Scott M Posted June 12, 2006 Posted June 12, 2006 I bought this so I could do a quick dry and just follow up with a Microfiber drying towel to get any drops left behind. It was $20-. I was not impressed, seems like a waste of money. It makes a horrible squeaking noise as it is dragged across the car's finish, no matter how wet the car or blade is. I should have gone with the foam blade sold at Griot's.... I don't like the Jelly Blade. I expected better results. Anyone tried the blade sold at Griot's??? http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=82187
mburnickas Posted June 12, 2006 Posted June 12, 2006 Why not use this, for example: http://www.danase.com/vistfrdr.html or a cheaper Calif Water Blade
Scott M Posted June 13, 2006 Author Posted June 13, 2006 Why not use this, for example: http://www.danase.com/vistfrdr.html or a cheaper Calif Water Blade All of the California blades have some sort of silicone blade which I personally feel is junk. I didn't care for the performance at all. As for your other suggestion, I'm no longer using anything other than a genuine microfiber drying towel. I tried one of those synthetic drying towels from Black Magic.... also pure junk!
mburnickas Posted June 13, 2006 Posted June 13, 2006 Why not use this, for example: http://www.danase.com/vistfrdr.html or a cheaper Calif Water Blade All of the California blades have some sort of silicone blade which I personally feel is junk. I didn't care for the performance at all. As for your other suggestion, I'm not longer using anything other than a genuine microfiber drying towel. I tried one of those synthetic drying towels from Black Magic.... also pure junk! yup, you can do that (a MF towel). I would use a plush one if you can (picks up more H20).
SKperformance Posted June 14, 2006 Posted June 14, 2006 Make sure you wax the blade and clean it with soap and water often to remove film and debris.
SW03ES Posted June 18, 2006 Posted June 18, 2006 I wouldn't, the chance of getting just one small cinder in there and really scratching the paint is just too high, just use waffle weave MF towels.
cardona6569 Posted July 15, 2006 Posted July 15, 2006 I bought one and it works fine. But if I had black paint I would be very careful, black paint damages easily. It helps to take the excess water off, but I would not use it versus a drying MF towel, it is just to accelerate the time it takes to dry the car. The time you save in the drying can used to do other things. Never press on it hard, use it very light over the excess water, when you get like a fine mist use the MF towel et cetera. C. PR I wouldn't, the chance of getting just one small cinder in there and really scratching the paint is just too high, just use waffle weave MF towels.
SKperformance Posted July 15, 2006 Posted July 15, 2006 The other thing to remember is the blade is used to remove90% of water then to be followed up with a microfiber towel. It takes way less time and will provide streak free results once done in addition and not to be used alone for the drying process. If it grabs your paint way too much it means you need to wax your car.
SW03ES Posted July 15, 2006 Posted July 15, 2006 Another terriffic method is to use a leaf blower to remove the majority of the water before toweling. I just bought a new electric blower for this job for $30.
dcfish Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 Another terriffic method is to use a leaf blower to remove the majority of the water before toweling. I just bought a new electric blower for this job for $30. I have used a leaf blower for years, It's great for blow drying your car. You still have to go over the car with a mf towel. Makes short work of drying the car.
SW03ES Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 Oh absolutely. The better its waxed the easier it is too, and you also don't have to spend the next hour chasing drips from the mirrors and around the trim.
dcfish Posted July 16, 2006 Posted July 16, 2006 Oh absolutely. The better its waxed the easier it is too, and you also don't have to spend the next hour chasing drips from the mirrors and around the trim.
Scott M Posted July 17, 2006 Author Posted July 17, 2006 Oh absolutely. The better its waxed the easier it is too, and you also don't have to spend the next hour chasing drips from the mirrors and around the trim. Tried the leaf blower trick this weekend for the first time. Worked pretty good!
Cherokee_Outlaw Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 I wouldn't, the chance of getting just one small cinder in there and really scratching the paint is just too high, just use waffle weave MF towels. ummm wouldnt the same small cinder in a MFT do the same thing!???
SW03ES Posted September 27, 2006 Posted September 27, 2006 No because the fibers of a towel draw particles inward, away from the paint and would have more chance of protecting against scratching than the silicone edge which can't absorb anything.
Sleepyk Posted October 3, 2006 Posted October 3, 2006 Oh absolutely. The better its waxed the easier it is too, and you also don't have to spend the next hour chasing drips from the mirrors and around the trim. Tried the leaf blower trick this weekend, and ran into some problems. Watch out if you have hard water! I was so wrapped up in getting the water out of all the crevaces (worked beautifully), that I took too long to get to the rest of the car, and it spotted pretty good. I'm going to try to dry tradionally at first then come back with the blower for the crevaces. I loved not having to come back every couple minutes to get the persistant drips. We have some incredibly hard water, so I just ordered an in-line resin-based water softener. Here's the link from the website so you can see what I'm talking about. I'll let you guys know how it works. I'm not looking for a product that'll make it so I don't have to dry, I just want one that'll give some time to dry and maybe a few more suds in my soap... http://www.pwgazette.com/softeningcartridge.htm http://www.pwgazette.com/gardenhosefilters.htm
mburnickas Posted October 4, 2006 Posted October 4, 2006 I use Ro/Di water and ONR at times. But then again my TDS are low so I do not notice much. But the website is good. Only issue is you can make the filter carts (with adp) for 50% less. And the filter online are cheaper. I can buy the sediment (5 or 10 micron) for 2.95 and carbon (5 or 10 micron) $8.95 to 9.95. I use them on my reef tank. And the resin and RO membrains are dirt cheap online. Just need to look.
SW03ES Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 Yes, you do have to be careful if you have hard water.
VBdenny Posted October 7, 2006 Posted October 7, 2006 Like SWO I use my leaf blower then towel down with a microfibre. I wash mainly at night so it doesn't dry much before I blow it dry. I have a couple CWB's around and they work great to remove most of the water but the leaf blwer is different. I bought a new blower with 315mph wind.
SKperformance Posted October 8, 2006 Posted October 8, 2006 When i use mine i found the car has to be waxed well as well as properly washed. The blade also needs to be waxed to keep it supple and slick. I then keep a microfiber towel and give a quick wipe to the blade after each stroke. It keeps it real clean and caused no scratching at all.
lexuus Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 an easy FREE way to make drying quicker (im sure many of you already know this trick) is to take all nozzles off your house until its just regular water coming out and then rinse the car like that. most of the water will just roll off making drying faster.
SW03ES Posted October 9, 2006 Posted October 9, 2006 an easy FREE way to make drying quicker (im sure many of you already know this trick) is to take all nozzles off your house until its just regular water coming out and then rinse the car like that. That works well too.
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