mburnickas

Get used to it. :whistles: :whistles: :whistles:

Thanks! I steam cleaned the carpet in the back so it was damp when I vacuumed it, causing the V-shaped marks. Both look nice!. Problem is Grey, silver and some whites most cannot understand the details(work behind it); nor do they show it. The Nissan 350Z looks wet. Try some 5050 wax on it and some ClearKote Quik Shine on her or FK425. POP baby!!!! I know my wife out love these pictures of the RX. She wants one or an SLK. I said nope, dream on. Maybe in the future..... ;) I am like you; I “enjoy detailing” and make some $$$ on the side. Problem is no time with other things to do.

yes, a few years ago.

I know what shelby does; childish to no end. Problem with him is he THINKS I am still out there. I have not posted on BITOG in months (too political); even Frank and his admins know this. Plus I have bettter things to do with my time then worry about Shelby, BITOG, oil etc and what he thinks. What makes it 100% funny is that it is not even me. He is losing it and you are right, getting old.

Had it 2 years, Customer Service sucks big time (they are in india and 99% of the time, no real person) and quality of service is just as poor. Went to Verizon voicewing and just as bad. 100% cell now.

I bought them at newlexusparts.com and I paid $14 to my door! LOL :)

I agree 100%. Many other dealerships like Ford, GM etc are about the same (around here).

I think on my 98 you just go under the TB and unscrew the 4 bolts (10 mm?). Did you put a new seal on? I have to do mine again this summmer. Great pics? Things get real dirty.

yes. what I do is suck all the old stuff out of res and just install new stuff. If it is brown means it is dead (bad).

I agree. I cleaned my TB and ivac last year. Was not that bad but bad enough to notice the delta in performance. His is bad, DAMN!!!!!

Amsoil and Mobil are very close from a drain interval. Looking at the new UOA, Amsoil has more ZDDP, Ca, higher TBN, lower Noack, low/no ash etc. What you are missing is Mobil was doing 25K in the 70's too. Also there are many users doing 10,000 miles intervals with Mobil 1 for years now. Not getting into it but I find it very hard to believe that users are going 20 to 25K (max) on a single oil change with a normal full flow filter. Are you doing UOA here; if not, you would be amazed on how the oil comes out. If will be far LESS performance then you think. If you have them, post them please. I like Amsoil but there 25K is not a real number. When I was a dealer, yes I was for years, there 25K longevity was in a lab environment and most will not "get there". Also their drain intervals are easy if you have a bypass, which I am sure some fleets have. The normal person, bypasses are not worth the extra money. There are also many other good synthetics out there. To close, I am not being a jerk etc, but what I find odd is that most oil debates are brand related this and that; 99% of these debates never seem to bring in oil tests (users posting that topic). I know many dealers of Amsoil say "25K miles to their customers; that I find too funny and incorrect. Example, if you are doing 20 to 25K using Amsoil in an ES300 from 98 to 2003 (good luck), you WILL have sludge. That being stated, I am using a blend (aka: full synthetic) in my car right now (walfart baby!) PS. I also think Lexus's stance on synthetic is only to save there behind.

IMO if you upkeep the car well, garage or not, it will look good. Hence, my wifes car looks better (and smoother) then mine and mine is in a garage. I would get some tinted windows also. $90 a month buys a lot of detail stuff.

I agree with steve here. I think if you use a good oil and change it out per the book, as steve noted, (and change PCV etc) you will not have any issues. But that is me; coming from a 98 sludge prone model with zero sludge. More sure way is to pull the valve cover and look or do an oil test. Mairella - Sludge can have more oil consumption but that is not the tell all. What am I saying is that if you have more oil consumption, do not think (BAM) you have sludge.

See below for groups. AS far as what oil type you use, it depends on driving conditions and about 10 other things. If you do normal drains, non turbo etc etc any one will be fine. At one time I would fight tooth and nail and say this and that. The more I test etc , the more I feel YOU need to see what works for you. Each driver, motor, oil, envir etc is different. This might helps: Group I Solvent Freezing Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils on the market use Group I stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications. Group II Hydroprocessing and Refining Group II base oils are common in mineral-based motor oils currently available on the market. They have fair to good performance in lubricating properties such as volatility, oxidative stability and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point, cold crank viscosity and extreme pressure wear. Group III Hydroprocessing and Refining Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of mineral oil refining of the base oil groups. Although they are not chemically engineered, they offer good performance in a wide range of attributes as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. They are commonly mixed with additives and marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic products. Group III base oil products have become more common in America during the past decade. Group IV Chemical Reactions Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks. Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) are a common example of a synthetic base stock. Synthetics, when combined with additives, offer excellent performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. They have very stable chemical compositions and highly uniform molecular chains. Group IV base oils are becoming more common in synthetic and synthetic-blend products for automotive and industrial applications. Group V As Indicated Group V base oils are used primarily in the creation of oil additives. Esters and polyolesters are both common Group V base oils used in the formulation of oil additives. Group V oils exhibit a wide variety of properties specific to each individual oil's formulation. Group V base oils are generally not used as base oils themselves, but add beneficial properties to other base oils.

Not treally. Pull the brake booster and pour in to clean TB etc. I did not ever put in gas but a few did in oil and boy, did it clean pretty good for $5.95. I know when I put in brake booster the smoke was unreal since my lexus needed a good clean. Ran 10X better when done.

