TexasLexus94 Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 I'm stuffed trying to remove the 2 bolts that hold the frame that holds the calipers and pads on the front brakes. The calipers and pads assembly came off easily, but the remaining 2 frame bolts that allow me to remove the frame, and let me change the rotors won't budge. I've tried a box wrench with hammer, a vice grip, and a #17 socket with wrench. No way. I've hit the bolts with PB Blaster-nothing. It's obvious that the bolts were over-torqued with an air-wrench on a previous rotor refacing job. I don't have an impact wrench-Or as I call it-A monkey tool. Is there any way a DIY Guy can loosen the bolts without going to a shop? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbpgawest Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 TexasLexus94, two thoughts come to mind. First is get an adapter to go from 3/8" to 1/2" and use a breaker bar. Second is put the wrench back on (with the closed end) and grab the next size up wrech, take the extra wrench and the put it on the end of the other. I send a pic. if you need it. (old mechanics trick) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obergc Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Are you sure the bolts were over torqued at some point? If so probably will need a 1/2 inch breaker bar to loosen the bolt. If the bolts are corroded in place, a few raps on the head of the bolt with a hammer sometimes helps loosen a stubborn, frozen bolt. Get a good, 6 point socket to use with the 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to make sure you don't round the corners off of the bolt head. The wrenches, vice grips, etc. that you are using are probably too short to give you the leverage you need to break the torque of the bolts. Last but not least, make sure that the bolts you are trying to remove are not left hand thread bolts. I can't believe that these bolts would be left hand threads but you need to check it out. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99lsguy Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Here's some torque specs for my 99 LS............ Agree will all of the above thoughts - you need some serious leverage; even add a 1 " steel pipe to slide over the breaker bar and really get the extension out 2-3 feet. This will put some serious leverage in your favor. Keep soaking the bolt!!! comp.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jzz30 Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 all you need is 1/2 inch drive tools. it shouldnt be that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossyoak Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Shouldn't be that hard. If bolt is really frozen, the easiest way I have found is heat from a propane torch, along with liquid wrench at different time so no fire occurs. The heat goes outside the bolt on the chassis to expand the chassis threads holding the bolt. Once you use heat you will be hooked and never have another frozen bolt problem ( well almost never ). Take a propane torch and heat surrounding area being careful not to heat lines etc. Does not take much to loosen, 10-30 seconds. Use a 6 point socket with an extender of some kind like a pipe 12 inches or so that fits over the socket wrench handel. A 3/8 should work if you dont have a 1/2 type. But really, these bolts should not be that hard to take off no matter what. Ferd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tansupplyman Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 WATCH HEAT !!! Caliper has rubber seals,etc. Also be careful on reinstallation, easy to cross-thread these--new ones are NOT AVAILABLE in the very fine thread at large nut-bolt houses--maybe at Lexus!!! Don't ask how I know this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasLexus94 Posted June 25, 2004 Author Share Posted June 25, 2004 Thanks, LOC members. Problem solved. Breaker bar was the answer, although it took a ton of pressure-near head shearing time on one of the bolts. So one rotor replacement took a week, and the other-45 minutes. Knowledge is a wonderful thing. One thought-the old rotors were refaced at 50,000, 90,000, 94,000 and after I bought the car at 99,000 miles. The problem was that no one at the dealer, or myself, thought to simply replace the rotors. A jerky stop motion started at 90,000 miles, and was never solved-until now. Pity the previous owner-He paid for a brake job at a Lexus dealer 3 times. They charged 4-1/2 hours labor per job-plus parts. I paid for one turn of the rotors at $45 bucks (I replaced the pads), found it didn't do the trick, bought 2 new rotors for $100 bucks, bought a $10 buck breaker bar-problem solved. Your input is greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dole2000 Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 went through that hell last weekend. I bought a 1/2 breaker bar at Sears that was a ratchet with a pivoting head. I used a little heat, and liquid wrench. Didn't heat it to much but sprayed the liquid wrench while it was hot. Let it sit awhile and repeated the process. It wasn't to bad after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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