m2pc

Although I do many of the maintenace items myself, there are some items that I would want either the dealer or a knowledgeable Lexus shop to perform: e.g struts, timing belt.... I would bring my ride to JPI, but Garland, TX is a bit of a haul for me. Can we start a listing of trustworthy shops that specialize in Lexus vehicles that we know about and the area that it is in? So I already named one: JP IMPORTZ Independent Lexus & Toyota Auto Services and Repair 3521 Security Garland tx 75042 214-221-3135 Anyone know of one in the Massachusetts, MetroWest (prefereable or even Greater Boston) area?

Thanks for the info

Can anyone tell me if there is any difference or why Toyota changed the part number of the OEM oil filter for the es300? My model year is a 1998. In the past, I bought the Toyota OEM oil filter (Made in Japan) Model # 90915-YZZB9. Now they have replaced both the US and Japan made ones with 90915-YZZD1. Anyone know why? Construction, where produced, different manufacturer? If anyone has pics of one of these cut open, I'd really be interested to see them.

There are three drain plugs for the 1998 es300 to release the radiator fluid. One is on the radiator itself and two are on the engine block. The radiator plug is not a problem, and the drain plug towards the front of the engin block (a little above and to the right of the oil filter) is easy to find. I can't for the life of me find the 3rd drain, can anyone give a good description or pic of where it is? Also, the drain on the engine block, to drain the fluid, I guess you release by turning the outer bolt and not the actual bolt that is connected to the block (looks like a smaller bolt (A) that is screwed in a slightly larger main bolt (B) that is connected to the engine block.

JPI, Thanks for all your help, was able to use a big 10mm allen wrench on the differential plug and that did the trick. So I drained the tranny fluid after driving around so I guess I did a double flush. You was right, the total for both the tranny and the differential seems to be around 3.5 qts. and yes you was right about the 98 differential filled through the atf dipstick. I verified this after draining the differential by pouring in about a quarter qt of ATF and I then removed the plug again and there it was draining out of the plug :) Don't know if the ATF tube goes directly to the differential or the ATF , but it sure got there quick. Now the fluid looks cherry red and life is good:) Thanks again for your help!

Well, finally changed out the transmission fluid and differential (well kinda). 10mm hex nut works great. BUT.....the 10mm socket and the socket didn't have enough clearanceto get to the differential drain, was bumping into part of the suspension frame. Any suggestions? The 10mm hex socket is a craftsman. Also, I expected to drained out and fill at least 3.5 qts of tranny fluid, only drained and refilled 2.3-2.5qts from the tranny, this seem out of normal? I just re-used the old washer (even though I had a new one - 'cause I'm thinking I'm going to do this again relatively soon again) and torqued it down to around 36 ft-lBbs. Although the last tranny fill was 15k ago, the drained fluid, although pink, was not the cherry red of the new fluid and has a slightly different smell. I wonder if this is because the last fluid change was around 3 years ago? I guess I could try an allen wrench and if that works, I'll drain and fill both the tranny and differential again. Thanks for any help in advance

Ouch, bethca, not sure how my wife did this, but must have been similiar as the doors locked as well with the keys in the car. Problem was, she had a 1 year old in the car as well so the firefighters came because the baby was crying and she panicked. Yup, good to carry the spare (even though mines won't start the car).

Ooops, sorry, thats probably why he referenced 2002 or later as thatis the Turanza model that came stock?

I know you asked for 2002 and later, but here my experience: I have a 98 es300 and have Turanza LS-Vs. Little stiff, but I like the grippiness. Great in rain and dry pretty decent in snow. Little slow in responsiveness versus Michelins Pilots (on another vehicle), but better in the rain than them. A little noisy but I like them, the noise and bumpiness doesn't bother me as I had an Acura TL before. For what I am looking for, I would buy them again.

