m2pc

I am using Zaino. Great stuff, initial proccess is long if you want to do it right (Clay, couple of layers), but easy as Zymol after that ( I used to use Zymol). Shine is great but the polymers "Last" a long time and beads like crazy.

You said they came on again and they blew out again. If you put new ones in, are they functional? If they are, is any water getting into your assemblies? Unless you got a bad replacement?

skperformance, what is the earliest mileage you would recommend a throrough fuel injection cleaning? Also, I found a place that does a Bilstein r-200 engine flush for 2/3 the price of the dealer cost (dealer uses the BG system). IS the engine flush a waste of money?

I think this is what you are looking for: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...t=ST&f=7&t=399& Oh, yeh, the tab on the shield is actually a tab within a tab. When the top one is fully inserted, it pushes the botom tab and makes it stay in place. You have to lift the top one first, do this by using a small flathead and try seperating the top flat piece from the one it sits on top of. Looking at it, you never would have guessed that it is not a single piece. Good luck

Wash by hand, rinse wash mitt often. Most car washes will put the very fine scratches that you see at close range. Find a good and legit "touchless" car wash. I found this one, but be sure that they are really touchless and not just a hose spaying down your car. http://www.erniescarwash.com/ happy motoring in your ride!

Thanks, will let you know what I find. I did pull back the carpet and not there as you said. I will try looking up.

I have the manual, and looked for it. Nope not in there. Is it in the supplemental manual? What did you find it under? Filters? I have the owners manual and a cheapo Chiltons, not much there.

Anyone know where the Air conditioning filter is in a 1998 ES300?

oops, :o , didn't ralize that I posted in the GS forum. Thanks, I'lll go to the right place ;)

For rust spots, I sand out existing rust, hopefully it is a small area and put touch up. Like yourself, I just don't want it to spread. After that you need to thoroughly clean and wax your car on a regular basis. Especially in the winter time with all that salt, get the undercarriage washed every now and then. Pay extra attention to the wheel well and edge areas. Not sure what condition your paint is in, but you may want it clayed, compounded & buffed. If your clearcoat or paint is in bad shape, then the last recommendations won't really help much.

Don't know about the 96 year, but I am pretty sure I could do the timing belt and water pump at 90K on a 98 es300. I would check your manual, the 60k may be for severe conditions.

I am looking into Mobil1 or Amsoil synthetic. found a distributor who wll sell it comparable to Mobil1. Question is, since the synthetics cost 3-4 times more /qt, how often do you change out the oil? I was thinking 5-7k miles.

I just bought an Amsoil Drp in filter. Cheaper than the k&n and re-usable. I'll let you guys know if there is any increase in MPG. I doubt any performance increase.

the 98 es300 states to use Dexron II or III for tranny. Any advantage to use Toyota T4? I am only goona perform a drain and add, so is the mixture of T4 and Dexron II or III ok? Thanks

I think there is one in the 98 es300 as well. Can anyone tell me where it is? I want to change it out.... thanks

If you have'nt found a distibutor yet, I found www.syntheticwarehouse.com Ches quoted me prices below retail :P

Ouch!

I was just checking my fluid levels and the power steering fluid is at the Min level. Now this may be a dumb question, but since I don't know, I'm gonna ask. Does it matter whether or not I get the fluid from Lexus or can I just go to an Autozone? I mean fluid is fluid right, or you guys think there is a difference in the quality between the dealers stuff and aftermarket? I guess my questions also extends to transmission and anti-freeze coolant as well. Any and all inputs are greatly appreciated!

Prozac is right, This is the same on the '98. I remember the dealer telling me that for winter snow buildup, you could "click" them up, about 1-2 inches I think, and this would be the low point of the wipe. But, I just replaced my wipers doing what Prozac just described.

I've used Zymol in the past with great results. I have given Zaino a try and it is also very good. If it last longer, which I suspect a polymer will, I will stay with polymers like Klasse or Zaino. I guess it all comes down with a product you are happy and comfortable with.

I am debating what to get as well. Go to www.tirerack.com and they give you lots of choices. I am leaning towards Bridgestone 950s, Turanza LS-H or V or I dunno about TOYO Proxes I think? I want something that is decent in snow as well after the last winter in NE. Let me know what you go with.

I just changed mines, cause with 37,500 miles I figure it was time. After removing the front, looked like I could get 10-15K more. The rears looked even better. I found a great place that sell the Akebone Proact Pads at a decent price. So far no squeals or noise and they came with shims and brake grease. I went with these ceramics because supposedly they are OEM quality or better. After replacing front and rear, braking is no different or maybe a tad better than before. Good luck

I am also looking to replace my tires for a 98 es300. I was considering the Potenza 950's or the Turanza LS-V. Any thoughts?

I have the same problem and Clublexus did not provide a definitive answer. But I was able to finally figure it out so here goes: I have a '98 ES 300 and my front passenger turn signal is failed so I get the annoying blinkety blink at a high rate ( I think this is to force you to replace before you go insane :P ). So, this is what I did - on a 1998 ES300: 1. Remove the the plastic retaining pin - kinda tricky until you figure out how to do this. It is actually a pin within a pin which when both pin heads are flush, it pushes open the bottom of the pin to prevent the pin from popping out. So carefully raise the top pin from the bottom (they are flush so you cant even tell that there are two things there). 2. After you remove this you should be able to slightly lift the plastic cover and have access to a small phillips head screw that holds down the assembly. 3. This is the tricky part and this drove me nuts for a monthv - you remove the fixture by sliding the assembly from the rear to the front of the care. 4. Its tight and it finally dawned on me how to get more leverage since I don't have GI Joe kung fu grip fingers. I used a small plastic tie wrap and inserted into the hole that the phillips screw was in and gently, but steadily pulled forward with this while I also used my free hand to guide and also provide some force. 5. Success! Now you have access to the bulb - let me know if anyone has a better or easier way