mburnickas

Sludge is not a problem in any model year ES if the owner changed the oil at least every 6 months or 5,000 miles. The 2004 on up models have a "maintenance required" warning light that comes on every 5,000 miles. ← Hate to tell you, but a little light you can hold the reset down pretty easy. Just like the MB ones and the GM ones. No such thing as “maintenance required”. I never go by them personally.

where can u get the lil bulbs at? ← bulbs are online. Do a search on this forum.

I think the 99 is like my 98. Use pry it open on the end. Also my car I did not need to do anything. Just put the new batt's in and that was it.

Do you know of any chain type auto parts store that carries rubber brake hose / fuel hose / heater hose in METRIC inside and outside diameters? I don't. Toyota owners interested in a a precise, lasting, quality fit need to use metric hoses. I'd love to know of a retail outlet that carrys metric brake hose / fuel hose / heater hose ← Please make it stop. :D :D :D They use metric since that is there measuring standard. We (USA) I think are the only morons that still use english units. The rest of the world is in metric. The have crimped ends do they not? Let me know if there is a need to buy metric hoses and maybe I will see. So far the delta in sizes is so small, it is a joke. I get the same thing with a small # of Kubota people since my Kubota is made in Japan. So far the USA hyd hoses, air filter, hyd couplings work BETTER then the OEM stuff. This is from my dealer since I am not the only one with poor quality hoses and couplings from the factory.

So you want me to leave a cracked brake line on my car? Or better yet, you want me to leave a cracked brake hose on my car for 25 - 40 years and endanger my family because I am too lazy to fix it? Ya sure. I bet 1000 to 1 they are not designed by Toyota to even last that long. Any engineer will tell you that. Back in the 80's (through today) all overseas motorcycle started every 4 years for ALL hoses (rad and brakes). Even cars are like 4 years I think on rad hoses but people go long to save $30. Even my Kubota is 4 years on ALL hoses. 25 - 40 years...you kill me.

I still think you are messing in an area that will do more harm then good. You are adding something to the internal components are not to withstand. You can stay it will burn off and this and that, but when it burns off it still LEAVES something. It is like having ash in your oil. When the oil burns off it leaves behind compounds and this will cause your wear numbers to increase. Most people and techs will not test their oil; so they will not see it. So they think everything is 100% fine. If you test you will see the increased wear numbers in Lead, Cupper, Alumim, Tin etc. That I can guarantee. All the good stuff in the oil (whatever you use, not naming brands since it is not important) ;such as alkylated diphenylamines (antioxidants), hindered phenols (antioxidants), boron esters, concentrated calcium, zinc antioxidant/AW additive, phosphorus, MOLY, organic barium compounds, magnesium etc etc are going to have to work overtime since it things this fluid is bad, which it is. I still think IF you tested the oil AFTER installing seaform in the oil, your oil would thicken, OXD and NOX would be very high (over 30% to 40% each), wear numbers very very high, TBN very low and soot and solids well you get the picture. I know what I have seen using gas additives in, now you want to add a cleaning compound to your engines lubricating system. Again this is my slanted whacked take. Not stepping on Toysrme toes here.

] you are right on the HB saw for like $55. The problem I say when I needed one was slow shipping and high shipping. the great thing I think about the $88 is after you are done, you toss it out unless you need it. In the end, you are still making out MUCH cheaper then any tile guy will post in writting.

Let me look online. I am guessing those cutters are way up there in price. Mabe someone will loan you a saw. I know HD can cut 5 tiles for free I think.

Why is it “every 6 months or 5,000 miles”??? That is not per the manual. Also sludge can build up in a well maintained engine. All it takes is heat and some cheap oil. If they were so good why did Toyota back down on there drains on the following design? I like Toyota but they have there problems just like everyone else. All the info I have seen Toyota messed up there design on the 1MZ engine and they can't state it. But they sent out letters and posted comments on their website pretty quick.

My slanted pitch is you have nothing to even worry about. You are doing drains so soon (really to soon) that you should have nothing to worry about. Sludge is due to oil duration (by heat etc) and the oil you stated are some of the best you can have and resist it the most. Hell I am doing 4X your drains and I do not have anything wrong. A cheaper way to see if you have sludge is by doing a cheap oil test. Just look at some key areas. If the tests came back bad, then I would have a look at the valves covers etc. If not, you will save $80. I think you are out of the 8 year deal since you have a 1997 Es.

I would go to HD and get there cheapest wet saw for tile. It is like $88 and would work just fine. I did two rooms and cut tile down to about 1 inches since the blades is not sharp and granite scraps I had. For $88 thrash it when done. The u-shpped you will just make several cuts and snap the pieces out. The wall plate will cover it. I would just make severl cuts real close & then will just snap right off. This is what I did for my floor hot air ducks and worked perfect.

So now all the people with 1997 to 2001 EGR issues are due to there fault and not design????? I think not, do a search on this forum and see how many owners have issues. More issues then you can count. Also my car was CPO and the thorttle body and ivac were a joke. I only had the car 30K miles and it got that bad. Monarch come on. It is gummed up by design here; if it was not, they would not have came out with a product to clean there mistake.Even there own cleaner does not agree with there own manual. Even Toysrme has posted on these issues time and time again. The guy is not wrong here. Then the endless sludge debate. I also disagree on it since it was/is not the owners fault . If it was not they would not have sent letters to all the owners of these years and redesigned some areas on the engine.Even the letters are so general it goes against there own manual, yet again. Case in point the engineers should have seen this coming if they were as good as always state.

