Foggy Headlight Fix

[Turbocoop]

I got my sc last week and the foglights and headlights werent really that bad at all. I went ahead and wet sanded them with 2000 grit, then polished them with some meguiars plastic polish, then again with some kind of "car polish" I had in my garage. They were much clearer and smooth as hell, I was waxing it and I threw some on them just for the hell of it and they are good as new now. It only took about 40 minutes total too. I have my HIDs on the way also :)

[jcmc300rx]

I have seen a couple of threads about cleaning out headlights on our cars , pretty much all that involve , removing them, baking in an oven, taking apart, cleaning, buffing , putting them back together, and reinstalling them. WAY TOO MUCH DARN WORK to clean some lenses.

I have a body shop along with all else at my shop , so for giggles i decided ( BY HAND) to take some 3M PERFECT-IT 2 and some meguires cleaner/wax and give it a go.

All i did ( BY HAND ) was get after it ( WHILE STILL ON THE CAR) with the 3m perfect-it 2 two times and then apply the meguires and I SWEAR IT LOOKS LIKE BRAND NEW!!!!! NO BUFFER AT ALL! I did BOTH headlights AND the lower turn/drive lamps in less than 30 minutes! Im going to hit it with the buffer tuesday just for that BLING effect but it really doesnt need it at all! The 3m is an AWESOME compound, only costs about 20.00 for a bottle (which will probably last you for a couple of years!) Plus you could use it for other things on the car i.e. scratches.

I couldnt see the headlight projector they were so oxidized! Now they look like Brand new! And i MEAN brand new! And to think i ALOMST spent over 300.00 last night on ebay for a new pair!

Ill post some pics tonight when i get home , somebody try it and tell me if it isnt worth the MERE 30 MINUTES to do it.

see ya guys , Joe P.

Joe:

Did u have any water or condensation in either headlight fixture?

I have a '92 SC300 and this condensation is driving me crazy.

But I like your suggestion to clean out the foggyness - I have that as well.

JC

I have seen a couple of threads about cleaning out headlights on our cars , pretty much all that involve , removing them, baking in an oven, taking apart, cleaning, buffing , putting them back together, and reinstalling them. WAY TOO MUCH DARN WORK to clean some lenses.

I have a body shop along with all else at my shop , so for giggles i decided ( BY HAND) to take some 3M PERFECT-IT 2 and some meguires cleaner/wax and give it a go.

All i did ( BY HAND ) was get after it ( WHILE STILL ON THE CAR) with the 3m perfect-it 2 two times and then apply the meguires and I SWEAR IT LOOKS LIKE BRAND NEW!!!!! NO BUFFER AT ALL! I did BOTH headlights AND the lower turn/drive lamps in less than 30 minutes! Im going to hit it with the buffer tuesday just for that BLING effect but it really doesnt need it at all! The 3m is an AWESOME compound, only costs about 20.00 for a bottle (which will probably last you for a couple of years!) Plus you could use it for other things on the car i.e. scratches.

I couldnt see the headlight projector they were so oxidized! Now they look like Brand new! And i MEAN brand new! And to think i ALOMST spent over 300.00 last night on ebay for a new pair!

Ill post some pics tonight when i get home , somebody try it and tell me if it isnt worth the MERE 30 MINUTES to do it.

see ya guys , Joe P.

[djspawn00]

This all sound great, but what if the problem is on the inside of the lights.. from water forming inside the light.

Great question. I myself can not see a little bit of my actual headlight because my driver's side lense is soaked with water on the inside. What i have read and am going to try in 2 weeks when i have free time is basically take out the headlight and spray it with something like windex or any liquid with color or soapy water, anyway, so first you completely spray the entire housing top to bottom (after removing all lights and electronics), then use a fan to blow inside the housing and look for the hole or crack that is letting in the water. A lot of SC's have this problem because it is a factory defect. Once i try it I will post some pics with hopefully good results.

