m2pc

Sears sells bolt remover sets. Just get a set with the right size and like someone said before, get a replacement bolt first.

For better or worse, I put a very slight amount of antiseize on them as well. I can see problems witht that rear middle bank.

Darn, for some reason, I thought the 98 es was also a non-interference :o

Hank, in the letter, they have somethng to fill out if sold, so I would think they would honor it. I would contact them at the previously posted address and inquire about it.

I've ordered from them as well and had great experiences with them. Had a problem with one of my orders one time and they took care of it right away hassle free.

I would defianely bring it up. I have a 98 and this may be the same " the evaporative storage canister" or "any other part or component between the fuel tank and the intake manifold (but not including the intake manifild) designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system" if you paid you can mail for consideration of reimbursement to Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department 190010 sOUTH wESTERN aVE mAIL sTOP l202 tORRENCE, ca 90509 gOOD LUCK and let us know how it turns out

1st check your tranny dipstick and see what it reccomends. If T-2 or T-4 stick with the Toyota Type-IV. If Dex-2 or Dex-4, your pretty open to any Dex-4 fluid you like. I've been using Redline Synthetic in my tranny for the last few drain and fills. Why would you change out the drain plug? Is it stripped? I might change out the gasket though.

Similiar, but it was in a different vehicle which water would first enter the trunk area via the rear light gasket. The wheelwell for the spare tire would always have moisture in it until I figured out what was going on.

This may seem like an odd question, but is any of the trunk area wet?

B) 35 but I feel like I'm 53

With 62k its probably time to tune it up. I changed out my plugs a little early at 55k and the rear 3 plugs were in bad shape. See if you can do some of it yourself. Otherwise, I would probably go to a Lexus Certified shop, or maybe a Toyota Dealership. I definately would do what MB says regarding the ODB 2 code read anywhoo.

I believe the 99 uses the Toyota tye IV. 98 es300 was the last es300 to use Dex3. Check the Dipstick.

Nice! Thanks MB! I guess going 7500 on the ASL is being conservative. are your miles mostly highway? City? %?

off topic but maybe a little help: Know the feeling. I had the same problem regarding the turn signal- if this is the front assembly, this is what I had to do. The problem is there is little or no leverage, what I finally did was use a very small plastic tie wrap, put it through the hole where the screw was under the plastic shroud, used this for a small handle and slowly applied pressure-pulling towards the front of the car. Worked for me

The 98 stock are the platinums. I went with the NGKs - they are stock # BKR6EKPB-11 pregapped at .044 The site that Lexus8k shows has the best prices I think. Here is another site http://www.clubplug.net/cross.html that I ordered from before finding the sparkplugs .com. For the 3-wire set, I went with OEM. The cheapest I found was at http://replacement.speedyperformanceparts....nition+Wire+Set at arounfd $48 and change, but if you order over $50, free shipping. Dealership wanted over $75

BG44k - very potent, I would not use this on a constant basis Techron, heard this is a less concentrated, but pretty much the same as BG product. I am going to try the redline SL-1 fuel additive. I think amsoil makes a decent product as well. There are so many, I'm sure there will be others who will post their experiences with other products.

Dealer will normally, unless asked to do a flush, will only perform a drain and fill of the ATF and differential. Steviej's advice is good, drain first and then flush later at the 60k, as to not take a chance of dislodging too much gunk and blocking up the mesh filter or the passageways. But If they also performed the atf & differential drain and fill at 15k as well as the 30k that you mentioned , then it is probably ok to do the flush. But I think your tranny is fine since they would have performed a drain at 30k. A drain and fill is normally around $80 at the dealership ( I think) and a flush at the dealership is around $230 or $250, can't remember. The fluid being dark doesn't guarnatee that its bad, but its probably on its way out(the fluid that is), but if you smell it and it smells burnt, then its bad. I remember after changing out at 15k interval, that my fluid was starting to turn slightly dark, so at your 25k interval, I would expect it to turn dark. Good thing you didn't wait till 90k to check ;) exdotcomer, normally when cold, (and in New England, it was really cold this winter), it will nrmally shift as you describe untill the engine warms up to operating temp, but then it will shift around 2-2.5k. Steviej, sound about right? If you plan on keeping the lex long term, I think a tune up is in order, be nice to it and it will treat you well :D

I see your post as two parts: 1. Transmission 2. Oil change For 1. When cold, it has been discussed that the tranny stays in gear to warm up the tranny fluid quicker. After its been warmed up, it should shift quicker under normal acceleration. I also have a 98 and I have gotten into the habit of changing out the fluid myself. I find it to be less work than changing the oil since there is no filter to replace. People have different opinions on tranny flushes. I would think that if you don't know the history of the ATF changes, I would go for a few gradual drain and fills. If it has been changed within 15k, a tranny flush might be the way to go. (You never mentioned total miles - is it 30K + 2.5=32.5k?) 2. Do a search on looking for sludge symptons, but main thing is to change it out regularly within 3k. If you use a synthetic oil, you can extend it out a little further. You do know that Lexus will cover the sludge issue, but you need to show some proof that you at least perform the recommended oil changes (keep your receipts from the oil changes).

Great, thats what I see as well, Thanks!

Wow, thats great! For the ATF service, I noticed the note that said the ATF and differential are filled seperately for this 1998 es300. I found this not to be true, What I did was drained only the diffential, put in a quart through the dipstick, and I found that I just wasted about a quart on new fluid but at least now I know. They are however drained seperately. Little off topic, but when checking the level, after running the car for a while (maybe I drove it too long and its running too hot), is it ok if the dipstick runs a little under a quarter inch over the full hot mark?

How many miles you have on your 98 mburnickas?

I think the key point is that the Toyota Red (long life= product marketing+ sounds great doesn't it) is silicate free and performing a drain and flush annually should do the trick of never letting too much build up. Since I flushed this year, I will probabable perform a drain and fill annually for the next 3 or 4 years ( or as long as I don't see debris in the reservoir). As long as you flushed the system, I would think you could use any coolant (as long as its no or low silicates). I stuck with the red, looks different :D

What is CPO Lexus?

Good advice! Did you change the gasket on the gas cap or the whole thing? WHat do you use to lube hinges and what rubber moldings? I will do the PVC as well. Did you buy online for the OEM wires? Thanks

I just looked up the Denso and NGK. Both are two pronged platinums, but the NGK's go for almost double! What Is the a reasoning for this?