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Nice ride! Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club. Look around and make yourself comfortable.

I am impressed!!!! I guess what my Mother always said is true...."if at first you don't succeed, try, try, and then give up." I'm kidding obviously. What a journey to finally get the results you wanted. Hope it keeps working for you and thank you for letting us know how things turned out and of your success. Many times, we work with other members problems, and they never come back and tell the folks who helped them if they were able to resolve their problem, or if the advice was of no help. By the way....what happened to the poor Deer? Paul

This teaches me to do my research more thoroughly. So then. if these are HID's, is it a reasonable assumption that a bad ballast could be involved?

Are they on the right track??? http://www.autoblog.com/2011/12/19/lexus-offers-interior-glimpse-of-new-detroit-bound-concept/?a_dgi=aolshare_email

Hi Joshua and welcome to the Lexus Owners Club. Do you know if the senors are on a seperate fuse.

In the title of your post you say HID, yet in the body you don't say if the headlight is HID or halogen. If its HID, check the ballast.

This is not for a SC400. However, the basic mechanical outline of removing the fuse/cartridge block should be similar. Hope it helps. Posted 23 November 2009 - 12:16 AM Many, many years later... I ran into this same problem. My wife left the door ajar on our 1996 Lexus LS400 and drained the battery. After jumping & charging I had no lights. I could see the 120A fuse was blown, but couldn't see how it could be removed. Searching uncovered many pleas, but no answers. Forced to figure it out for myself, I now record how to replaced the 120A cartridge fuse in my model, and no doubt many others: This Lexus has about 50 separate fuses in two fuse boxes (engine & dash). The small fuses are 7.5A, 10A, 15A, etc. The cartridge fuses are in a separate container attached to the main engine fuse container, but under the same cover. The small fuses can be pulled out, but the cartridge fuses are bolted in from both sides and cannot be removed without dismounting the entire container. 1. Remove the battery. You'll need the room. 2. Remove the single nut attaching the right side of the cartridge container. 3. Lift the container up off the plastic post holding the left side to the main fuse container. This post snaps into place, so use a tiny screwdriver to bend the plastic loop of the cartridge case, releasing the snap. (If that's not clear, just shove a screwdriver in there and wiggle it around until the case comes loose.) 4. The cartridge case is now free, attached only by the dozen or so wires coming out the bottom. These wires are all bolted to the sides of the fuses. The reason you cannot see this is that the sides of the cartridge case are actually tiny flip-up doors -- which (of course) are snapped shut. Stick above-mentioned tiny screwdriver under plastic snaps and open the flap on each side of the case. 5. There they are! Remove one bolt from each side the the 120A fuse (or whichever fuse you need to replace). 6. Grasp the top of the fuse with needlenose pliers and pull it up & out. 7. Take said fuse down to local AutoZone (or NAPPA, etc.) and buy 1 (one) 120A cartridge fuse ($2.97). While you're there, pick up a variety of the small 7.5 - 20A fuses as well, just because it's such a waste to drive down to AutoZone for one lousy $3 fuse. 8. Order reverse in 7-1 steps repeat. Now you can find out what other fuses you blew. Don't waste your time examining every one of the small fuses. You're sure to miss one (I did). So instead, start the car and test every electrical device. Then look in your owners manual to find what fuses protect the ones not working. Each fuse protects many disparate devices. In my case the radio and rear courtesy lights did not work. Strangely enough, fuse #40 is for "Dome, rear courtesy, trunk light, & radio". WARNING! Other posts on this site warn against disconnecting anything to do with the airbags while the car battery is attached. This can cause the airbag warning light to come on and stay on until you perform a difficult and magical ritual involving a jumper wire, the rpm gauge, and a sacrificial goat. So do NOT go pulling fuses at random while the battery is attached. I don't know for a fact that this is a problem -- and I don't want to find out.

