R.Holmes

Go to www.toy-lex.com and try using their programming procedures for your car. I just got a new transponder and went to this site and used the programming procedure for my 2003 ES300 and it worked the first time. Maybe the procedure I sent you will only work for my year ES300. Find your car in the programming and try it. I just went to the site and looked up your car. LX470 04 Correct? It says that your key cannot be programmed. Needs to go to the dealer to have it programmed. Sorry that I couldn't help.

Go to www.toy-lex.com and try using their programming procedures for your car. I just got a new transponder and went to this site and used the programming procedure for my 2003 ES300 and it worked the first time. Maybe the procedure I sent you will only work for my year ES300. Find your car in the programming and try it.

I have instructions for deleteing programmed keys from the computer but will not send unless you need it.

Try www.ikeyless.com

I too purchased a transponder and the instructions were difficult to follow but it did work after many times trying but I got these instructions from the forum and they work perfectly. They are for toyotas and lexus and they worked for me the first time. I will list the procedure for you and hope it works 1. Simultaniously depress and release brake and accelerator 1 time 2. Insert master key, DO NOT TURN KEY 3. Depress and release accelerator 5 times 4. Depress and release brake 6 times 5. Insert new key and depress and release accelerator 1 time 6. In 80 seconds, security light goes out. Key is programmed 7. Remove new key and depress and release brake 1 time Now try the key for all fuctions. (door locks, engine starts, etc) Hope this works for you. Post your results.

I am not familiar with the IS but I think it is the same radio and CD changer that the ES 300 has. I have an 03 ES 300 with the same problem. After working with the changer,(loading and ejecting) several times until I could see the cd and got it to eject enough that I could get twezzers to get it out, I removed the radio and changer from the car. Separated the changer from the radio,(several screws separates the changer and radio). Took the cover off the changer,( 4 screws I think) and lubed the cd mechanism with litheum grease with a Q-Tip. Was very careful not to get too much. You can see the tracks or moveable parts where it was lubed from the factory. Replaced the unit and operated the cd changer several times to spread the grease a little. At first it wouldn't eject but after about 4 loads and ejects, it started to workd like it was intended. Be sure to use a cd that you don't mind destroying because when it try to ejects and does not eject, the mechanism scratches it. Hope this helps

Try www.ikeyless.com Got mine for $84.90 with shipping and I programed it myself and had local locksmith cut it for me. (Free) Got it in 3 days

I don't see why not. I just got my new key and programed it to my car and went next door and reprogrammed it to his car. Got my key from www.ikeyless.com

Try www.ikeyless.com Replacement keys are cheap and comes with programming instructions. Mine cost me $84.90 with shipping. Programed it myself and works perfectly.

Thanks Ray! Say, it looks like you have just the key I need ;) Hi guys, I had the same problem and found this site www.ikeyless.com Ordered the key for my 03 es300 and recieved it today. Programing instructions came with the key. Just programed it and it works perfectly. Programing was a cinch and easy as cutting a pie. Cost of my key was $79.95 plus $4.95 shipping. $84.90 and I have a new master or spare key. Local locksmith cut it for free. If any of you have a problem with your keys such as cracked cases or case is coming apart or worn key, you can go to any locksmith (Most any) and buy a key and have it cut and put the old transponder into the new key.

Hi guys and gals. In my last post of buying a later model ES300 (03) I was very excited but now I don't know. I am experiencing several problems that I did not expect. First the transmission is acting up, rough idle and now the cd changer will not eject the cds. Have solved the rough idle and trany is better now but the radio removal and cd changer is stumping me now. Any advice before going to the wrecking yard for some education. (Much more envolved than my 98) Still have my 98 and enjoy driving it more than the 03. You have helped me on my 98 so don'tl fail me now. THANKS

I have a '98 ES 300 and when my display went out, I bought the display and replaced it. As far as interchanging radios, I found that the '97,98,99 radios are interchangeable. 2000 and later are different. The wires can be spiced but I would not take the chance. My advice is to buy the display and change it out. Very simple to do.

Hi fellow members!! After driving my '98 ES300 for the past 3 years and keeping it running in tip-top running condition (Thanks to member support on helping with the few repairs needed) I have to say good bye to it. I just "STOLD" a 2003 ES300 with 42,000 miles, Gold in color, inside and out. Perfect condition for $14,000.00. I will be looking forward to your help when I run into problems that I need help with to keep this one running as well as the '98. Thanks again for your help in the past.