I've never removed the lights on my GS, but I guess I've got to give this a try, everything looks awesome on my car except for the fogging in the lights. I hope windex won't damage that slight green tint.

[95_SC400]

This all sound great, but what if the problem is on the inside of the lights.. from water forming inside the light.

Great question. I myself can not see a little bit of my actual headlight because my driver's side lense is soaked with water on the inside. What i have read and am going to try in 2 weeks when i have free time is basically take out the headlight and spray it with something like windex or any liquid with color or soapy water, anyway, so first you completely spray the entire housing top to bottom (after removing all lights and electronics), then use a fan to blow inside the housing and look for the hole or crack that is letting in the water. A lot of SC's have this problem because it is a factory defect. Once i try it I will post some pics with hopefully good results.

I've never removed the lights on my GS, but I guess I've got to give this a try, everything looks awesome on my car except for the fogging in the lights. I hope windex won't damage that slight green tint.

Good luck doing it. Make sure you know where all the bolts are first. Once you unscrew them be careful taking out the headlights because you dont want to scratch anything. As for the tint, i don't think it would affect it, but to be on safe side maybe try soapy water with food coloring. I've also been told to try smoke instead. So maybe you might want to go that route instead. Let me know how it goes because im planning on doing my headlights next week.

[PalmerPinckney2]

Joe P.

Thanks for posting the "path of least resistance" regarding foggy headlights. I'll give it a go this weekend.

Palmer2

I have seen a couple of threads about cleaning out headlights on our cars , pretty much all that involve , removing them, baking in an oven, taking apart, cleaning, buffing , putting them back together, and reinstalling them. WAY TOO MUCH DARN WORK to clean some lenses.

I have a body shop along with all else at my shop , so for giggles i decided ( BY HAND) to take some 3M PERFECT-IT 2 and some meguires cleaner/wax and give it a go.

All i did ( BY HAND ) was get after it ( WHILE STILL ON THE CAR) with the 3m perfect-it 2 two times and then apply the meguires and I SWEAR IT LOOKS LIKE BRAND NEW!!!!! NO BUFFER AT ALL! I did BOTH headlights AND the lower turn/drive lamps in less than 30 minutes! Im going to hit it with the buffer tuesday just for that BLING effect but it really doesnt need it at all! The 3m is an AWESOME compound, only costs about 20.00 for a bottle (which will probably last you for a couple of years!) Plus you could use it for other things on the car i.e. scratches.

I couldnt see the headlight projector they were so oxidized! Now they look like Brand new! And i MEAN brand new! And to think i ALOMST spent over 300.00 last night on ebay for a new pair!

Ill post some pics tonight when i get home , somebody try it and tell me if it isnt worth the MERE 30 MINUTES to do it.

see ya guys , Joe P.

[kavvick]

93 sc400, I have the same problem, let me know your results. I'm also trying to figure out what I am going to do.

[boricua25forlyfe]

I used the 3M Rubbing Compound instead of the perfect-it 2 and waxed it afterwards when I had loaned my buffer to a buddy and it came out looking just like when I buffer it.

[Elrukin]

I have found that sandpaper is necessary in some cases but it can cause problem in others.

If your lens is scratched, pitted chipped peeling or has some obvious surface imperfection, sanding or replacement are your only options.

Depending on where you live and the invironment you drive in would have a bearing on the condition of your headlight lens.

The vast majority of headlights are not damaged in that way. Normally oxidation is the problem most of us face with thermoplastic based headlight lens. They will become opaque and can change color from white to yellow to brown.

You can sand this oxidation off but sandpaper will cut through oxidation, UV, layer and lens surface. It cannot tell the difference between them. You will damage the factory UV protective coating. Once you remove that, your exposed pourus lens will quickly turn yellow and you will never get them clear again.

Best way to go is to use a liquid deoxldizer that will only effect the oxidation. Your UV layer will be left intact and your headlights won't sustain the type of damage abarasive compounds and sandpaper can cause.

