nolyaw

Well, its there. My 04 4 runner does it, and so does my dads 07 camry. I dont know what to tell you. Oh, and so does my 94 SC400. Don't know.

Well,its not perfect...it works on the same principle as a remote start feature, the computer engages the starter for like .6 of a second, wether it starts or not. They all do it, I am sure it wont hurt anything. Hell, a starter is only $1200! You'll be fine.

The LS has an 'auto start' feature when the motor is stone cold. Try this: in the morning, turn the key for just a second and let go. the starter will continue on its own until the car starts. This is a featur on all new toyo's, including my 2004 4 runner.

Cobra R's, huh? They would look good on the car, but that offset needs to be about +40. Stretch it and hammer it!

I have a 1993 LS 400 and the problem I am having is some leaking coolant coming from the resevoir bottle, from the coolant level sensor that screws into the bottle. Now I sealed it up tight, but water still trickles out. What really concerns me, is that after driving any amount of time, when I go to take off the coolant cap, I never get any sort of pressure coming out. It just comes right off. Any suggestions?

In my opinion, you should find a 93 or 94 with lowest miles and best shape possible. I am personally not a fan of the 95-96 body style and the interference motor. The T- belt breaks in the car, the motor is gone. Not so in a 93-94. Alot of car for the money, a nice one can be had for 5-8 grand.

Look for a 93 or 94. MANY inprovements, you'll be much happier

I have a nice set of factory rims from my '93, which are 16"...the '92's had 15's. I'll trade ya!! The tires are about 50%. The rims are in great shape.

Its hell, trust me. Dealer gets 8 hrs labor, 1200 snaps for the labor and part....when you are in the middle of the project, you are going to wish you took it to them..hell you'll get a loaner to drive for a day.

I found an awesome product at the local autzone, its made by Black Magic. Its a 'waterless' engine clean/shine. It worked awesome! The results were pretty close to the pic of the LS above. Just spray it on and wipe it off. It gives everything the 'wet' look.

Damn, I,ve had all the above, could not have said it better myself...I've tried all the rest, I'll take a blacked out LCD over an S-class with no A/C, or a 740il with a slipping tranny anyday!

Found the problem, the hazard switch came disconnected. Once that is out of the loop, you get nothing. Go figure.

Sounds like its the flasher unit itself.... I am pretty sure all cars have them, but I am not sure of the location on the LS. I would check the owners manual to be sure. Well, if the flasher was bad, I would still have arrows on the dash, and the light lit up on the car. I have no lights, no arrows, nothing.

I have a 1993 LS, and I have no turn signals. No arrows on the dash, no clicking, nothing. No hazards either. The Hazard triangle on the button is not lit up either. The fuse is good, for both the hazards and the turn signals. I am getting 12V to ground from the fuse block. I have all of my tailights and brake lights, so I don't believe its a wiring harness issue. Any one had this problem? I tried a search and could find very little. Any input would be helpful.

I would like to go with Eibach's but I am finding that they have been 'discontinued'. Is this true?

Damn bro, paint those calipers, hubs, and rotors black. That rustiness looks awful. I want to lower my SC, but I am afraid that it will affect the ride too much, or bow the rear tires in.

First, the mirror ECU is bad, its under the steering column, very hard to find a used working one, and an extreme !Removed! to get to...so check that off of your list.The memory seats have to be programmed before they will work. Shut the door, turn the electric over in the car, adjust the seat, hold the MEM button and the '1' button in at the same time, you'll hear it beep. Make sure the car is in park and don't touch the brake when you do this. If you disconnect the battery, you'll have to do it again. You can try ebay for the remote, and hope that the remote system actually works on the car. Send you guage pack to www.lextech.com to replace the needles, it's around $250 or so. Do a search to figure out how to remove them, it's fairly simple. You should have been able to find this stuff using the search function, I did. Sounds like your problems are minor. Good Luck!

Who is R&J and how do I contact them?

Well, I talked to an audio shop, and they have done it before. They used a four channel Kicker amp, model 350.4, its $200 at crutchfield. Then they used a mono Sub amp for the subwoofer, so that the fader function could be utilized. I am expecting to pay around 5-$600 for everythin I need including labor. They assure me it can be done no problem, as they have done it before. I will keep you posted, I am planning on going after Christmas to have it done.

Does the Nak Have one amp for all speakers or a seperate one for the sub?

I have been running two aftermarket amps in my '96 SC300 for quite awhile w/o any problems. The harness connenting the stock amplifiers to the stock Pioneer radio/cd are located in the passenger side of the trunk between the CD player/amplfier and the fire wall behind the back seat ( must remove rear & side trunk liners). I located the speaker wires (five sets including the subwoofer), cut them, ran the radio side of the wires to the new amp(s) input and the speaker side of the wires to the new amp(s) output. I have a 4 channel 1600 watt amp pumping the factory speakers/tweeters plus 2 Bose 5x3's I installed in the side panels just below the rear passenger armrests. I also have a 400 watt mono amp pumping a 1200 watt 10" Sony Explode subwoofer installed where the factory sub was. I have since installed a remote volume control for my subwoofer by running RCA wires from the subwoofer amp to the remote volume control nob I installed on the shift plate in front of the stickshift & back to the subwoofer. Go to the following for a zipfile containing wiring diagrams & other pertinent info: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&id=6282 Awesome, so I can run 1 amp for the normal speakers, and I will need a seperate amp for the subwoofer. I would think that a car audio shop should be able to handle that with no issues. I want to keep the factory head unit and changer.

Lower down the plastic collar on the shifter. Believe me, it pulls down. First you have to put the shifter into N or D. When you lower the collar, you will see two gold screws. Take them out, the shifter lifts right off. You can figure the rest out from there, everything just snaps into place.

That does help. Now if I could just figure out how to replace the factory amp with an aftermarket one...

I use a product called Novus. It is a 3 step process, applied by hand. It is wonderful for all plastic or plexiglass. It is available from www.denniskirk.com. With some elbow grease, it makes plastic look new.

I have a 1994 Sc with the Nak. I have a bad amplifier under the cd changer. Has anyone had success with simply replacing the amp with an aftermarket amp and leaving the sub amp in place? Is this possible? I have no sound from my passenger door or rear deck, the sub works okay. Also I can't seem to find out what the speaker sizes are for the car. Any info would be GREAT.