Here is the latest group to weigh in on the cell phone - distracted driving stand off. And of all things, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (the people with the crash test dummies) insist that cell phone are O.K. to use while driving.... IIHS contends cell phone bans not effective for curbing accidents By Chris Shunk RSS feed Posted Dec 18th 2011 10:02AM 27510 Comments57 It just makes sense. Cell phone usage causes accidents, so state governments and the National Transportation Safety Board should ban phone usage while driving, right? Not so, according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. CNN Money reports that studies by IIHS show that phones may not be the issue. IIHS studied crash data from states with and without the cell phone bans in place, and it determined that there has been no reduction in crash rates. IIHS spokesman Russ Rader tells CNN Money that drivers are the biggest problem, adding "focusing on phones doesn't deal with the full spectrum of things that distract." Automakers have attempted to solve the cell phone dilemma with hands-free calling and voice-activated controls, but that technology would be banned if the NTSB had its way. Phone users won't like that very much, and it's likely that many drivers would just ignore such a law and continue to utilize hands-free phone tech. Distracted driving is a tricky but important topic. There were 3,000 distracted-driving accident deaths in 2010 alone.

It's called "search". Besides, I mainly read manuals and write instructional materials for a living although most would tell you that I do no work at all. :whistles: But the beauty of it is, you have the brains to know WHERE to search... I am trying to learn how to access the information that is out there, but I am still trying to find and learn all the info that is on this site. Mostly it is a matter of not growing in business with computer aids. Nor learning the depth of background and research you've collected over your career.

Sounds like you've been busy. I found this thread for "How to" manuals on your player. Another trick people try to reset the player/changer is to remove the negative cable from the car battery for about 15 minutes. this will obviously allow all systems to go "limp" and may get the changer to un-jam when power is restored. Of course you'll have to reset your seat settings and clock and other memory functions. Good luck Posted 26 December 2008 - 03:30 PM petez, on Dec 18 2008, 04:53 PM, said: Does anyone have repair manual instructions to remove the stereo unit so I can get into my cd changer and get out a stuck CD? Try this website. they have all kinds of good info for removing radios and stereos. Have used them on all three of my vehicles http://www.carstereohelp.com/

Dear Santa, O' Omnipotent one...Is there anything you don't know?

Welcome to the LOC. Change your attitude and you'll stay welcomed. Paul

First of all Jay, Welcome to you and your wife to the LOC! We're glad your in the club and look forward to your contributions and questions. As Jim asked re; the CD changer, are their cd's in it?... will they eject? Can you put a disk in it. The reason we ask is that some of the earlier changers after about ten years or more start to act up for some reason and the changing mechanism jams a lot. But usually they will play. For the them not to play means that either the disk is not spinning, the laser reader has gone south, or the preamp/circuits are bad. If the radio works, which it must since you talk about the speaker sounding bad, then it's not the amplifier which is the amp for all units, radio,CD, & tape. If you will do a search of this board/site you should find information on taking out the dash and unit. Since you are a new member you can not yet PM (personal message) anyone yet. I will leave a note for "dcfish" the sites approved Lexus audio equipment vendor, just in case you need his expertise. I think it's after 5-10 posting, you get privileges to begin PMing other members. The Levinson speaker is a unique design in that it's impedance is other than what is normal for Car audio use. Most car audio is 4 ohms, while this particular year/model is probably 8 ohms. (don't hold me to that). If it is the speaker and not something else like a crossover, try ebay and make sure it is for the Mark Levinson. You want to enjoy the full richness of the system. Look for the struts as well while your on line or go to Sewellparts.com . This is a Lexus dealer in Dallas, TX that we have an arrangement with for LOC members. When you register, tell them your a Lexus Owner Club member and get a hefty discount on parts and accessories. For the roof and how to replace the speaker, again do a search first and see what you find. Let us know how you come out. Merry Christmas, Paul

Hello Grace!...Welcome to the LOC. Glad to have you.(ya, you betcha) couldn't help it, seeing that your from my northern neighbor! Feel free to ask questions and post helpful information anytime. Merry Christmas, Paul

Yes you can get it done outside. But again, it is not a necessary add-on! The shop that details my car every 6 months ( wax, polish, interior clean,etc, does not even recommend it as it is simply not needed. A much better use of your money is a clear protective film made by "3m" that covers the front of the hood and back of rear view mirrors that prevents rock chips, bug damage, and other road hazards from damaging the paint on these surfaces. If this dealer offers this product, don't buy it from them! There are other places that do this application and probably cheaper. I would insist on the "3m" material. In my experience with Lexus and other Lexus owners and dealer body shops, I have not seen any paint fade or blister or deteriorate that has been properly maintained. That is, kept clean by washing, Waxing once a year and keeping free of bird, bug, and other caustic materials. These are pretty basic things for any car owner to do, and the so called paint protection isn't going to ameliorate them.