My car is 4 years old, My lens were not damaged, they were pretty smooth, however the lens had a solid coat of oxidation over them, I used Pittman's Original One Step ALR on mine, I bought it online. It cut the oxidation off the lens as I was putting it on. Took me less than 10 minutes to do the headlights taillight and marker lights. They look great. One thing to keep in mind is that oxidation returns. It does not go away forever. You will have to clean your lens again at some point in time. Once you start sanding you will have no other option but sanding or replacement when they turn yellow. Use a non abrasive acrylic lens deoxidizer.

[Elrukin]

Before and after Examples of liquid deoxidizer effects on oxidized headlight lens.

liquid deoxidizer

[howat]

I'm thinking about getting Pittman's Original One Step ALR. Can anyone verify this product? Has this worked for some and not for others? Any feedbacks is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[jerzyjim]

I have seen a couple of threads about cleaning out headlights on our cars , pretty much all that involve , removing them, baking in an oven, taking apart, cleaning, buffing , putting them back together, and reinstalling them. WAY TOO MUCH DARN WORK to clean some lenses.

I have a body shop along with all else at my shop , so for giggles i decided ( BY HAND) to take some 3M PERFECT-IT 2 and some meguires cleaner/wax and give it a go.

All i did ( BY HAND ) was get after it ( WHILE STILL ON THE CAR) with the 3m perfect-it 2 two times and then apply the meguires and I SWEAR IT LOOKS LIKE BRAND NEW!!!!! NO BUFFER AT ALL! I did BOTH headlights AND the lower turn/drive lamps in less than 30 minutes! Im going to hit it with the buffer tuesday just for that BLING effect but it really doesnt need it at all! The 3m is an AWESOME compound, only costs about 20.00 for a bottle (which will probably last you for a couple of years!) Plus you could use it for other things on the car i.e. scratches.

I couldnt see the headlight projector they were so oxidized! Now they look like Brand new! And i MEAN brand new! And to think i ALOMST spent over 300.00 last night on ebay for a new pair!

Ill post some pics tonight when i get home , somebody try it and tell me if it isnt worth the MERE 30 MINUTES to do it.

see ya guys , Joe P.

[jerzyjim]

Joe,

Fantabulous!!!! What is and where can you get 3m perfect-it 2 !!!

thanx,

jim

jerzyjimd@comcast.net

[Elrukin]

I'm thinking about getting Pittman's Original One Step ALR. Can anyone verify this product? Has this worked for some and not for others? Any feedbacks is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Heres a customer review link you can check their feedback on ebay too.

http://www.ibc34.com/CONSUMERREVIEW.html

I am pretty sure it does not fix everything. It says it does not make repairs just removes oxidation.

[mburnickas]

I'm thinking about getting Pittman's Original One Step ALR. Can anyone verify this product? Has this worked for some and not for others? Any feedbacks is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Heres a customer review link you can check their feedback on ebay too.

http://www.ibc34.com/CONSUMERREVIEW.html

I am pretty sure it does not fix everything. It says it does not make repairs just removes oxidation.

why are you still pimping this? You might want to talk to mods here.

[mburnickas]

I'm thinking about getting Pittman's Original One Step ALR. Can anyone verify this product? Has this worked for some and not for others? Any feedbacks is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Save you money. There are many threads on this very forum that have been used for a long time on how to remove scrathes & cheaper.

AKA: save you money.So far I have yet to see any forum people (here, anywhere...) use this stuff.

[Elrukin]

AKA: save you money.So far I have yet to see any forum people (here, anywhere...) use this stuff.

"Said the blind man as he bent down to pick up his video controls"

A universe could be created out of what you've yet to see.

[mburnickas]

"Said the blind man as he bent down to pick up his video controls"

A universe could be created out of what you've yet to see.

The trolling never stops on a product of lies and will be on TV soon for $19.95. They cannot pay for a real website and the "ALIEN LIQUID RESEARCH" really brings in the people!! :chairshot: :wacko:

[howat]

"Said the blind man as he bent down to pick up his video controls"

A universe could be created out of what you've yet to see.