I think you are playing with fire adding it to the oil.

Again adds work but the user much follow the directions. If you overfil them, install them to often, etc they will cause more harm them good. If you use them as outline there should bbe not problem. I did not use an adds in my gsxr since this year and it always had a slight hesitation. Installed some gas add, and it was gone. The things that I have found is the when you add adds to your gas there is a good chance they will show up if you test your oil.

Does not matter. Some engineer at Lexus/Toyota signed off on it and took responsibilty and it reflects their qulaity. So much for keep standards high. Just like the EGR, Ivac and throttle body gumming up issue. Or the sludge issue right that is not an issue by design, sure.

← I agree but my 98 did not use additives etc before I got it. I can show you Lexus slips since I need a new EGR put on the very next year since the engine has issues in this area. Just do a search and you can find out. Also if Lexus designed my engine correctly there would be no issues with plugged Ivac, TB and intakes now would there......there would be no slow to accel, rough idel, low mpg..... I can show you the new shirt I used to clean my TB and ivac after 80K miles. Yea, it looked realy clean. You could have used it to clean up tar and it would be the same color. Here you go: http://home.comcast.net/~94gsxr1100/lexus/tb_clean.jpg Additives have there places and they do work. I had to replace my Radio LCd screen too. I wonder if the engineers where on a ITO break or something when the signoff came around. All cars have issues. My wifes last Toyota had 200K and the 3rd owner just sold it. But what you do not know is all the $$$ it too get to that point. And that was maintained at the dealer and the dipstick still had varnish on it and leaked from 80K miles on....

Well, I'm not calling people who use this product dummies, but if you wish to, I won't stop you. It's very different from flushing. You're diluting the oil with a solvent (unlike flushing where you drain the oil and replace it with new oil). That means that the viscosity drops by at least a grade, maybe 2. You're going to have much less protection than if you use the factory recommendations. Look at the increased maintenance requirements for severe usage conditions. You're basically worse off then even that. ← I agree it will clean everything great. But I can just see it now, high Lb, Cu, Tn, etc. If you want to do the seafoam I would do it then drain the oil, ASAP. Or autoRx and call it a day.

I am sure it would clean but I would like to see an oil test. Since I am guessing your wear numbers would go through the roof!

you are not going to make 6 figures as an engineer; Very un-likely. Out of school right now is like 45 to 50K to start. Then add your yearly raises; avg 2 to 5. That is why we all laugh at work. If I knew then what I know now...."you can make money as an engineer" ...LOL

Good to know but is it only for people that claim it on insurance? Run VIN at body shop?

GMI (link below). I know some kids that go there since they are interns. I know people that have gone to both schools here in MA. Most college are the same proce per year; around $35K If you are more hands on I would select MIT. They are both good schools but I think they are overstated because of the names. Then again I know people without degrees and will blow people with degrees out of the water too. http://www.kettering.edu/ These kids get about $13 per hour as interns where I work. That does not include the free housing and a car. PLus when they get out they start pretty darn high in pay, big time.

true but an engineer will not be doing cad that much. It is more a designer function. Engineers do more paper work, big time. I am not being an a$$, but I have done both job functions within the aerospace field. It is a catch 22. Designers does not require a 4 year degree (some places) and designers jobs are going bye bye (at least for us). Most are job to India, Poland and other palces. Now the eng part, my CAD usuage went down to like 10% and my meetings are like 65% of my day. Going to vendors, other aerospace builders/contractors, looking up common parts, spec's etc ar ethe rest. But you will get paid more. I still HATE, yes hate my meetings for the end of the job. It is with gov people, other companies, vp's, etc. Talk about dodging bullets. About 45 people asking you anything and everything. The gov people are the who who say yes or no. Plus the "computer drawings" are going bye bye. Most are models that go to SLA; then if that works goes to castings & hogouts (there are other ways too) . Problem with CAD is anyone can design a part on a CAD tool. Making, able to, in real life and it having good repeatability, manufacturability, servicablity, keeping price down, lead times etc is a different story. Not trying to be an a$$, but I would spend some did with an engineer since most do the same job function and see if you like it. I went to school for 9 years and I would hate to have paid $30K a year for a major that I did not like.

MIT is a VERY hard school to get into. Unless your SAT scores are like 100%, I would apply to a few others. I know GMI is pretty good.

It was my understanding the Es has a lifttime fuel filter.

Done. Pretty easy! Some things to remember or FYI 1) The radio removal PDF is pretty good! Follow it. For me the bottom plastic part was more of a pain then the top AC. The top part just "prys" out while the bottom has to stop long clips on the side. 2) Be sure to put shirts or anything over plastic since it does scratch. I used shirts by shifter and the blue painters paint tape of all other parts. I DID scratch some since I think you can't avoid it. The radion and metal frame is a tight fit. 3) I removed the radio in 25 minutes. When taking off radio plate face plate be careful. There are plastic slips on 3 of the 4 sides. 4) Putting the new LCD in is easy. The wire harness can be a little pain just pull easy. 5) AFTER installing new LCD make sure the screen is clean. I had little white plastic flakes on mine AFTER I installed the radio in the car (SUCKED) . So I had to remove it again since the dirty LCD was driving me crazy. So removed again and cleaned. :D 6) it is easy total time was 54 minues for 2 removals. First one was 37 minutes. It is very easy. Any questions ask!