mburnickas

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/content/1...13361460865679/

I've been reading "Fleet Trucking" and a similar long haul trucker trade magazine for 20 years and in all that time the industry has still not widely embraced synthetic oil. It's benefits, including fuel savings, have been too miniscule to offset the 3x extra cost. I know my synthetic oil is not 3X the price here as you stated. If fact, it a small amount more then Lexus oil if you get Lexus dino cheap(er) then $3.00 per qt. If you do not look around, some dealers want more for their dino oil then what I get my oil for. Figure that out…… I have not seen any MPG increase with synthetic; but I change them as soon as I pull in the driveway since new. If you have dirty ring packs etc, switching WILL clean thus increasing you mpg. But I do get 1.3 MPG more (wifes get more in her auto) using FP60 in gas and LC20 in oil. I use these items has on judgment from the owner of Dyson Analysis. Terry has major experience with engines and even has worked with many manufactures (hint hint). So far these are not “miniscule” benefits with today’s petrol prices. There is again more benefits then meets the eye or read in any trucking magazine. The only mag I take 50% away is Oil Testing mag I get one per month. It goes WAY indepth on the chemical structure of oil, fluids, testing etc. Then and only then would I email Terry at Dyson Analysis if I had a question.

http://www.consumerist.com/consumer/toyota...heel-177667.php

SW03ES- I got some Poorboys stuff intoday. Talk about 1 day shipping..unreal. I cleaned part of rear quarter with spray and wash over dirt (did not use the spray and gloss yet) then SSR1, then EX-P. WOW. Unreal the depth and smoooothness. I DID clay about 2 weeks ago (last time cleaned) so it should be good to go without another claying. I did get some Quick wash + but going to hold off on that; not enough time in the day... Going to do the complete car with this process (using my makita 9227 rotary at 1,000 rpms) then apply nasty's blue (by hand maybe) after all this. Will take some pix. So far I will say this, there products smell like bubble gum, apple and lime...cool ha :) I would do it today but I am doing a major reef cleaning on my coral tank.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808 Yup, all OEM baby!!!!!!

I would use Zaino products. It is the best stuff that I have used and you can only order online here: Zaino Read and see the results. They are real. I have actually heard people complain that it reflects too much, but that is what I like about it. There are many product there are "higher end" you need to try and see what works well for you. I just spent $150 on some items last night and some more today...I hope the wife does not find out!

Never had this issue with my old-school 98 but I know there is a way to see what is draining the battery; just can't remember. Maybe a search. I will look since I would like to know and help ya out.

No clue on the Lexus aka Toyota OEM part number BUT OEM front pads:$38.06 (to your door) OEM rear pads:$38.06 (to your door) from new lexus parts...ordered about $500 worth of them in 4 years...great service, emails, all oem stuff (Toyota parts) etc. I buy ALL my parts from them...

The broken hip has now been fixed. PT will now resume.

who would have thought..... http://www.autosupermart.com/store/shop/zymol00121.html "Life time supply"---which it should be!!!!!

I agree. The V8 in the motorized walker with 5 PT harness should have been the "key"; or the AARP is the Buzzzzzz word.“ Warning! Elderly Person On Board!” should have been a clue. :)

Dealers can do what they want. It is like anyother business out there. It is like dealers in my area all change diffferent prices on TB, water pumps etc. And the prices are HUGE in delta. But you will see an increase now or very soon on any oil product. For example since I got dragged into Walfart the other day. Mobil EP oil used to be $24.xx and are not 28 for there 5 qt judged. Every oil item in there has gone up. I do a pan removal everyother service drain 30 to 40K miles.

Another use I found for MF towels is marble and granite care. They work great on both.

So now all rotaries are bad? I do not think 1,500 rpm's is insane here. Next, you are incorrect here Sw03. Driwash is made and has instructions to be used by hand or with a machine; right on the bottle (has for years). I personally did not get "hooked" on from cars shows. I got on it from body shops and even Yankee Candle Car museum used it on there cars; Millions of $$$ in rare cars here. No protection here? Have you used it for long periods over dirt, salt etc? My car/bike etc will still bead up in the rain 8 to 10 months over 1 year on my bike/tractor after being done. Again not starting a debate but my car was bought used and the stratches where from them (original owner - and I told them when I bought it) and everytime the stealship workeded on it (3 times, they wash it and they stratch it). Last time it looked like the car was washed with sandpaper and I flipped out. I even wrote a letter to Lexus Corp on these crappy dealer and what they did. Again I can show up-to-date pix on the car, bike etc and they look mint. I also only detailed for about 5 to 6 years (second job for auto body friend) and people loved the worked. I have only started detailig since 1991/92. A rotary is nothing to be scared of if people know what they are doing (same goes for any tool). If people are scratching their cars, it is the users issue not the product. Saying this is like saying synthetic oil will harm an engine when going longer; which is incorrect. So you dislike the product, I can respect you for that. For me, it works mint but (as I say about oils too) find me a better product with no water to use (no matter the amount), can apply over road salts- dirt etc (from MA winters) protect/ shine the finish and price is same/less and I will look at it. So far, the selection is far and few. I like going on to a heated garage in -5 below F in Winters with 8 to 12" of snow and cleaning the car....Now that is fun!