The trolling never stops on a product of lies and will be on TV soon for $19.95. They cannot pay for a real website and the "ALIEN LIQUID RESEARCH" really brings in the people!! :chairshot::wacko:

Bought a Lens Restoration Kit at Pep Boys for $13. Comes w/ 4 sand papers, with different granularities (1000, 1500, 2000, 2500), cloth and plastic restoration solvent. Since the damage to my low beam and fog light lens weren't terrible, I only used to 2 highest grades, 2000 and 2500. Sanded , cleaned then dried the lens. Applied the solvent, with a lot of elbow grease. Now they look beautiful!

On top of that, changed out the bulbs to Sylvania SilverStar ULTRA. They look fabulous. Now to the busted cd changer....lol

I luv this forum!

Howat

[nolyaw]

I use a product called Novus. It is a 3 step process, applied by hand. It is wonderful for all plastic or plexiglass. It is available from www.denniskirk.com. With some elbow grease, it makes plastic look new.

[UCF3]

excellent suggestion everybody.

Now here's something new to discover.

water spots on windshield that do not want to come out or fill. I've applied a polish to the surface, ran it with a buffer etc. Some filled but others remain. Any solutions other than replacing the glass?

[R.Holmes]

excellent suggestion everybody.

Now here's something new to discover.

water spots on windshield that do not want to come out or fill. I've applied a polish to the surface, ran it with a buffer etc. Some filled but others remain. Any solutions other than replacing the glass?

My son is a detailer and he uses "WSR1 Bio-Clean" Water Stain Remover. Manufactured by C.R. Laurence Co. It is easy to use and gives excellent results.

[UCF3]

excellent suggestion everybody.

Now here's something new to discover.

water spots on windshield that do not want to come out or fill. I've applied a polish to the surface, ran it with a buffer etc. Some filled but others remain. Any solutions other than replacing the glass?

My son is a detailer and he uses "WSR1 Bio-Clean" Water Stain Remover. Manufactured by C.R. Laurence Co. It is easy to use and gives excellent results.

thanks, I'll look it up.

--Isn't this the same stuff as CLR?

[R.Holmes]

excellent suggestion everybody.

Now here's something new to discover.

water spots on windshield that do not want to come out or fill. I've applied a polish to the surface, ran it with a buffer etc. Some filled but others remain. Any solutions other than replacing the glass?

My son is a detailer and he uses "WSR1 Bio-Clean" Water Stain Remover. Manufactured by C.R. Laurence Co. It is easy to use and gives excellent results.

thanks, I'll look it up.

--Isn't this the same stuff as CLR?

No, this is C.R.L. It is made strickly for waterspot removal on glass. My brother-in-law's windows and windshield was as bad as it could ever get. You couldn't see out when the sun hit it or when it was raining or see at night. This stuff made the glass look like new with no waterspots left at all.

[alicias]

i don't want to burst your bubble because i'm going to try what you suggest but - people remove the headlights and do the oven treatment because the lamps leak and water gets in them. your method won't help that - unless i'm missing something.

[dlb]

This all sound great, but what if the problem is on the inside of the lights.. from water forming inside the light.

Great question. I myself can not see a little bit of my actual headlight because my driver's side lense is soaked with water on the inside. What i have read and am going to try in 2 weeks when i have free time is basically take out the headlight and spray it with something like windex or any liquid with color or soapy water, anyway, so first you completely spray the entire housing top to bottom (after removing all lights and electronics), then use a fan to blow inside the housing and look for the hole or crack that is letting in the water. A lot of SC's have this problem because it is a factory defect. Once i try it I will post some pics with hopefully good results.

Were you able to clear the water from the inside of the headlight assembly? I've got the same problem and don't know how to remove assembly, any insight you may have will be appreciated.

Thanks..dlb