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By rxmangriff · Posted
This afternoon I received the new replacement switch. I removed the existing switch and brought both inside from the cold to play with them. My intent was to compare each using my multimeter for a simple resistance test using the ohms setting. The old switch was all over the place with it's reading. I expected a steady result but the readout would not give a steady number. Up and down nonstop. Totally different than the replacement which provided steady results. This I do not understand?? Something electronic inside the switch? I installed the new switch. I had to remove the plastic cover beside the driver seat on the post to unattach a keeper on the wiring as I couldn't pull the connector out enough to snap it in place. Easy install otherwise. I put everything back together. The interior lighting seems to work full pop and not inconsistent as previously. When I started prior to removing the original switch I unlocked the door which once again set off the alarm. When I finished I locked and unlocked it only 2 times without setting off the alarm. I had my battery maintainer installed so I just left it on for overnight. I only like to do one potential conflict at a time in order to judge which does what. I'll give this a go for a while and monitor the alarm situation and the interior lighting situation after I unplug the maintainer and drive a bit and see if the battery will now stay charged. Fingers crossed. Once I'm happy I will attempt to explore inside the old switch to see what makes it function. -
Hi, Jennifer. Have you contacted Lexus Customer Service? 1 (800) 255-3987 -
I just asked our local dealership and he said Lexus releases the previous year update at the end of the current year. So 2023 will be available at the end of 2024. They also want $375 for the update! -
With mine I never lost any settings. Most cars dont lose anything that the owner can't easilt reset but if you are worried about it use a 12 volt supply that plugs into the cigarette lighter or USB Port to keep power to the ECU when you disconnect the battery. Use a smart trickle chrger like a NOCO. Mine goes into standby when the battery is fully charged, kicks back on when needed, then cuts off again. You can leave a NOCO 750 milliamp to 2 amp hooked up full time to take care of the battery. My Nocos even have seperate settings for flooded lead, AGM and lithium batteries. -
By Natty Bumppo · Posted
Thank you Dean2 Great information, lots to read. So I without issue I can connect the tender to the battery while the battery is in the car with the + and - cables connected. I would close the hood when the tender is on since my car has a hood open sensor that shows a hood open red light on the dash cluster. Q- When you were doing the volt - amp testing with the - cable disconnected and 12v gone from ECU what did you do to restore the computer settings after reconnecting the ground? I have done that amp draw testing on cars that are not so high tech but I am hesitant to do that amp draw testing on this car since the 12v will be gone and I am concerned about how to return all the settings. Have a good day Peter
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