Another inexpensive option is to use a 10W-40 or 20W-50 "high mileage" motor oil like Valvoline Max Life. These oil come with seal swelling additive. true but seal swelling is not the samething as conditioning the seals either. Do you want to seal it for good or us seal swelling it to seal the leak? If you need to use a 20w-50 in a Lexus you really need to re-think the oil.

Not starting a debate again, but Toyota/Lexus wants $109.95 for a dino oil change every 6 months or 5,000 miles (that I have in print in front of me). I pay 83.6% less or $91.95 less for a proven better oil (real synthetic) that will perform better in all areas ...Again not saying toyota is wrong but show me the numbers. I can make my engine run on walfart oil with low oil changes (like they do). But again based on oil tests, toyota oil will fall FAR behind a true synthetic..... Again being an engineer, most designs are based on the "bean counters", not designer/engineers. I know I want many different vendors that produce parts for the military (various planes) that are great, but the bean counters so "no" based on other items, not quality. Hint, it is based on $$$$ not quality.

I can't comment since I have not waxed a car in 15 years. Also only use a rotary buffer with Dri-wash. Something to think about. never waxed to date and still like glass! http://home.comcast.net/~burnick/car_clean/car_clean.htm http://home.comcast.net/%7Emburnickas/Bike/outside_bike.JPG I can clean and polish and clay in 1.50 hours and my bike take 25 minutes to clean/polish and wax. Not bad but you use less "corona" LOL

No clue but 100 to 1 it is price... My local stealership, opps dealerships wants $109.95 for an oil change...give me break. Nevermind the 5,000 miles they want you to come in. Also that is with DINO oil! That is why lexus is #1, but the #1 has a price and it is on your back or wallet. Dino is less the synthetic in every area. From my limited almost 13 years of doing oil testing (on my engines), synthetics are better but it comes down to 2 reasons; people do not want to pay the price or: #2 they are un-educated on the subject. The biggest area (integral to #2) is that people do not test their oil to clearly see the delta in properties. Also oil color has zero to do with it (most times). Now if you are doing 3K drains (many do), I would use dino oil. If you are doing longer drains, I would pay the price for a synthetic oil. I pay $15 for Amsoil oil (ASL) and another $3 for a filter. That is $18 for 1 year oil oil. Based on my tests, the oil is able to do this (and have). I am now using Lc20 in the oil. So far the tests are better using this. So case in point if you are doing short drains, synthetic will only help with resisting varnish and carbon and a few other areas. If going longer, synthetics will help...big time.

That is great it stopped the leak; anything is better then $$$$$$ Just thinking here maybe I would use some LC20 or AutoRC to condition the engine seals (both sides) so it stops the leak the right way? If you ever use an engine flush etc it will start to leak again if using other engine adds.

Toyota / Lexus is WAY behind in oil times. There oil WAS (ra-badged) Mobil dino but is now made by Nippon. Not starting an oil debate but I would do a search on this. There oil is your typical run of the mill dino oil.I would not use based on VOA.

I would agree test / replace is a good thing. I think here the word "test" sticks out since you can save some $$$ if you do a quick test and see what you have. Or use a OBD 2 scanner ans see what it tells you on volts and time. A scanner will also tell you spark plugs issues, fuel flows etc. That is why I bought one..I love that little red box!! LOL If they (02) are bad then replace as you stated. I guess I am just a cheap guy or like to know what I am replacing is the issue.

The best way to fix is to replace the rubber weather molding on that door side....That happens usually when someone tries to break into your car using a jimmy or coat hanger at the top of the door and then that rubber molding is disturbed and no longer holds air from coming in....Try Opening your door and you will see the rubber that the door shuts on and creates the air tight seal...Look at the area where the noise is coming from and inspect the rubber mess with it stretch it outwards and that might work temporarily...Like I said either a theft attempt or accident can cause those door seals to fail, they should hold up well for years and years.... I had the same issues with my 98 and after doing some homeowrk here, the wind noise is a common issue/problem with these year models. You can replace the $160 moldings (each, I did) and you can almost get rid of it, but not 100%. So case in point, common issue and I would save the money and try and live with it. That is why Toyota, when back to frames on there windows in like 2002 or 2003.

I was thinking about this for some odd reason (having a few long island cold ones) :) My wife is MUCH older then myself and "if" she had kid(s) in her first marriage, when either 16 to 20 she COULD have grandkids....so there!!!!!! ;)

It looks nice and it would be very nice to want or have one… For me, it is hard to justify a new 2007 car (aka payments) being it is a lateral move from my 98. Outside of more bells and whistles, nothing really stands out besides the glass roof deal and about 500 to $700 per month lease or loan payments. Not being negative but my 98 is running mint to date...knock on wood!!!! LOL

opps, ment Nesses and Nephews..Got something on my mind (non lexus related)