Well, with all the talk about the toyota v-6 engine sludging (potential), I decided that I was going to try and take care of my ride as much as possible. I will use synthetic oil and change out every 5-7k miles, use synthetic ATF fluid, eventually have a fuel system cleaning at probably 60k. As for cleaning the engine, I am going to try out a product called auto-rx. I chose this product after going to bobistheoilguy website and reading up on it. Most additives, I stay away from because I believe they are just snakeoil, but there are some products that do deliver (for the most part anyways) what they advertise, just like Zaino (which is still holding up after 4 months). Anyways, I chose this system because of all the feedback and that it seemed the safest and a non-toxic way to clean out my rides insides :) So I hjave 45k on a 1998 es300 with no problems, has been well maintained, but power seemed to have dropped off as well as the MPG has dropped, even after switching to a synthetic oil while keeping driving habits the same (I monitor and record gas useage and mileage). Anywhoo, there was a special running and its cheaper than having an engine flush that may or may not cause more damage than good. Just wanted to share with you guys the application instructions in case you wanted to give it a try or more importantly, to get feedback from those of you who have already tried it. Here is what I sent to them regarding my application and the responce: " Thanks Frank for informing me of the shipping date. I am fine with the date, I just wanted to take advantage of the special ;) BTW, this is my situation and what I plan to do, please advise if you see anything wrong: I have a a 1998 lexus es300 with one of the infamous sludge monster engine. It has 45,000 miles and exhibits no problems, I am performing the auto-rx as a preventive type maintenance and if I get better performance I will be happy. I have recently started using Amsoil 5-w30 synthetic. At 5,000 to 6,000 miles with this oil, I will 1). change out only the oil filter and add my first application of auto-rx (I will top off with non-synthetic). Drive 1,500 to 1,800 miles and 2) replace oil filter and oil (non-synthetic) and drive another 2,000 miles. Can you recommend the rinse oil? I know the site bobistheoilguy says to use low esthers, but I don't know enough about oils and their formulations to know which one to pick. 3)Put new non-synthetic oil and new filter with bottle of auto-rx. Drive 1,000 miles. 4). Rinse by changing oil and filter and drive 2-3000 more miles. 5) be happy and go back to preferred oil :) Besides what rinse oil to use, is an oil filter that filters down to smaller particles (like Mobil1 filters) better or I was just going to add a supertech filter. Thanks for your advice. Response: First, thank you for contacting Auto-Rx and asking us for an overview of your plan, this is where you get factual information. 1. You don't want to mix a synthetic oil with a non-synthetic oil. 2. As you stated you have an engine prone to sludge. Your wisest course of action is to use the Auto-Rx Application "Special Instructions for Heavy Sludge And Oil Burning Engines". Go to www.auto-rx.com and click on application link and then link for "Special Instructions" and print it out. Follow these instructions and you will be more than pleased with your Auto-Rx application. Your Lexus will stay free of sludge by using this proven application."

So I don't have to drain the coolant from the engine block? Do I have to worry about air pockets if I don't open up all three drains?

For 1997 and 1998 es300, the filter is in the rectangular white plastic piece next to the gas pedal. I have seen these in these years, but not sure about a 1999.

On the 98 es300, its a Hex nut, not a Torx, you sure its a torx (looks like a star?)? anywho, for the 98, I'm pretty sure its a 10mm.

20 to 22 MPG mixed driving

In my 98 es300, I have been trying the 87 to see if I can tell a difference. No knocking ever encountered, HOWEVER, under certain conditions, hard acceleration from start on an incline, I have experienced a slight lag (very short, but noticible when you are accelarating so you won't get T-boned or rear-ended by oncoming traffic :whistles: ) about three times so far under these conditions. But for the majority of my driving, 87 if fine. Next up, I will see if the 89 octane does the same.

Awesome! Gotta show some pics! Now I gotta get a orbital buffer. Those pens really work as advertised?

Sorry to hear about it :o I got hit in the rear bumper where the other car left the license plate indentations on the bumper. The shop replaced the car bumper cover with an OEM one and painted it. Looks good, but time will tell. I think it cost about $500. Either got to worry about the idiots using you car as a end-stopper in 3-pt parking or you have to worry bout the idiots who swing their doors open at full speed. I have this small indent from someones door corner and although it is not noticable, I know its there :( So you know I why I start to hyperventilate when I see some !Removed! parking 6 inches away from my car :chairshot:

Well, you can replace the grungy looking plate with a classy one like this one: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=ST&f=23&t=514&

You guys are great! :D

Ahhhh, speaking about those "warranties" don't forget that the emissions was also extended (for 1998 that I know of), I think it is even longer than the engine warranty.

Also, in those few cases that proper maintenace is established and gelling does occur, I think that as someone else mentioned, this is going to happen for other makes & models as well. Another thing that we do not know is the driving habit, did the car get in an accident before? Did they use the severe or normal maintenace schedule? I would do the engine flush with Lexus, as I would do what I can and is under my control.

Normally, I wouldn't do the flush, but in your case Amanda, I think I would also do it. If the difference isn't too great, I would let Lexus do it. Maybe I am over-rationalizing it, but since Lexus knows you may have a potential issue, as well as they would perform any warranty work for a gelled up engine, at least they know you tried the flush with them.

Read that you remove the subwoofer assembly to access it. Search of brake light turned this up: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...&hl=brake+light

Amanda, I thought the vibration was there when it is in park? I hear some sounds like the ones you describe, but not too bad, sounds like its coming from the alternator/belt area, but I always thought that it might be valve lash. Car drives well, so I just leave it alone. But I have been following some of your post and the sound may be a different thing from the vibrations. Did they ever do a rebalance for you? And you mentioned that these are new tires, did it also vibrate with the prior set of tires? Some of the incidental charges sound iffy to me, like the washer fluid, but the bulbs are definately going to be a separate charge, somewhere about $30-$40?

SW03es, which claybars are recommended? are all claybars pretty much the same? I've heard of Pinnacle, meguirs, zaino, and now from this post Mothers. Since autozone is easy to get to, if Mothers is the same as all others, it would seem the most convenient to get.