The instructions you have for the 2000 are probably the same for the 98. I also have a 98 and have replaced the radio and it is quite simple. About the check engine light that never goes out? The codes that triggered the light has to be diagnosed, corrected and reset to clear the light. Go to Auto-Zone of some place to get the codes read in order to correct the problem that is causeing the light to come on and post the codes for help. Send me a personal e-mail with the instructions you have and I will tell you if they are good. I have removed and replaced several radios in a 97,98,and 99 es300

If cleaning or replaceing the MAF,doesn't solve your problem, check for vacum leak in the vacum booster. That is where my problem was

Most of it was trial and error. With suggestions of what the problem might be from members of the forum, I just started elimenating . After getting frustrated, I sat back and re-analized what I was doing. That is when I found the problem. I bought a new booster but had a problem with the clearence adjustment between the booster and the master cyclinder (Adjustment was very tight). I returned it and had my booster rebuilt for $175. After market (new) was $190 and dealer quoted $600. Time quoted was three hrs. at $75. per. I did it in 1.5 hrs. and a half hr bleeding the brakes.Other than that. it was just time consuming. Had to remove the air cleaner and canister and master cyclinder and connections to the brake pedel. That was the hardest. (Tight fit space)

Update on my p0171 code problem: After weeks of agonizing troubleshooting to solve this agravating code, I finally solved the culprit.!!! After exausting all the suggestions recieved from fellow members and talking to mechanics (each mechanic, different solution) I found where the problem was. I sat back and analized what was going on.Checked ok(A/F,Maf. Map etc. etc.) All vacumn hoses, canister, fuel pressure checked ok. I was ready to pull my hair ( What little I have left) Most indication of the lean fuel mixture was vacumn leak somewhere. Internally or intake? I very faintly hear a hissing sound near the canister, checked it (and hoses again) all ok. Where is there a very high vacumn?? Brake booster!!!!!! Cleared the code and removed the vacumn hose to the booster. Code emmediately came on. Plugged the hose and the code was gone. (No power brakes of course!!!) Code stayed off while idleing for about an hour. Replaced the booster and have driven car for about a week and the code has not returned. Apparently I had a pin hole leak in the diafram of the booster. Just enough to trigger the code. Hopes this helps someone else with the P0171 code. PS: A stetoscope would have been helpful in detecting the leak.

Checked all hoses Ok Replaced fuel pump and filter a few months back Ran injector cleaner in two tanks of gas, even used higher octane fuel Changed MAF Engine coolant temp sensor seems to be working properly according to engine manual check out procedures Have not checked Heated Oxygen sensor. Will do that tomorrow. Thanks.

High guys, & Gals, I know this is not a new topic but I have searched the forum and read all the threads (that I could find) about the P0171 error code and tried all the fixes (?) but the code keeps coming up. This is what I have done so far Cleaned MAF, Didn't work Repalaced MAF, IAT sensor. Didn't work ( IAT is incorperated in the MAF sensor) Checked ECT sensor and it is working properly Replaced Coils, Didn't work I clear the code and Check Engine light and it stays off for about 1/2 hrs of driving and it comes back on. Can anyone offer me any more suggestions on how to solve this problem? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

There is a gasket between the coil and the body of the IACV. If you lost that gasket or broke it when removing the coil to clean it, then that is more than likely where the vacum leak. Lexus or Toyota dealer will have it. If that does not solve the problem. take another look at the hoses that you might have disconnected. It only takes a minor leak and you can very easily miss the leak. Try the gasket first.

just a couple of questions. When it starts, can you give it a little gas to keep it running? When you let off the gas, does it die? If you can do this, then my dianosis is the IAC Valve which you can clean and it will work like new.

It is lean or rich. I can't remember. Look through the other posts to confirm. It not camshaft. those are 12 & 13 I apologize for my previous post. I guess I was assuming you meant the code reader code 25. You probably meant Lexus code 25. Sorry if I missled you and misinterpreted your post. Happy Hoidays anyway

"B" Camshaft Position-Timing Over Retarded (Bank 2) Sounds like timing problem

The code is the last 4 digits of the vin# or key code. I forget :whistles: The 97,98,99 model es300 does not need the code I don't think. I have disconnected the battery and also removed the radio in my 98 and in my friends 97 when I replaced his radio with one out of a 99. We did not loose the code or have to re-enter one. Maybe if you have a different radio, you might have to re-enter the code. Be on the save side and have the code ready in case you need it.

It sounds like you have a loose connection from the radio to the antenna. Mine ('98 ES 300) did that to when I first got it. Tracked it down to the connection behind the radio. Does it cut off while sitting still? or only when you are driving, like over rough or bumped roads? The two most common connections are at the radio and the back window where the antenna is connected. I think it cuts on and off when I come to a stop or accelerate and kicks on when I make a turn. I don't think I've had it cut off when when I have been sitting still. Where is the connection in the back window and what does the connection behind the radio look like? Thanks. The antenna wire behind the radio is a single prong cable. When you remove the radio, just push all the cables in to make sure they are seated. You can't miss the antenna cable. The connection to the rear window is located behind the real seat. Look around the window to locate it. I would check the radio connection first. If you loose the connection at the rear window, you will still have the radio but with static and poor reception whereas at the radio, complete silence or very low audiable sound. Good luck and have a happy holiday!!!