mburnickas

use clay lube. If you use a lot, it is cheap, you will be fine.

Weird. I could take my parts to a major Ford dealer, when I had my diesel, in the are and they would install.

DING DING........We have a winner here! I still feel this sludge issue is over blown..

Thank guys... miamistyle, do not forget CS is not a sub for proper base etc. That means, if you have marring, scrathes etc, you need to fix. I used CS over JW AJT, JW prime and CG 5050 wax. I wanted the look of a nuba but the sealing qualities. I like JW AJT/AJ but I think the nuba gives a little "kick". So the CS gives the both of both words. Oh, try time was slow since it was about 25 to 30 out.

I love clay magic. you can buy it for around $20 a bar (200g) if you lok around. I have 4 bars left..:)

Total time from start to finish was 35-minutes. ! Outside temp is 31 and with wind it is 19!!!!!! Here is the before and the car was done with JW AJ and CG 5050 wax 3 months ago. Before..washed with ONR and QD with quickshine. after ZCS..

I would do a search here on autopia....BUT I think it was like 6:1. I do not use it just going off the cuff. I use CG leather cleaner and cond.

smoke, white, is it not engine coolant getting into engine? Not good. Again, I have seen black oil have the best oil tests numbers and clean oil have worst and the other way around. Unless you are superman, do not go but how black or clean an oil is. Now it the engine oil color is white or gray, then worry.

Well engine oil gets dark. Color (black) 95% of the time means zero based on my years of testing. Not saying I am oil guru but black(er) oil is nothing to worry about. If you are concerned, do anyother oil change and it it gets darker again, and you are still worried pull a oil sample ($25). I also think Toyota, based on pictures normal short of cheap filters. A wix is better in my eyes/

True S&W does work but ONR is cheaper, leaves a slicker and more shinning surface and S&W will marr long before ONR will. I think for me the major factor is PB high prices.PB S&W is like $12 per 32 or $31 for a gallon. ONR is $30 for a gallon. I know that ONR will get at least 120 washes for the gallon. Now, I am only guessing here but based on my use of it, S&W you would be lucky to get 60 washes for a gallon. I agree with you that I would never use it on a non-prewashed car. Problem is that is the foundation of this product. For me, it goes back to the post above. If I am going to pay to pre-clean the car, just use ONR and save time and money. Did I mention a slicker and more shine surface! :) I guess I am basised now since I dislike PB S&W, EXP and nattys since I tried it. Durability, longevity etc is poor. I love there wheelcleaner for bad wheels but the 3 items above plus there new leather stuff is on my "bad" list.

I agree. I have two 32 oz bottles of Poorboys S&W and will never see them again on my car. I do what you do, wash with ONR, then ClearKote quickshine and then new and impoved will be Zaino Clear Seal! Have to try it. PS: I trust ONR more then S&W, big time.

sludge or carbon? This is PRE anything (@ 100,000 miles on car) other then Amsoil 5w-30 (ASL) and wix/Amsoil old school SDF's. I was running LC20 in another run after of Amsoil to see what it did; helped big time. If I where you, #1 why are you running 6K drains? #2, after only 6K miles I would assume oil etc is fine since that is not many miles. You could do that with a $1.20 per/qt oil and be fine. Do you have a benchmark UOA with GC alone? I AM going to do the samething as yourself; however, I am going to run 3oz using Amosil ASL (same duration too), like last time ,and see what happens. Just want to see how it does. My ES300 does have more power after using it but it took 2 apps to do so. Same with my wifes car, more power but needed 2 apps (60K miles). The mpg are still same as before. For me the power factor is a nice improvement. I know lucas UCL made it (engine) much smoother then FP60 ever did. I would recommend this, autorx product to people. If they did not want to wait (4,000 miles) or go online to buy, I would recommend some like kerosene, seafoam, B12, nautra 131 etc. ..since I have 4 gallons of 131 right here...:) I am, not sw here :) .....ARX does work and very nicely too but the way it is marketed (limited) , and other things, it will have a very hard time selling to the general public. Most users do not want to go online and read forums to see what works. They want to see it is retail stores, dealers, tv etc. Sad, but true.

