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mburnickas

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Everything posted by mburnickas

  1. That is my point. I know my parents own cars (for business, along with in-laws) and the benefits are not that great per say. To me, it is like the medical on income taxes (which most waste there time with unless you mean the min #). Hmm, so I should have taken an interest only mortgage to save money? Sure, I would saved money, monthly payment but own ZERO in XX years. To me, interest mortgages are like leases and renting. You have nothing to show for them. I though before like you posted, I would be here less then 10. Going on 6 years and my 15 year mortgage (now 9) is 100X better then an interest only. I own something…… From the people I know, many people HAVE to select Interest only mortgages to afford there homes, not by choice. They do this just to get in the door. I would take a mortgage over a interest only any day. Sure the payback in 5 years (if you take a 30 or 40 year mortgage) is small, but something is better then nothing. Plus you can take the interest off your taxes, just like interest only mortgages; but, you something to at least show for it at the end, unlike the other. It is a catch 22. If you drive nowhere, want to have a new car every few years and can deduct it from taxes with a lease (same with buying), a lease is for you. But for me, I do not want to worry about how many miles I drive a day/year so I do not get screwed, any dents etc that cost more $$$$, take it to stealership for service, then buying is far better. Then again when my car loan is done, I at least own the car. When you lease (when up), you have nothing to show if you do not buy. Walk in hand in the keys and all your payments are zero. Leasing is renting in my eyes. PLus I know leasing makes the dealers more $$$, not buyers. To close, everything has pros/cons in life and you (the end user) has to do all the homework on what you can, really can "write off" and what benefits you (pay or otherwise). :)
  2. I agree Sw. The only issues with a write off is that you will need to work your business petty well to see the “write off”. Another words for example, If someone signed up to sell Tuperware and sold $100 to write off a $13,000 bill is not going to cut it. Unless a corporation is paying for it, most will not see it I feel. But they are pitfalls to leases and positive things; like anything in life. As you stated, the biggest things is that you like to get a new car every XX years and my feeling is people do not like to work on your car; then a lease is for you (great in fact). I state that since I believe (not 100%) you need to take the car to a dealer for service. If not, a lease will screw you in the end same with a interest only home. Interest only home loans is great for people that think there house is going to be worth MORE in 2 to 5 years or can’t afford it any other way. Based on the current market, you are going to lose money since the market is falling or slowing; which it should. My wife had a lease and got taken for a ride, so I told her to never lease a car again. Too many stipulations on leases (for what we do).
  3. i agree. When I bought my new diesel truck it was 31K. the payments where 664.87 for 5 years (to buy). Paid in 2 years, I would just kick up the payments and buy. But if you do not like "older" cars and get a new one every few. Lease is for you.
  4. Since I am pro oil analysis, I would say spend the $20 for a test or maybe pull the cover and see what is up. 100 to 1 it is nothing since I had the same thing on my 98; slight, very slight brown crud on my oil fill cap and lots of carbon on my baffle. It was due to heat the engine puts out and other engine variables. If you have carbon / sludge you will see the elevated areas on the tests. Or just clean the EGR and replace the PCV and hope it does not come back. Up to you and let us know what happens.
  5. The stuff you have just needs to be cleaned and the items you could use is in the link I posted on. I had the oil cap desposits and carbon and they are now gone; just like the carbon in the fill hole. I would not worry about it since it is normal. Just clean it out and keep driving.
  6. This has been covered many times, do a search. Nothing new with toyo engines here. Also the dealer (with your service is using dino oil). This hard material is carbon and dinos do that (nature of dinos). It also is very hard to remove with other fluids (not engine oil). So far, I like using Lc20 to remove carbon, varnish etc from my engine. Plus the more heat the better LC20 works. Here is what I posted on. (one for example). http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...opic=29485&st=0
  7. Sparkplug gaping only work on non-Iridium spark plugs (gapped at manufacture). At least when I got my Denso ones they were warnings all over not to gap them since you will break the tips. I get my plugs from sparkplugs.com. The Lexus/Toyota online places are too high for these items.
  8. I agree, I am just trying to find the "sweat spot" in wear etc. I had a very good milage going with running just amsoil. Now using these items, it throws the sweat spot out the window. With like 90% of my wear rates going down, along with NOX and OXD, increase in TBN (very cool) I have to run more baseline tests. I did not expect these results (to this degree of decrease). I will post them later when wife and kid leave. I know I did not expect the wear to drop this much. I was just looking for a few areas to benefit, not all these :) The only letter I got looked like this. I do agree, dino is "dead" and these engines "eat" dino up. The engine does produce a lot of heat and the dino can't hold its own up to it; unless you are doing the old "money maker" oil drains (if you like that). http://home.comcast.net/%7E94gsxr1100/lexus/oil/Sludge1.pdf
  9. I agree. Just did mine (Sway bar bushings) for $14.XX (OEM parts) and took about 10 minutes. Best $$$ I spent to date!.