I do not disagree that the chemicals in ARX can remove desposits from a penny. What I dislike about the test, I think it means nothing in terms of engines, is that how does a penny finish coralate to a gas engine deposits and sludge. Am I missing something? there is a person on this forum that loves seafoam and he know his stuff. I think seafoam can do everything ARX but 75% cheaper.

I agree. So many variables in today’s engines, a penny in a little jar does not really add a lot of value. Plus I find it really funny that these are the same people that whined and complained when (1) person said Mobil was a Group 3. Penny’s are not subjected to normal internal combustion environments, by-products etc. Plus no comment from JAG on sludge removal.. Why does it seem like people do these tests half %$##. Use ARX, and about 6 other adds/fluids. I would say seafoam or some other common engine fuels (diesel, Kero. etc) would win (aka do the same). If the tests did not show ARX the winner the post would not even be on the forum (based on past history).

I agree Mobil is over rated but Mobil is the top dog in marketing and the customers eyes. Anywhere you go they are there. Kendall is not bad but it is an average oil. I would take Havoline over it. More Moly and a better ZDDP package. That being stated, Mobil 1 (not 5000, 7500 etc) would/does excel above all three noted. Unless UOA say otherwise which you aare going and is great! For price, I would take either Havoline (moly madness bigtime) or Walmart full syn (group 3) over any and work just fine; hell of a good deal for Havoline at $1.98 qt or Walmart Full syn @ 2.75 qt . Plus either one could go 7,500 no problem. I am stepping away from Mobil and Amsoil since stopping my miles per year gone WAY done; along with other ways. Then again keep up the UOA man. That is cool and many do not do this powerful tool!

True. Thats a variable I hadn't considered, I was just looking at NOACK ratings on the amsoil site and I can see the differences. That is a good place to start. Mobil is a little higher so most users say it burns more.

Blackstone is ok but over priced. UOA is the best value for the dollar Cat is good Oil tech is a little high but fast to no end!

???? = questions. Also you do not post facts or state what you do. You use everyone else posts. I find it funny you cannot answer the simple questions I asked above. That to me tell me you are full of it, bigtime. I take a breath everyone in all my 1,363 posts. Plus I state my use and facts in my Lexus; now you on the other hand.....nope. PS. Please think about what you post, any data to support your post (YOUR FINDS on YOUR use) and maybe this thread will go somewhere. Also leave the BITOG thread babbies crying over there. Case-in-point, Synthetic oil breaks down period. If you want any oil to get way better wears number use LC20. I am sure they are other adds but this is what worked great in my car while using Amsoil ASL oil. ***EDIT**** Here was my last Amsoil test using your "junk" LC20 with your beloved Amsoil. Is Amsoil good, yes but it could be way better. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...29485&st=15 Take some metamucill, your all blocked up. Your pimping of LC20 makes me think you are a stock holder in the company or something, lol. Sythetic oil breaks down yes, more because of heat cycles and metal were as opposed to time. Adding a 20 weight solvent oil additive will not extend the life of your synthetic oil, if you can't see that is common sense than I have nothing for you. Keep on pimping your stuff it's ok, but I hope some Lexus owners see through it. Sorry but I have posted what my UOA was. You have ZERO yet again and cannot answer my simple questions.......Lc20 WILL add in the oil life, very easy to see. If you used UOA you could tell this. Are all you posts based on other people use and not yours...BONG

???? = questions. Also you do not post facts or state what you do. You use everyone else posts. I find it funny you cannot answer the simple questions I asked above. That to me tell me you are full of it, bigtime. I take a breath everyone in all my 1,363 posts. Plus I state my use and facts in my Lexus; now you on the other hand.....nope. PS. Please think about what you post, any data to support your post (YOUR FINDS on YOUR use) and maybe this thread will go somewhere. Also leave the BITOG thread babbies crying over there. Case-in-point, Synthetic oil breaks down period. If you want any oil to get way better wears number use LC20. I am sure they are other adds but this is what worked great in my car while using Amsoil ASL oil. ***EDIT**** Here was my last Amsoil test using your "junk" LC20 with your beloved Amsoil. Is Amsoil good, yes but it could be way better. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...29485&st=15

Do not feel bad. Took me forver to remember all this stuff. Optimum No Rinse = ONR Quick Easy Wash - QEW.

This has been covered many times but may be hard to search for. Bank 1 is the bank of 3 cylinders next to the firewall. Bank 2 is the bank of 3 cylinders next to the radiator. Sensor 1 is the sensor between the exhaust manifold and the cat. converter. Each bank of cylinders has its own cat. converter. Hence the 2 specific AF sensors (Bank 1-Sensor 1 and Bank 2-Sensor 1) Sensor 2 is the sensor after the cat. converter. Depending on the year, there may be one or two of these sensors. Your ES may have only 1. My 02 ES has 2 (Bank 1-Sensor 2 and Bank 2-Sensor 2). There is no Bank 3, it is a 6 cylinder not a 9 cylinder engine. steviej I know, talked about many times but I think I might even print that out! LOL

Just out of curiosity , whats your maintenace schedule? The sludging is definitely happening to some people, the only question is how long can you go between changes with dino oil and still avoid it? Perhaps secondly, why chance it at all? Just use synthetic. A lot longer then the manual :) To see how long the oil is good along with engine condition I would again spend the $15 to $20 and look at key areas. I know I push oil testing but it is cheap and a wonderful + powerful tool.