mburnickas

Depends; dino ATF every 15K; a syntheic can be about double that.

It "seems" like your $999 is a little high here. I paid less then that for all the item you stated (+ coolant & drive belt). Also what are front seals? That could mean a lot. i had my cam and crank seals done since it was cheap.

Every 5K, for me would be before my manuals states, waste of time with a dino, large ammounts of oil for me, and Toyota filter are nothing special and too high a price. I am doing 7,500 with dino now and going back to Amsoil since it is more cost effective, time saver etc.

http://www.zainostore.com I am a user and love the stuff. Recommend buying the starter kit. There stuff is good but most are over priced and over pimped. There are better stuff for cheaper.

I do not think it is seaform; but that is me. I have seaformed about 8 cars in about 1 year and no issues. I have run ARX on all these along with LC20 (and Fp60, Amosil PI and Neutra 131). Also there are many good oils and other adds that clean seals and swell them. Not going into oil adds or fuel adds but if you have poor ring seal how do you blame it on seafoam? Also do not expect to see much diff if you are only doing one ARX. This is based on me using the stuff. It works but so do many other oil adds. They are all solvants too (so is ARX). If not smoking all the time would it be valve seals and no rings (smoke all the time)? Also if you have a coolant leak if will be white smoke and not blue (oil) or black (fuel).

weird....my 98 can go from 104 to 95 in about a minute down here in this part.

change the belt. They are cheap.

I would not go that far. There where problems early on with the ES with overheating.

correct my 98 is the same deal. I was posting it since the way the post was, the total cap was 3.1 which is not included in the #

I know I could not live without PB spray 'n' rinse. I love that wheel cleaner. Used on Fords, Dodges, Lexus's and olds and no issues yet.

I assume that is tranny only and no diff here. Add in the diff you are at like 4 qts +/-

Consumers Reports ratings are a flat out joke. I would go over to autopia and do some reading on what works.

Just go to toyota tech, pay the $10 and download all info. Or better yet, there is a thread here (hint hint) that has the FCM.

That's a tough call, because even though you might be able to see the belt it's hard to determine whether the belt has useful life. Example: On a few of my previous cars(Honda Accord & Honda Prelude), I changed the belts at the proper replacement intervals, and they looked absolutely perfect. As they say, "Looks can be Deceiving". P.S. The engine on your ES is a non-interference engine, so even if the belt broke you wouldn't destroy it......all that would happen is the engine would just stop running. The price at the dealer more then likely makes it worth while to just replace it. It is not much.

On my 98, just did a tranny drain (with filter) and fill today (using Amsoil ATF; nothing else), I have never gotten above 4.1 qts and that is with diff drain too.

Like leather BUT not as strong as their leather scent.

There leather stuff, I think, is up there with CG if not better. I do LOVE their leather scent. I also have their fluid extractor and best thing I have bought for the car.

Could you post pictures and tell me what parts you used to create your setup? I'm interested for my own LS400. Sony- A bypass will not save you any money. Wasting your time here since the bypass and full flow filter prices are high...more then if you did normal drains. Just trying to save you money. If anyone posts UOA here that would help. So far, a bypass and changing oil before the manual states is a waste a time, money and oil. Being an engineer, I have run the matix on oils, bypasses and nope; not gonna work for a savings.

I still find it funny that people post I would not do this or that, pertaining to oil, without anything to support it. Case-in-point, I have done several 12,000+ mile drains on a sludge prone ES and Amsoil performed very well per the UOA. In my eyes, anything less then the book (using chinamart oil) is a total waste. In some cars it (Amsoil) can do over 25K; Many no. Bypasses are nice but overpriced and you will never make you money back via filter prices and testing. The other question on should I switch has been brought up like 1000 times.

I could be old school but I would wait like 30 days. Maybe the new paints are quicker to cure.

True but for me, I would rather just buy and not hope and wait to win a "killer" $20 bottle. The reg and ask any question is not a big deal. Waiting (days) to win $20 is not worth the time. Spend the money and just add the product. If I want better odds then 1 in 50 I will buy a $10 scratch ticket (every 1 in 3 wins)..LOL Again buying the product you should get your $$$ back and more. Plus you will need more then (1) bottle so just buy it; hell, you owner a Lexus people.

Do not go by oil color; it means nothing. I could show you my oil in my ES with over 12,000 miles and looks black; but tests show it is good to go MORE miles. Then I could show you oil, not as black and tests poorly.

Nothing is free here. You need to do reg (on his site) and post twice. Then, waste more time, you are put into a "pot" and see what and happens (tick tock...). Then they pick one winner to save like $20. He also is doing nothing new here; many online vendors do the samething. There is always something with Frank to get free advertising out there. I would wait, since he has "a sale" for everything known to man; more then halmark cards. I bet >60% are from BITOG and most in the add forum too. For me, if you like the product, I would just spend the $$$ and not waste time hoping and dreaming. Not knocking the product but there is more too his "free giveway" then this posts title. Plus 100 to 1 you will need more the (1) bottle too (based on using the product in several cars).

Oil gets black and you cannot tell anything by the color (if black). I have done over 12,000 drains on my es and the oil is black. I do not care since the UOA (oil tests) always came back good. The sludge issue is over blown I feel. I would use whatever oil you want and change every 5,000. Use whatever oil filter you want. If you are testing (and going longer miles), that will tell you about what filter is good, what oil is good/better etc. For that short of time, the oil type does not matter. For a flush you could use B12 Chemtool, diesel, kero, seafoam, ARX, lc20 etc.

If you get leaks with synthetic oil it WILL leak in time with dino. There is crap in your oil that the dino is acting like a fake seal. Lastly, there is NOTHING special about Toyota ATF (in there years). I change filter (seal) and install Amsoil ATF; all for about $60 and 30 minutes. It is a very very job. I also would not use any coolant. I would not use the yellow Prestone in my car. It is crap.