  10. Dino oil is anything NON synthetic. Well using LC20 and FP60 (while getting more mpg, over 1MPG), I got my test data back today.When compared to the last test (first #: 10,100 miles) and the second (drain #2: 12290 miles). This test is with 8,273 miles or 7.5 months. Anything Negitive means gone down or is what you LIKE or want. It (-) is a good thing. Iron Dropped: (-)54.54%....(-) 16% Lead:(-) 59%...(-) 10% Copper: (-)54.54%...(-)37% Tin: 0%...(-) 100%..same Alu: 0%...(-) 50%..same Nickel: 0%..0% Silicon: (-)1&...UP 29% (expect that due to RTV on valve cover) Boron: (UP) 5%...(-) 100% Sodium: (-) 100%....(-) 100% Magnesium: (UP) 2%...UP 7.8% Cal: (-) 29.2%.......UP 8.2% Phos: (-) 11.9%...(-)3.39 Zinc: (-) 8.29%...(-)6.24% Moly: 0%...0% Titanium: 0% Vanadium: 0% potassium: 0% Viscosity @ 100 C: (-) 39.9271%....(-)15.53 TBN:(-) 26.49%....(-)26.04% OXD:(-) 45.83%...(-)35% NOX:(-) 38.23%..(-)35.29% Looks like I am going to keep using it [these products]!
  11. Yes, you seafoam and then run, then dump. Then I would install some cheap dino oil and run for a few hundred miles. Then dump and install some good synthetic oil. The reason for (2) dino cheap drains is to clean the "junk" out before installing the good stuff. I would also just use a cheap filter on dino #2. Hope this helps. **PS. I know you might think I PIMP LC20 but it will help the seals if you need it.Just trying to help ya since oil is not a "one call does it all". LOL
  12. The only two products that I know of the condition the seals is AutorRx and LC20. Per oz, LC 20 is the cheapest.
  13. I think all Amsoil flush is, is Kerosene per say.
  14. This is a slightly subjective or biased statement. The oil analysis business or company does not care on what you use or purchased. They [oil analysis] are just “spitting out data” for you. What you do with it is your decision, not theirs. There main direction or job is to supply you with a service, oil analysis. Do I like adds (in general, no; but every rule has an exception) but I know what I have found out to be a good/great product. Picking up “free” MPG, cleaning the fuel and lube systems (all while cleaning and add lubricity to oil) is a good thing, with today’s gas prices.
  15. Oh in case anyone cares, I will have an oil test next week to compare to the last 3. This one is only different by using LC20. See how the numbers look.
  16. what you see is not the real valve cover. It is called a baffle inside the cover. Most times people THINK they have sludge and do not. I thought the samething till I pulled the cover...all fine. Here are some pix of mine: http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot_close.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover2.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover.jpg I would use something a little "gentle" like LC20. $11.50 for 32 oz and will work fine for a flush AND after to clean more and more crap out. It clean and keeps the engine clean, unlike most flushes that clean then get drained. LC20 does that and more. That (LC20) is what I use and there FP60. Not pimping there items but using them so far has CLEANED alot of junk out (VERY black oil), smoothed the engine bigtime and gained over 1 mpg so far (in 4 months of using). That is about 14 gallons of petro or $42 in savings (and a cleaner engine).
  17. 24.7 to 25.5 NON highway. Highway over 30 mpg Started using FP60 and Lc20 (while using Amsoil in my car). So far the over 1+ mpg is worth using these items.
  18. I like the 2007 model.I like the glass roof but for $5K+...... How can the "rear" be ugly? LOL
  19. My GSXR is no Lexus but for about 50 mpg, I will take it. Going to buy another “scoter/moped” again this year. Mine is too slow :D
  20. yup, pretty sad. Spend $35K+ and no, you do not get one. Spend $17K on an cheap GM, yup, you get one.BONG!
  21. I did the first time. Now it is nothing . I am like you and went through a lot of lube. So I bought a gallon of it! For me, the worst (car wise) is after winters here in Mass. The blue magic clay is black when done!
  22. I agree. The best OLM is on some GM cars. Honda just uses starts, miles and something else. I again agree for the price and the options, it should be standard. You can put automatic wipers but not an intelligent OLM sys…..
  23. Maybe a stuck ring or two? I like "up in smoke" the movie. LOL
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