The grumpy man in the Santa suit above is right. None of the products or options you list are necessary. They are simply add-ons one can purchase but will never need. For example; The Comprehensive Mechanical Breakdown. They must think your brain dead. Remember you have a full, Bumper to Bumper warranty on you new RX350. That covers everything for 50,000 miles or 48 months. Remember, everything is covered. Including roadside assistance and free loaner car during times when your car needs service. As for availability, what I would do is go on the Internet and look at different dealers around the country and call a few. Tell them what your looking for and do they have one or how long to get one. This might give you some feeling for what is out there. The dealers may be willing to sell their RX to your dealer. Good Luck. Let us know how you come out. As far as the special order to get your color, it may certainly be true. Some models are still not quite back in full production after the earthquake in Japan. So there may still be some delays in getting certain color combinations.

Thanks for the information!

Hahahaha..Bingo!! Actually that’s not a far fetched as you might think. Dealers and repair shops in this area are offering a nitrogen tire fill. They let out as much air as they can and re fill them with compressed nitrogen. Pricing ranges from $10 to $25 for 4 tires. wtf, air is mostly nitorgen anyway.. ok, just looked it up to see if it made any sense...yip..will maintain pressure longer with PURE nitrogen.. still silly, just check um more often Alright!...I've held it in for as long as I can take it...you can say what you want, but I'm not going to hide it any more. .. I...use, NITROGEN IN MY TIRES!!! There. It's out in the open. Seriously, this topic is about as much fun as which is the best gasoline to use in a ES350. No one ever agrees. For me, I like it because in my experience it does keep the proper inflation point over a longer period of time. It runs cooler than only 78% "air". I don't think it does a thing to help improve mileage, but over the 4yrs i have used it, I believe, that means it is my opinion only not scientific fact, that the tire wear has been less as well. O.K. Come on.. lets hear the cat calls. LOL

Hahahaha..Bingo!!

Save your money and give it to your local food bank. I have never heard of a power steering flush for no reason,(but that's no guarantee of accurate information) but it sure doesn't pass the smell test. As for the injectors and throttle body, as was said, if it works don't fix it. For a Lexus, 50,000 miles is not a lot of miles. The Toyota product and the Lexus line come out of different factories and the Lexus does not share all of the same parts. You can always check with a Toyota dealer for parts and service prices, but not all Toyota dealers will work on Lexus cars. Also Steven, welcome to the Lexus Owners Club. Be sure and look around and feel free to post again.

I think you need a second opinion. Don't buy the warranty. If this is your first Lexus your going to find that they are a reliable automobile. But like the writer above said, this IS a TWELVE year old car and we're talking about adding another three or four years on to that. So now, we have a 16yr. old car. Think about what the value will be of your car at that point. Maybe &1,000.00? or $1,500.00? If you keep your $1,200.00 from the warranty you've doubled the money you have left from the use of the GS. (A great Car). Additionally, things such as the cylinder block and pistons, camshafts, and cylinder heads seldom go bad under normal driving conditions. A transmission that has been serviced like the one you say yours has should only need periodic draining every 75,000 miles or so. Yes the warranty is a wonderful peace of mind for a beat up car that was never taken care of, but one like yours with all the records?.....Save your money! Paul Also Jeff, Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club! Feel free to look around and do some more posting.

Sometimes..."A mans gotta do what a mans gotta do!" ..(But next time, for your life's sake, don't do it.) LOL

Thanks for your reply LexBob2. Since you've followed all of these discussions,lol, you know then it's like the old riddle of which came first, the Chicken or the egg. Myself, I have always used Regular; 89 octane, w/10%ethanol. This blend is every where in Iowa simply because we make more ethanol than anyone else. and it is cheaper than straight regular at 87 octane. It is commonly used by our Lexus dealer. Any way, this is one of those things where everyone will believe their own data and use what they think is best. In my opinion, use what the Owners Manual says and you'll never have trouble with your warranty. Paul Merry Christmas

Thanks Jim for the excellent info. I'm going to talk to the accessories/audio manager at my dealer next week and pump him for info about when or if Lexus is going to offer WiFi and what models will get it. I'll Let you know. jgR7...Would you share how much the charges are for your Sprint phone Hot Spot service?

Just a question for my own learning curve. Would the bearings or brake drag account for the burnt rubber smell, or the "plugged pipe had blown open?"...(my wife talks that way too.) Thanks