I am VERY sure. Nope, no sludge in my sludge prone 1MZ blah blah blah and am doing 10 to 12K drains. Again the sludge is is WAY overblown here. There are a few pictures on this forum, but why not! LOL I even pulled the valve cover to be sure. Clean as can be! I have many more if needed. I again an not knocking any product but I still have yet to find anything in my oil filters in 5 separate gas/diesel engines runnning it or using anything in the oils or oil itself. My oil filters have nothing in them (pleats) at all and I let them drains for over 3 days each one. I might have a few little dirty items in the inner shall of the oil filter no mater what I using or not use; this is the function of an oil filter. For me, oil tests are a great thing and takes the guess work out of the equation....if people use them. What I dislike is people show dirty oil or filters with some dirt in them. I love that one. That is great but the problem is what did it look like running normal dino?

Yes there is one testing house that likes it; dyson analysis. There are no car manufactures that use it that I know: I do know (1) that tried it It is a good product but when you can ONLY buy online, I think that makes people (aka general public) think or wonder. I also think the sludge deal is WAY over blown about Lexus, .

You can go back and fourth with both and have no issues. I have used ARX in several cars (4) . Does Auto-RX work, yes. Do other fluids out there work too, yes sir (see below). Autorx for me, is one option to use and does work. For me when it comes to the pictures, the ones on RMS13 have been around for years. Try to find other pix (before and after of internals) is like pulling teeth Not being negative but saying what I see. http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post745398

The sludge issue is WAY over blown in my book. But, yes you should and lexus sends letters based on VIN numbers. If you are the 2nd etc owner, if depends on the org owner.

I agree I went over sand and salt last week. We are to get like 8 to 12 inches (of snow tonight). I do (ONR) my car every weekend. I will take pics again; it was bad last week. I was scared the first time and it (salt, sand) melts off!...weird. just like brake dust on wheels. :) I love the stuff. If they sold 5 gal pails, I would buy them! I like doing ONR, then QS then CG 5050. Works mint. Do that every 4 weeks then JW every 4 to 6 months. Best tip I can give is use a nice WW towel for ONR. I get about 4 to 5 month (40 to 50 washes; 4 diff cars ) then get a new one; Side note: I just bought 2 gallons of Lucas UCL and 4 gallons of Schaeffer Neutra 131.I love the stuff.

LOL. I have gone down to as low as 2 degrees F using ONR! Making snow outside and shorts and no shirt in the garage! I love it.

what about a fuel cleaner? Or air in tires? Or cleaning IVAC, TB, intake etc? If you have a 98 like myself, you NEED TO clean the later of the three bigtime.

easy, no, for me. I had issues with Optima, within 3 years, for free battery. I tested it and had a bad cell (below 9 volts) after load test. OPtima game me a run around. As much as I HATE Chinamart go there an buy there battery. Optima makes there batteries plus same warranty and free towing. All this for 60% less money.

I agree but 10 to 1 if he installed a plug-n-play HID kit if would be illegal and blind other drivers and have hot spots. Unless he does a retro. This is coming from a person with 2 HID kits in front of him :) I had PIAA in my old 97 Powerstroke diesel; $75 and lasted <1 year. SUCKED

I am doing 2.5X there drain interval. I feel the sludge issue is way over blown. with 5K on each oil change, you are fine.

Not to bad for 18 minutes at 27 degress this morning! Could be better but it was coated with sand and salt to start. Mixed up 1.5 gallons of 120 degree water (with 1 oz of ONR) and one bucket with 3 gallons rinse water (120 degrees). And finally all done. I was rushing since I am making the white stuff in the background! :)

I think scrub hit it on the head so to speak. Bypass filters are great but you need to do the numbers. For me, they work nice but not cost effective. Throw in a full flow filter, a bypass along with oil analysis it costs more then a complete oil change. When I had my diesel turbo (Powerstroke) from Ford, it again was more cost effective to dump the oil (Amsoil HDMAD) then do the bypass route. Like my lexus, oil analyisis is approx $20, my complete oil change is $15. Not worth the time etc.

For windshield I use only denatured alcohol. The other windows I use ClearKote Quick Shine