't autozone check out the alt to see if its operating correctly? How old is the battery, maybe it can't hold the charge?

Wow, now thats 2 in Texas :) Any in Massachuseets? Yeh, with all this cold, I WISH I was in Texas Today was in in the Teens for a high in Mass and even with a new battery, Synthetic oil and ATF, still took three cranks to start.... we'll see how the Lex does this weekend, High of 11F