spalkin

Great job getting that done! These jobs aren't hard (timing belts, valve cover gaskets etc.) but there are some spots that can really hang you up if you don't know the ways and means. Wait 'til you try to pull the right axle extension from the trans to change out the seals. That's a fun one.

The rear valve cover is a real common source. You can tell this by smoking soon after start up. Another real good one is the rear main seal. Mine's got the same problem; a few drips overnight. Mine is definitely the rear main. To change it out is so much absolute work that it's just not worth it. Mine has about 230K on it. I've tried stop leak, but no real improvement. Like stated above, spray down the bottom of the motor with brake cleaner and see where it's coming from that way. I'll bet you'll see; rear main, and possibly some from a few of the fronts. Switching to a synthetic oil is another way to try to combat leaky seals. WHAT?!!! Are you crazy?!!! Synthetics make leaks, they don't stop them! Wrong. Synthetics will find leaks but they will clean and condition the seals as they work on them. The leaking is a sign that the oil is getting to the dried out cracked areas of the seals. As they plump up again, the leaks diminish and in some cases stop all together.

You're definitely going to want to check that one or more of your tires aren't running out of true. This is very common. On one car, they called me up to the counter while the tires were getting put on and they said, "One of your wheels is bent." What!? I went out into the garage to see and they spun it up. I pointed out that the tire was out of true. The wheel was fine. They put a different one on it. All good. If one or more of your tires isn't running true, they need to put a new one on it. That's a defective tire. It can balance perfectly but you'll never get the shimmy out of it. Get the front end on a jack and carefully and safely put it in drive and check them. The rears are tougher. If you get friend to start spinning each one by hand, you can look from the back and tell that way. Good to know before you go in there swingin'. ;)

After a drive, when the engine is cool enough to touch, slip your hand behind the rear valve cover. You're looking for oil. This is a common situation for these engines. The engine is mounted in a tilted way so the front valve cover is about horizontal and the rear one is leaned way back. After years, the valve cover seals dry out and leak. The rear sees all the leaking because it's tilted so far back. The oil is running down the back of the engine and burning as it hits the exhaust. You may not see any dripping because it's burning, plus as soon as you stop the engine, this leak stops. Changing out the VC seals is easy. Getting to the rear one is a whole production. Good luck!

They're called strut plates, the tops of the towers. They do take a lot of stress. They last a while but when they go, you'll hear about it. :D

Post a picture. It sounds like a freeze plug, though. Also, our radiators can get a bit clogged over time. That might be the slight overheating problem you have.

Too bad they don't have anything for a '95 ES.

Hey Leroy; Is that the one that has the button on the side?

You need to go to the dealership. The one thing you never do with a lexus is lose the keys. It's very, very expensive. I worked in Toyota/Lexus Parts and people would come to the cashier in tears when the bill for losing their keys was $1300. I don't know how to get out of paying a bundle of money to fix your problem. Sorry :cries: For my '95 ES, if I lose my key, or it huffs out, it's $475 plus a re-programing fee. I take good care of it.

Flanso's got it! OK saltyreefguy; here's the deal. You're not going to get that bolt off. You can get a breaker bar 20' long if you want, it won't work. The absolute easiest, best way to do it is this and you don't need anyone to help you: 1) get the right socket, preferably a six point 1/2" drive, but a twelve is fine. 2) I believe it was 6 inch extension. 3) 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, about 18 or 20 inches long. 4) get the socket on the nut fully and make it so that the breaker bar is not hanging straight down, but is swept back and it's handle area up tight against the shallow 'V' made by the lower control arm with the frame. You want that bar to be sitting up to the 'V'. an inch or so away is still OK. 5) Double check that the socket is pressed onto the bolt. 6) When you're satisfied that it's all set up, gently sit in the driver's seat, put the key in the ignition, take three long breaths, now turn the key to on position (just before start). You're getting ready to just bump the starter. 7) You want to hit that start all the way and then come right back. Don't be a wuss. Turn that key all the way and then shut it off. Bam Bam just like that. The first time I did mine, I thought, "Did anything happen?". I walked around the car and looked down to see the breaker bar hanging straight down. I grabbed the breaker bar and found that the bolt was perfectly loosened, and it was all free and perfect, ready to continue working. That's how you do it. An air wrench won't work. A breaker bar won't work. And messing around trying to hold the crank is not a good idea. There is a tool that Toyota uses to do that and it's a very simple tool, but it's a special tool so it's kind of hard to make. It has 2 pins coming out of it and it goes into the pulley and into the 2 holes in there but has a wide enough spread to allow your socket to fit between. You hold the crank still with the tool while you torque off the bolt. The starter method is great. Once you do it you'll see. That starter simply puts a tremendous force. All you have to do is hold the bolt. Good Luck! :D

I'm sorry you bought a car from someone who could actually think that you can go 10k between oil changes. I hope you got it for an appropriate price. As far as compatibility between parts and years, the best thing to do is go to a Toyota dealership (they work on a much wider variety of cars) and talk to the parts department. There are a million variables here, unless you've got exactly the right engine. Good luck! The car is definitely worth the work. (if you do it yourself) ;)

Try KYB struts. They're the same manufacturer that makes the factory shocks. The ride is a bit stiffer, but I like that. You only get the intense rebound damping versions from the stealership. Not expensive at all. Check into it.

CLICK

Nice going! Aren't you glad you didn't just say "go ahead" to the new hydraulic motor?! Those things are in a sealed environment and never go out. Whenever you check your coolant, there's no need to open the cap. Just make sure that there's 50/50 in the reservoir. It takes when it needs and puts back when it doesn't. It's a great way to make sure you're not leaking. I recently changed out my radiator (easiest thing you've ever done) because the tab that holds the hydraulic motor had put a hair-line crack in the radiator. I ordered from Outlaw Radiator (I think they're nation wide). $130 and the owner brought it over personally the next day! Here's the link CLICKY Since the replacement, it's cooling very well. Over time, these radiators do slow down.

Wow! First of all, They can get a wrench on it, and they did! I've done several of these and I use a regular, run of the mill wrench on it. That area is designed so that you can get a wrench on that to change it. If they charged you $400 to change out that sensor (part included even) they totally ripped you off. I'm really sorry that happened to you. Don't ever go there again and slam that garage to everyone you know. As tough as times are for people right now, the last thing we need are actual fellow car guys raping us in our asses. Next time you take the car into a shop and get an estimate, ask them to actually show you what needs to be done to perform the operation. Retain as much of it as possible and relay it to someone either here or that you know. We can tell you if they're being straight with you.